Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Coastal Exploration

Today was nothing short of spectacular as Daniel and I continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. The Ohechi Pilgrimage Route offered breathtaking coastal views and a chance to reflect on the incredible journey we've undertaken. It's hard to believe that tomorrow marks the end of our pilgrimage. Each day has brought new adventures and deeper connections with the spiritual heart of Japan.

Our day began with an early start and a hearty breakfast at the Fushiogami Teahouse. This charming spot, nestled along the Kumano Kodo, was the perfect place to fuel up for the day's adventures. The warm, welcoming atmosphere and traditional Japanese teas set a serene tone for what was to come. As we sipped our tea, we chatted with some fellow travelers, sharing stories and tips about the trail. It’s these small interactions that truly enrich the experience, reminding me that we’re all connected on this journey, each seeking our own form of enlightenment. This teahouse is more than just a place to grab a drink; it's a cultural experience that allows you to reconnect with nature and appreciate the simple things in life.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

After breakfast, we set out to explore the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route - Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony. The Ohechi route is known for its stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and the unique perspective it offers on the Kumano Kodo. Unlike the more popular Nakahechi route, the Ohechi was historically traveled by ordinary people, artists, and writers seeking inspiration from the sea. As we walked, I could see why it held such appeal. The views were simply mesmerizing, with the rugged coastline stretching out before us. The trail meandered through forests and along the seashore, offering a refreshing balance of nature's beauty.


Discover the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route, a serene hiking area that blends spirituality with breathtaking natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

The journey is the destination, and every step we take brings us closer to understanding ourselves and the world around us.

The Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony itself was fascinating, a testament to the resilience and adaptability of nature. Though details about this specific colony are scarce, the Ohechi route is dotted with small shrines and historical landmarks that speak to the area's rich spiritual history. We paused at one such shrine, taking a moment to reflect on the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before us. I felt a sense of connection to the past, a reminder that we are all part of a larger story.

Next on our itinerary was the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. This dramatic cliff formation is a sight to behold, with its rugged terrain and breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. The cliffs are said to be home to various legends and folklore, adding a layer of mystique to the already stunning landscape. As we walked along the well-maintained pathways, we were treated to panoramic vistas that changed with the shifting light. The waves crashed against the rocks below, creating a symphony of sound that was both calming and invigorating.


Explore Onigajō Cliff in Kumano, Mie: A breathtaking scenic spot blending nature's beauty and rich biodiversity, perfect for tourists and adventurers.

I couldn't resist snapping photos at every viewpoint, trying to capture the sheer beauty of the place. Daniel, ever the patient husband, indulged my photographic whims, even offering suggestions for better angles and compositions. We learned that Onigajō Cliff is not only a World Heritage site but also one of the 100 most scenic spots in Japan. The intricate and bizarre shapes of the caves and cliffs, created by erosion from the rough seas and winds, truly make it a devil's castle in its own right. We spent a good couple of hours exploring the area, marveling at the dynamic beauty of nature.

For lunch, we stopped at the Watarase onsen cafe, a delightful spot that offered both nourishment and relaxation. I opted for a traditional soba noodle dish, while Daniel chose the hot udon noodles with tempura. The cafe had a cozy atmosphere, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff. It was the perfect mid-day break, allowing us to recharge before continuing our adventures. Watarase Onsen itself is known for having the largest outdoor hot spring baths in western Japan, but we decided to save that experience for another time.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

As evening approached, we made our way to Akihei for dinner. This charming restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese cuisine and elegant ambiance. Founded in 1870, Akihei offers a variety of dishes, including sukiyaki, tempura, sushi, and sashimi. We decided to try the set meal, which was reasonably priced and highly recommended. The food was exquisite, each dish a work of art. The flavors were complex and nuanced, a true celebration of Japanese cuisine. What made the experience even more special was the friendly service. The owner's wife, who is fluent in English, made us feel incredibly welcome, offering tips on local attractions and sharing stories about the area.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

After dinner, we ventured out to Why Kumano, a local bar that had been recommended to us. This cozy spot is a hostel, cafe, and bar all rolled into one. We sampled some local craft beer and sake, enjoying the laid-back atmosphere. The managers were incredibly friendly, offering a wealth of local information and making us feel right at home. It was a great way to unwind after a long day of hiking and sightseeing.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

Reflecting on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had. The Kumano Kodo has been more than just a hike; it's been a journey of self-discovery and connection. The stunning landscapes, the spiritual atmosphere, and the warm hospitality of the locals have all combined to create an unforgettable experience.

As we prepare for our final day on the Kumano Kodo, I can't help but feel a tinge of sadness that our pilgrimage is coming to an end. However, I know that the memories and lessons we've gained will stay with us long after we return to London. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship and explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route. We'll also be stopping by the Toretore Market to pick up some souvenirs before enjoying a final dinner at Kumano Winery Guest House. It promises to be a fitting end to our incredible journey.

The Kumano Kodo has truly captured my heart, and I know that I will carry its spirit with me wherever I go. It's a reminder to slow down, appreciate the beauty of nature, and connect with the deeper meaning of life. And who knows, maybe one day we'll return to walk these sacred trails again.