Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past: A Day on the Kumano Kodo

Today was a day of walking through history, both natural and spiritual, as Daniel and I continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. From the serene grounds of Oyunohara to the gentle slopes of Koyazaka Slope, every step felt like a conversation with the past. The blend of ancient trails and local hospitality made for a truly immersive experience, one that resonated deeply with my soul.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery [i]. I had read rave reviews about their traditional Japanese breakfast, and it did not disappoint. The cozy atmosphere, filled with locals chatting and pilgrims preparing for their day, gave the place a welcoming, communal vibe. I opted for the grilled fish set, complete with miso soup and pickled vegetables, while Daniel chose the tamago-yaki. It was the perfect fuel for our morning hike. Sipping on green tea, I felt a surge of energy, ready to embrace the day's adventures.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Our first stop was Oyunohara, the original location of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. It’s hard to imagine now, but this vast sandbank, nestled at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers, was once the heart of Kumano pilgrimage. Legend has it that the Kumano deities descended here, appearing as three moons in the branches of a giant oak tree. The shrine was moved to higher ground after a devastating flood in 1889, but the spiritual significance of Oyunohara remains palpable.

As we approached, the massive Otorii gate came into view. Standing at 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide, it’s the largest Torii gate in the world and marks the entrance to this sacred space. Passing through it felt like stepping into another world, a world where the secular and the spiritual intertwine. We wandered around the grounds, taking in the serene atmosphere. The raised earthen platform, where the original pavilions once stood, is still visible, a poignant reminder of the shrine’s former glory.

I found myself reflecting on the cyclical nature of life, the way things rise and fall, and the importance of honoring the past. It reminded me of my own journey, moving from Fresno to London, embracing new beginnings while cherishing my roots. Daniel and I spent some time in quiet contemplation, each lost in our thoughts, yet connected by the shared experience of being in this sacred place.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that take us back to the beginning.

Leaving Oyunohara, we made our way to the Koyazaka Slope, a picturesque trail that’s part of the Kumano Kodo. This section of the trail stretches from the Hirotsuno bus stop to JR Miwasaki Station, offering a gentle introduction to the Kumano Kodo for beginners. The path is well-maintained, lined with moss-covered cobblestones and lush greenery. The air was filled with the sounds of nature – birdsong, the rustling of leaves, and the gentle murmur of a nearby stream.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

As we walked, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility. The trail wound its way through the forest, offering glimpses of the Kumano-nada Sea through the trees. We passed small Jizo statues, their faces weathered by time, silently watching over the pilgrims. These statues, protectors of travelers, added to the spiritual ambiance of the trail.

Daniel, ever the history enthusiast, pointed out the remnants of whale watching spots along the way. Until the late Meiji period, this area was used to spot whales, a testament to the region’s rich maritime history. It was fascinating to imagine the whalers standing on these very slopes, scanning the horizon for their quarry.

The Koyazaka Slope is considered one of the easiest Kumano Kodo routes, which was a welcome change after some of the more challenging climbs we’ve tackled. The trail is only about 0.5km long, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll. We took our time, savoring the beauty of the surroundings and enjoying each other’s company.

For lunch, we stopped at Tororoya, a local eatery known for its healthy and delicious food. The restaurant specializes in dishes made with Yamato potato, including tororo meshi (grated yam over rice) and various side dishes. I opted for the classic tororo meshi set, while Daniel tried the pork kalbi bowl. The yam was incredibly fresh and flavorful, and the rice was perfectly cooked. It was a light yet satisfying meal, just what we needed to replenish our energy.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

After lunch, we decided to explore the Guest House & Coffee Keyaki, a charming little shop that caught my eye. It turned out to be a delightful find. Keyaki is perched on the upper end of the ridge top settlement of Takahara, offering panoramic mountain views. The guest house has a café where they serve homemade meals. While we didn’t stay overnight, we enjoyed a cup of coffee on their small deck, soaking in the breathtaking scenery. The owners were incredibly friendly, sharing stories about the area and offering tips for our hike. It felt like a true hidden gem, a place where you could escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and reconnect with nature.


Discover serenity at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki, your perfect retreat along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage in Wakayama.

For dinner, we decided to try Takehara, a restaurant known for its local tuna dishes. Located near Kii-Katsuura Station, Takehara sources its tuna directly from local fishermen, ensuring the freshest possible flavor. The interior is small and cozy, with only counter seats, creating an intimate dining experience. I ordered the tuna sashimi, while Daniel went for the grilled tuna steak. The sashimi was incredibly fresh, with a rich, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Daniel raved about his steak, saying it was perfectly cooked and seasoned. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring the Kumano Kodo, savoring the local flavors and reflecting on the spiritual echoes of the past.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

As I write this, I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure. We plan to hike the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead and explore Kumano Kodo Park. I’ve heard that the Dainichietsu trail offers stunning views and a challenging climb, while the park provides a peaceful place to relax and reflect. We’ll also be trying out Kakinoate for breakfast, Kumagoro for lunch, and Akihei for dinner. And if we have time, we might stop by Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a drink. It promises to be another day of exploration and discovery.

Before I close, I wanted to mention that I realized I forgot to pack sunscreen! It’s August, and while the weather has been mild, the sun can still be strong. I’ll definitely need to pick some up tomorrow. I am also hoping to find a portable phone charger, as I am worried about my phone running out of battery while hiking. I really need it for taking photos and navigating the trails.

Also, while walking today, Daniel and I were discussing some of the events happening in the area this month. I learned that in Nara, which is not too far from here, there are several light-up events and festivals taking place in August, including the Nara Tokae Lantern Festival and the Todai-ji Manto-Kuyo-e light-up service. There’s also the Totsukawa Odori Festival, which features traditional dancing and fireworks. It sounds like there are many cultural experiences to explore in this region of Japan.

For now, though, I’m content to rest my weary feet and dream of tomorrow’s adventures. The Kumano Kodo has a way of seeping into your soul, leaving you with a sense of peace and connection that’s hard to describe. I’m grateful for the opportunity to walk these ancient paths and experience the spiritual heartland of Japan.