Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Lalibela with Family

Whispers of the Past

Today in Lalibela was nothing short of extraordinary. Imagine stepping back in time, surrounded by monolithic churches carved from solid rock, each echoing with centuries of prayer and devotion. It’s a feeling that’s hard to put into words, but I’ll try my best to share the magic we experienced today.

Our day began, as most do here in Lalibela, with the call to prayer. A gentle, melodic sound that weaves its way through the town, a reminder of the deep spirituality that permeates every aspect of life here. Francisca, Nilton and I ventured out early, eager to embrace the day's itinerary.

First, we headed to Lasta Café for breakfast. This cozy spot offered a taste of local flavors, providing us with the fuel we needed for a day of exploration. The aroma of freshly brewed Ethiopian coffee filled the air, a scent that always reminds me of home, of Lisbon's own vibrant coffee culture. Sipping that first cup, I felt a surge of energy, ready to delve into the wonders that awaited us.


Discover authentic Ethiopian flavors at Lasta Café in Lalibela – where tradition meets taste in a welcoming atmosphere.

With breakfast done, we set off to explore Bete Amanuel. This church, often described as the most finely carved in Lalibela, is a true architectural marvel. As we approached, I was struck by its imposing facade, hewn directly from the reddish rock. The level of detail is astounding, with intricate carvings that mimic the style of ancient Axumite buildings. Nilton was particularly fascinated, running his small hands along the cool stone, asking endless questions about how such a structure could have been created so long ago. I tried my best to explain, drawing parallels to the historical sites we often visit in Lisbon, places where the past seems to whisper secrets to those who listen closely.


Experience the profound spiritual and architectural beauty of Bete Amanuel, a rock-hewn church that embodies Ethiopia's rich religious heritage.

Inside Bete Amanuel, the atmosphere was serene and contemplative. Sunlight streamed through the windows, illuminating the ancient walls and casting shadows that danced with the dust motes in the air. I took a moment to simply breathe, to absorb the energy of this sacred space. It’s humbling to stand in a place where countless generations have come to worship, to seek solace, and to connect with something greater than themselves.

The stones themselves are sermons, each carving a testament to unwavering faith and human ingenuity.

After spending a good amount of time at Bete Amanuel, we made our way to Bete Golgota-Selassie. This church is known for its stunning early examples of Ethiopian Christian art, including life-size depictions of the twelve apostles carved into the walls. However, it is also known for something else: women are not allowed to enter. Francisca, ever the pragmatist, took Nilton to explore the outer courtyards while I ventured inside, a sense of both privilege and unease washing over me.


Explore the stunning Bete Golgota-Selassie in Lalibela, Ethiopia, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a cornerstone of Ethiopian heritage.

The interior of Bete Golgota-Selassie is dimly lit, adding to the sense of mystery and reverence. The carvings are truly remarkable, each apostle rendered with incredible detail and expression. It's easy to see why this church is considered one of Lalibela's holiest sanctuaries. Our guide whispered stories of King Lalibela himself being buried here, his tomb a place of pilgrimage and healing. I could feel the weight of history in every corner, the echoes of ancient prayers and rituals that have resonated within these walls for centuries.

Emerging from Bete Golgota-Selassie, I rejoined Francisca and Nilton, eager to hear about their explorations. Nilton, always the observant one, had noticed a group of pilgrims chanting and praying near the entrance to Bete Maryam. He was curious about their devotion, about the rituals and beliefs that guided their lives. It was a good opportunity to talk about faith, about the different ways people connect with the divine, and about the importance of respecting all beliefs, even if we don’t fully understand them.

Lunch was at TG HomeStyle Restaurant, a local gem recommended by several fellow travelers we met yesterday. The food was delicious, hearty, and authentically Ethiopian. We shared a large platter of injera with various stews, each bite bursting with flavor. It was a welcome respite after a morning of exploration, a chance to refuel and reconnect as a family. Francisca, inspired by the local cuisine, was already making plans to recreate some of the dishes back home in Lisbon, adding her own Portuguese twist, of course.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at TG HomeStyle Restaurant in Lalibela - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy setting.

In the late afternoon, as the sun began to dip towards the horizon, we found ourselves drawn to Torpido (Askalech) Tej House, enticed by the promise of tej, a traditional honey wine. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, filled with the sounds of laughter and music. We sampled the tej, a sweet and potent brew that warmed us from the inside out. Nilton, of course, stuck to juice, but he was thoroughly entertained by the musicians and dancers who filled the small space with energy.


Discover the essence of Ethiopia at Torpido Tej House, where traditional tej, music, and dance create an unforgettable cultural experience.

For dinner, we chose Kana Restaurant and Bar, drawn by its reputation for both local and international cuisine. The restaurant offered stunning views of the valley, a perfect backdrop for our final meal of the day. As we ate, we reflected on all that we had seen and experienced, marveling at the ingenuity and faith that had created these incredible rock-hewn churches.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Kana Restaurant and Bar in Lalibela, where every dish tells a story.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves back at our lodging, tired but content. The air was cool and crisp, carrying the scent of wood smoke and incense. I sat outside for a while, strumming my guitar and singing softly, the notes mingling with the sounds of the night. It was a perfect end to a perfect day, a reminder of the beauty and wonder that exists in this world, waiting to be discovered.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Yemrehana Krestos Church, located a bit outside Lalibela, and the Lalibela Museum. I’m particularly excited about Yemrehana Krestos, as I’ve heard it’s built inside a cave, a truly unique setting. And Francisca is looking forward to browse for antiques at Abdi Negash Antique Store. I have a feeling tomorrow will bring even more unforgettable experiences.

Lalibela continues to captivate and inspire, a testament to the enduring power of faith and human creativity. I am so grateful to be sharing this journey with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime. It's moments like these that remind me why I love to travel, why I love to explore, and why I love to share my experiences with all of you.

Until tomorrow, dear readers. May your own journeys be filled with wonder and discovery.

P.S. I almost forgot to mention! I managed to find a small, unassuming guitar shop today. The owner, a kind-faced man named Tesfaye, allowed me to try out a traditional Ethiopian krar. It was a completely different experience from playing my usual guitar, but I found myself strangely drawn to its unique sound. Perhaps I’ll be adding a krar to my collection before we leave Lalibela!