Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo
Day 13: Spiritual Renewal on the Kohechi Route: A Day of Pilgrimage and Onsen Bliss
Embark on a soul-soothing journey along Kumano Kodo's Kohechi Route, indulging in the therapeutic waters of Yunomine Onsen with Daniel.
Sacred Steps and Soothing Waters
Today was a day of deep reflection and physical challenge as Daniel and I continued our pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route. The ancient Kohechi Route called to us, promising both rugged trails and spiritual rejuvenation, and it certainly delivered. We ended our day soaking in the restorative waters of Yunomine Onsen, feeling cleansed in both body and soul.
Discover the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route, where ancient spirituality meets stunning natural beauty in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.
Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. This charming cafe, nestled in Chikatsuyu, was the perfect spot to fuel up before tackling the Kohechi Pilgrimage Route. I opted for their homemade bagel with a side of fresh local vegetables, while Daniel enjoyed an American-style breakfast. The cafe's cozy atmosphere and the host's warm hospitality made us feel right at home. It's amazing how a simple, well-prepared meal can set the tone for an entire day of exploration. Shino-san, the owner, was incredibly kind and even shared some tips about the trail ahead.
Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.
With our stomachs full and our spirits high, we set off on the Kohechi Route. This path, known as the most mountainous and challenging of the Kumano Kodo trails, connects Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, and the sounds of civilization faded away, replaced by the rustling of leaves and the chirping of birds. I was reminded of a quote from one of my favorite art history books:
To walk in nature is to witness a thousand miracles.
The trail was indeed steep, just as we had read. There were moments when I questioned my ability to make it to the top, but Daniel's encouragement and the stunning views kept me going. The towering cedar and cypress trees created a cathedral-like atmosphere, their branches reaching towards the sky like vaulted ceilings. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the path. Every now and then, we would pass a small Jizo statue, adorned with colorful bibs and offerings, a testament to the many pilgrims who have walked this path before us.
We paused for a rest at the Fushiogami Teahouse. This quaint teahouse, run by local women, offered a welcome respite. We sipped on hot green tea and savored some traditional Japanese sweets, chatting with fellow hikers from all over the world. It was fascinating to hear their stories and motivations for undertaking this pilgrimage. Refreshed, we continued our trek, feeling a renewed sense of purpose.
Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming cafe along the Kumano Kodo, offering authentic Japanese tea and serene surroundings.
For lunch, we had planned to stop at Hinoki Steak House. However, given our location on the trail, it proved to be logistically challenging. Instead, we enjoyed a packed lunch amidst nature. I had packed some Onigiri rice balls and a few side dishes, a simple yet satisfying meal that energized us for the rest of the hike.
Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
As the afternoon wore on, the trail began its descent, leading us towards our ultimate destination: Yunomine Onsen. The anticipation of soaking in the healing waters kept our spirits buoyed as we navigated the winding path. Finally, we arrived at the quaint village, nestled in a narrow valley. The scent of sulfur filled the air, a testament to the natural hot springs that bubble beneath the surface.
Experience the therapeutic waters of Yunomine Onsen in Wakayama, where nature and tradition meet for a rejuvenating retreat.
Yunomine Onsen is one of the oldest hot spring towns in Japan, with a history dating back 1,800 years. For centuries, pilgrims have come here to purify themselves in the hot springs before visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha. We decided to experience the Yuzutsu, a public cooking basin where the hot spring water is used to cook eggs and vegetables. We bought some fresh eggs from a local shop and carefully placed them in the boiling water. In about fifteen minutes, they were perfectly cooked, the yolks creamy and the whites firm. It was a unique and delightful culinary experience.
Next, we ventured to Tororoya for dinner. This restaurant is known for its traditional Japanese cuisine, with a focus on local ingredients. I opted for the tororo-jiru, a yam-based soup that is said to have numerous health benefits. Daniel enjoyed a hearty eel dish, a local specialty. The meal was a perfect way to end our day of hiking and onsen soaking.
Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.
As we reflect on our day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the Kumano Kodo in such a profound way. The Kohechi Route challenged us physically, but it also nourished our souls. The healing waters of Yunomine Onsen washed away our fatigue and left us feeling refreshed and renewed. Tomorrow, we will be exploring the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route and the Onigajo Cliff. I'm looking forward to discovering more of the natural beauty and spiritual significance of this incredible region.
The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the non-essential and leaving you with a deep appreciation for the simple things in life: nature, companionship, and the restorative power of tradition. It’s moments like these that remind me why Daniel and I embarked on this journey in the first place – to reconnect with ourselves, with each other, and with the world around us.
I’m so glad we remembered to pack our phrasebook, it’s been invaluable in connecting with the locals. I’m still kicking myself for forgetting the sunscreen, though! Daniel keeps reminding me I should have listened to him. I guess that’s what happens when you travel with your spouse; there’s always someone ready to say, “I told you so!”
Join us on a spiritual journey through Japan's Kumano Kodo, exploring sacred trails, ancient shrines, and stunning landscapes with my husband.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation:
Marketing Consultant
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Country:
United Kingdom
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Age:
32
Hello fellow wanderers! I'm Emily, a California girl living in London and juggling my life as a marketing consultant with my passion for travel. This blog is where I share my adventures, from weekend getaways in the English countryside to exploring far-flung corners of the globe. I love uncovering hidden gems, immersing myself in local cultures, and capturing the beauty of the world through my lens. Join me as I share practical tips, inspiring stories, and a healthy dose of wanderlust!
- Photography
- Sustainable living
- Art history
- Trying new cuisines
- Learning new languages
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