Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

Echoes of the Past

Today was a day of contrasts, a fascinating blend of ancient traditions and prehistoric wonders. Leaving the serene beauty of Shirakawa-go, Hans-Peter and I ventured out to explore a reconstructed historical gate and then journeyed back millions of years at a remarkable dinosaur museum. It was a day that truly showcased the many layers of history Japan has to offer, and I'm eager to share our experiences.

Our day began, as many have here in Shirakawa-go, with a delightful breakfast at Gassho. While Gassho also operates as a souvenir shop, we were there for the food. It was a hearty and traditional Japanese breakfast that set us up perfectly for a day of exploring. I savored every bite, thinking about the long day ahead. This morning, I had the pleasure of trying their summer special, SUTETTE Tsukemen. Hans-Peter opted for a set meal. Fueled up, we set off towards our first destination: the Nezumita-mon Gate.

The journey to the Nezumita-mon Gate took us through some lovely countryside. As an archivist, I am naturally drawn to historical sites, and this gate promised a glimpse into Japan's feudal past. I was particularly excited because the Nezumita-mon Gate was recently reconstructed using materials excavated from the original site.

History is not just a collection of dates and names; it's a living narrative that connects us to those who came before.

Upon arriving, we were immediately struck by the gate's imposing presence. The Nezumita-mon Gate is the second gate of Ishikawa Gate, leading to the expansive Sanomaru Square. The gate, with its black sea rat lacquered ghoul, spans 90 meters. It once housed attendants, weapons, and food while serving as a protective wall for the castle's core. Although it's a reproduction, its old-world charm remains intact. The addition of a wooden bridge connecting it to Oyama Shrine enhances its beauty. The gate was initially destroyed in 1884, but it was recently restored in 2020.
We spent a good hour exploring the gate and its surroundings, admiring the craftsmanship and imagining what life must have been like centuries ago. It's amazing to think that workers spent two years diligently recreating this structure using schematics and even some structural materials excavated from the building's foundation. The attention to detail was remarkable. The black plaster connecting the tiles gives the gate a distinctive appearance unlike any other on the castle grounds. Hans-Peter, with his restorer's eye, was particularly impressed by the carpentry and joinery.


Explore the beautifully restored Nezumita-mon Gate in Kanazawa Castle Park, a unique historical landmark showcasing Edo-period architecture and heritage.

After immersing ourselves in feudal history, we were ready for a completely different adventure. We drove to the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum, a place I had read about and was eager to experience. The museum is located in Katsuyama City, where many ancient teeth, bones, footprints and other relics from vertebrate animals like dinosaurs have been found in Japan.

On the way, we stopped for lunch at Kita no Sho. This charming restaurant also operates as a souvenir store, making it an ideal stop for tourists looking to take home a piece of Shirakawa. Kita no Sho offers guests an opportunity to savor traditional flavors in a rustic setting that reflects the local culture. The menu features a variety of seasonal ingredients, with dishes prepared meticulously to highlight the essence of Japan's culinary heritage. I enjoyed a Hoba-yaki set meal. Hans-Peter chose a miso steak set menu.

Arriving at the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum was like stepping into another world. The museum's silver dome exhibition room is home to three zones: Dinosaur World, Earth Sciences, and History of Life. Dinosaur World is a must-see. The space is home to over 1000 different fossil collections, a larger-than-life model diorama and unforgettable imagery to share. This wide open space measures in at a whopping 84 meters long, 55 meters wide and 37.5 meters high, with 50 dinosaur skeletons poised as if in on the brink of life.

The Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum reopened in July 2023 with new facilities and revamped exhibits that include fossils, an array of complete skeletons, and even life-size robots. The museum features 50 full-sized skeletons of different dinosaur species, including 10 constructed predominantly from fossilized remains. The replicas are perfectly realistic as they have been carefully cast from fossilized specimens. There is also a display of nondestructive analysis using CT imaging. There's even an outdoor dinosaur museum where visitors can catch a close glimpse of dinosaur fossils in mid-excavation or even participate in hands on workshops.


Explore a world of dinosaurs at Japan's largest dinosaur museum in Katsuyama, Fukui – a prehistoric adventure for all ages.

I was particularly fascinated by the Fukuititan nipponensis, a dinosaur from the early Cretaceous period. It was incredible to see the scale of these creatures and to learn about their lives and extinction. I found myself wishing our grandchildren were with us to experience this. Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in the geological aspects of the museum, examining the displays of rocks and minerals with great interest. I was also excited to purchase a dinosaur-themed souvenir from the museum restaurant.

After our prehistoric adventure, we drove back towards Shirakawa-go, stopping for dinner at Masuzono Bunsuke. This restaurant embodies the essence of traditional Japanese dining, offering an array of delicious dishes that highlight the region's culinary heritage. We sat in a traditional gassho-zukuri house, enjoying the tranquil atmosphere. Masuzono Bunsuke is a river fish restaurant where you can savor iwana, amago, and rainbow trout. The fish are swimming in a tank fed by natural spring water, prepared in various cooking styles. I opted for the Masuen set meal, which let me fully enjoy the charm of fresh river fish with dishes like grilled rainbow trout, sashimi, sweet simmered fish, and small fried fish. Hans-Peter ordered the Iwana no Kotsuzake – hot sake with a whole iwana fish.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped at Kinu Yukari, a traditional silk store in the heart of Shirakawa-go. I bought a beautiful silk scarf as a memento of our trip. The shop sells silk products such as scarves, and soap mixed with silk from Shirakawa. Soap is also recommended as a souvenir from Shirakawa-go, where sericulture was popular. Kinu Yukari is closed on Saturday and Sunday.


Discover the exquisite world of silk at Kinu Yukari, a traditional silk store in the heart of Shirakawa-go, offering unique garments and cultural insights.

As we drove back to our guesthouse, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the reconstructed gate to the ancient dinosaurs, it was a day of contrasts and discoveries. It reinforced my belief that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about understanding the stories they hold. I can't help but wonder what adventures tomorrow will bring, as we are planning to visit Garyu Park and Gyokusenin Maru Garden.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of the natural beauty and artistry of this region, with visits to Garyu Park and the Gyokusenin Maru Garden. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the traditional landscaping and serene atmosphere of these gardens. But for tonight, I'm content to relax and savor the memories of a day well spent.

“The past is never dead. It's not even past.” – William Faulkner. The quote by William Faulkner encapsulates my feelings about today. The past is not just something to be studied in books; it's a living presence that shapes our present and future. Today, I felt that connection in a tangible way, walking through a reconstructed gate and marveling at the bones of creatures that roamed the earth millions of years ago. It was a powerful reminder of the vastness of time and the enduring power of history.

Good night from Shirakawa-go!