Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Lalibela with Family

A Journey Begins

Touching down in Lalibela felt like stepping back in time. The air was thick with anticipation, a sense of ancient secrets waiting to be discovered. This wasn't just another travel destination; it was a pilgrimage into the heart of Ethiopian history and faith. Francisca, Nilton and I were eager to explore the famed Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela, monuments to human devotion and architectural ingenuity. We knew this trip would be more than just sightseeing; it would be an immersion into a world where spirituality and history are carved into the very landscape.


Explore the Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where history and spirituality come alive in Ethiopia's stunning landscape.

Our journey from Lisbon to Addis Ababa, and then the final domestic flight to Lalibela, had been long, but the excitement kept us buoyant. As a tour guide in Lisbon, specializing in the city's African influences, I'm used to unraveling history for others. Now, I was here to experience it firsthand, with my own family, in a place that has captivated the world for centuries. I had packed my trusted travel guidebook, but I knew no book could truly prepare us for the awe-inspiring reality of Lalibela.

The first day was ambitious, but we were determined to make the most of it. Our itinerary included visits to the iconic Rock-Hewn Churches and the famed Church of St. George. I also wanted to experience the local cuisine, with planned stops at Unique Restaurant for breakfast, Ma'ed Lalibela Restaurant for lunch, and Ben Abeba for dinner. And, of course, a little souvenir shopping at Hadas Souvenirs Shop Lalibela was also on the cards.

We started our day early, fueled by anticipation and a hearty breakfast at Unique Restaurant. The injera was fresh, and the coffee, strong and aromatic, provided the perfect start to our explorations. Nilton, surprisingly, enjoyed the new tastes, a testament to his growing adventurous spirit. The restaurant was simple, but the service was warm, setting a welcoming tone for the day.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Unique Restaurant in Lalibela—where every meal tells a story of culture and tradition.

As we ventured towards the Rock-Hewn Churches, the landscape began to transform. The rugged terrain and circular-shaped dwellings hinted at the ancient marvels that lay ahead. It was clear why Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage site; the area is a living museum, with history etched into every stone and crevice. The churches are not merely buildings; they are a testament to the ambition and skill of a civilization determined to create a New Jerusalem.

The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela are more than just a collection of buildings; they are a testament to human faith and ingenuity. Carved directly into the red volcanic rock, these eleven monolithic churches stand as a symbol of devotion and architectural prowess. Commissioned by King Lalibela in the 12th century, the churches were intended to be a 'New Jerusalem' for Ethiopian Christians, a place of pilgrimage when travel to the Holy Land became dangerous.

Each church is unique, with its own distinct features and history. Some are connected by underground tunnels and trenches, adding to the mystique and wonder of the site. The precision and artistry involved in carving these structures from solid rock are simply astounding. It's a humbling experience to walk through these sacred spaces, imagining the countless hours of labor and the unwavering faith that went into their creation.

To witness these architectural marvels is to understand the power of human dedication and the enduring strength of faith.

Our first stop was Biete Medhani Alem, believed to be the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world. The sheer scale of the structure was breathtaking. As I stood at its base, looking up at the towering walls, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and reverence. The interior was just as impressive, with massive pillars and intricate carvings that spoke of a rich and vibrant history. Nilton was fascinated, running his hands along the cool stone, trying to grasp the enormity of it all. Francisca, ever the pragmatist, was marveling at the engineering feat, wondering how such a structure could have been created centuries ago with such precision.

Next, we explored Biete Mariam, perhaps the most ornately decorated of the churches. The walls were covered in vibrant frescoes, depicting biblical scenes and intricate geometric patterns. The colors were surprisingly well-preserved, giving us a glimpse into the artistic traditions of the time. The church felt intimate and sacred, a place where countless prayers had been offered over the centuries. I could almost hear the echoes of ancient chants and the whispers of long-ago pilgrims.

Navigating the labyrinthine tunnels that connect the churches was an adventure in itself. The narrow passageways were dark and damp, adding to the sense of mystery and intrigue. Nilton, ever the intrepid explorer, led the way, his laughter echoing through the tunnels. Francisca and I followed close behind, marveling at the ingenuity of the architects who had designed this subterranean network.

After a morning of exploration, we were ready for lunch. Ma'ed Lalibela Restaurant offered a welcome respite, with its traditional Ethiopian cuisine and warm hospitality. We feasted on a variety of wats (stews) and vegetarian dishes, all served on a large platter of injera. The flavors were bold and spicy, a delightful explosion of tastes that left us feeling satisfied and energized. I made sure Nilton tried a little of everything, encouraging him to embrace the local culture. Francisca, as always, appreciated the fresh ingredients and the authentic preparation.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Ma'ed Lalibela Restaurant, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

In the afternoon, we visited the Church of St. George (Biete Ghiorgis), perhaps the most iconic of all the Lalibela churches. Carved in the shape of a perfect cross, the church stands in solitary splendor, a testament to the skill and vision of its creators. As we approached the church, I was struck by its symmetry and beauty. It was as if the earth had opened up to reveal a sacred space, a place where heaven and earth meet.


Discover the stunning rock-hewn Church of St. George in Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing Ethiopia's rich cultural and religious history.

Descending into the trench that surrounds the church, we were able to appreciate its full grandeur. The walls of the trench were steep and imposing, creating a sense of enclosure and reverence. As I gazed up at the towering façade of the church, I felt a sense of awe wash over me. It was a moment of profound connection, a feeling that I was standing in the presence of something truly extraordinary.

Inside the church, the atmosphere was serene and contemplative. The light was dim, filtered through small windows high in the walls. The air was thick with the scent of incense and beeswax, a fragrant reminder of the church's long history of worship. We spent some time in quiet reflection, absorbing the peace and tranquility of the space. Nilton, usually restless, was surprisingly still, his eyes wide with wonder.

Before dinner, we stopped by Hadas Souvenirs Shop Lalibela. I was hoping to find a few unique mementos to take back home, something to remind us of our time in this magical place. The shop was filled with a variety of Ethiopian crafts, from intricately woven baskets to hand-carved wooden crosses. I picked up a small silver pendant for Francisca, a replica of the Lalibela cross, and a colorful woven bracelet for Nilton. I also couldn't resist buying a vintage postcard of Cabo Verde and a small, hand-carved wooden bird, adding to my ever-growing collection.


Discover unique Ethiopian crafts at Hadas Souvenirs Shop in Lalibela, your destination for authentic gifts and cultural treasures.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Ben Abeba, a restaurant known for its stunning views and unique architecture. Perched on a rocky outcrop just outside Lalibela, the restaurant offered panoramic vistas of the surrounding countryside. The design was quirky and imaginative, with a series of interconnected pods and walkways that created a sense of adventure and discovery. It was the perfect place to end our first day in Lalibela.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine with breathtaking views at Ben Abeba in Lalibela.

The food at Ben Abeba was a delightful fusion of Ethiopian and international flavors. We started with Scotch eggs, a nod to the restaurant's Scottish influences, followed by a traditional Ethiopian shepherd's pie. The meal was delicious, and the atmosphere was convivial, with a mix of locals and tourists all enjoying the stunning views. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and purple, I raised my glass in a toast to our adventure, grateful for the opportunity to share this incredible experience with my family.

As we walked back to our lodgings under the starlit sky, I couldn't help but reflect on the day's experiences. Lalibela had exceeded all my expectations. The rock-hewn churches were even more impressive in person than in photographs, and the local culture was warm and welcoming. I felt a deep sense of connection to this ancient place, a feeling that I would carry with me long after we left. I was also looking forward to tomorrow's itinerary, which includes visits to Bete Amanuel and Bete Golgota-Selassie, and perhaps a taste of the local tej at Torpido (Askalech) Tej House.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Bete Amanuel and Bete Golgota-Selassie, two more of Lalibela's architectural wonders. I've heard that Bete Amanuel is particularly impressive, with its intricate carvings and soaring columns. I'm also eager to see Bete Golgota-Selassie, which is said to house some of the most important religious relics in Ethiopia. In the evening, we're planning to relax at Torpido (Askalech) Tej House, a local bar known for its traditional tej (honey wine). I'm hoping to sample some of the local brews and soak up the atmosphere of this vibrant cultural hub. Francisca is particularly excited about this part of the trip, as she enjoys experiencing the local nightlife and meeting new people.

Lalibela had already cast its spell on us, and I knew that the days ahead would be filled with even more wonder and discovery. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamt of angels and kings, of ancient civilizations and unwavering faith. I was in Lalibela, and I was home.