Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past

Today, Daniel and I delved deeper into the spiritual tapestry of Kumano Kodo, exploring ancient temples and serene shrines that whisper tales of centuries past. It's days like these that remind me why we embarked on this pilgrimage – to connect with history, culture, and a sense of inner peace that seems to permeate every corner of this sacred land.

Our first stop was Fudarakusan-ji, a Tendai temple with a fascinating history. It's said to have been founded by Ragyō Shōnin, a monk from India, over a thousand years ago. The temple's name comes from Mount Potalaka, the mythical dwelling place of the Buddhist bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. What struck me most was the temple's connection to the sea. Until the late 19th century, monks would embark on a practice known as 'Fudaraku Tōkai,' setting sail in small boats, essentially miniature shrines and coffins, hoping to reach Fudaraku, or Kannon's Paradise. These 'tokaisha,' or pilgrims of the sea, were entrusted to carry the prayers of the people to this mythical island.

The idea of monks setting out on what was essentially a suicide mission, fueled by faith and a desire for enlightenment, is both humbling and awe-inspiring. The temple itself is small, but it holds a replica of one of these boats, a stark reminder of the monks' devotion. The Thousand-Armed Kannon statue housed within the temple is an Important Cultural Property of Japan, a beautiful wooden sculpture dating back to the Heian period. Unfortunately, we weren't there on one of the specific dates when it is publicly displayed.


Experience serenity and spirituality at Fudarakusan-ji Temple, a hidden gem in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for cultural exploration and reflection.

The journey through Kumano Kodo is not just a hike; it's a passage through time, a dialogue with the spirits of those who walked these paths before us.

After soaking in the serene atmosphere of Fudarakusan-ji, we made our way to Tokei Shrine. This shrine, established in 419 AD, has close ties to Kumano Hongu Taisha. It is said that many imperial and aristocratic pilgrims would pay homage here, praying for safe passage into Kumano. Tokei Shrine enshrines all the kami that are enshrined in the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Hongu, Shingu and Nachi.


Experience the tranquil beauty of Tokei Shrine in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential spiritual and historical attraction for every traveler.
Tokei Shrine is also known as the birthplace of the legendary warrior monk, Musashibo Benkei. Benkei was known for his strength and loyalty, and there are many stories about him in Japanese kabuki theater. According to legend, Benkei’s father, unable to decide which side to support in the Genpei War, staged cockfights between red and white feathered birds, and sided with the clan represented by the victor. 'Tokei' even means fighting hens. There is a statue in the shrine depicting Benkei with his father and some chickens.

Exploring the shrine grounds, we found ancient camphor trees, some estimated to be 1200 years old. It's incredible to think of the history these trees have witnessed. The shrine itself has many sub-shrines scattered throughout the grounds. It was easy to imagine pilgrims of old stopping here to pray before continuing their journey, or even worshipping from afar if they couldn't make it further.

For breakfast, we started our day at Yorozuya Eatery. This hidden gem offered a magical and authentic Japanese dining experience. The staff was lovely, the food delicious, and the atmosphere welcoming. We tried the okonomiyaki made right at our table. The owner was incredibly kind. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
Lunch was at Takehara, and it was a culinary delight. We enjoyed some local specialties, immersing ourselves in the flavors of the region. For dinner, we chose Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming eatery known for its local cuisine. I tried Mehari-zushi, a type of sushi made with pickled mustard leaves. It was unique and delicious, with the tangy mustard leaves complementing the savory rice and fish. Daniel and I also enjoyed udon noodles with chicken.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
To cap off the evening, we decided to visit Kumano Club Resort for a drink. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. The resort had a relaxing atmosphere, and we enjoyed the chance to relax.


Discover the serene beauty of Kumano Club Resort, a perfect blend of Japanese hospitality and natural tranquility in Mie Prefecture.
As I write this, I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventure. We'll be tackling the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route and soaking in the Yunomine Onsen Yuzutsu. I'm especially excited about the onsen; after all this hiking, my muscles are definitely ready for a good soak! We're also planning to stop by the Fushiogami Teahouse.

This journey is about more than just seeing the sights; it's about experiencing the soul of Japan. Each temple, each shrine, each meal, and each encounter adds another layer to our understanding of this beautiful country and its rich cultural heritage. It is a journey I will never forget.

For anyone considering a similar trip, I can't recommend it enough. Just be sure to pack your hiking boots, a sense of adventure, and a willingness to embrace the unexpected. You never know what hidden gems you might discover along the way. The Kumano Kodo is waiting to share its secrets with you.