Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Day 11: A Day of Healing Waters and Ancient Echoes on the Kumano Kodo

Discover serenity on the Kumano Kodo: soak in Tsubo-yu's healing waters and reflect at Inabaneoji Shrine with my husband, Daniel.

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Whispers of the Past and Present


Today was a day of profound connection to the Kumano Kodo, a journey that blended physical rejuvenation with spiritual reflection. Daniel and I immersed ourselves in the ancient traditions of Yunomine Onsen, letting the healing waters of Tsubo-yu wash away our weariness. We also sought solace and perspective at the serene Inabaneoji Shrine, contemplating the echoes of pilgrims who walked these paths centuries before us. It was a day of simple pleasures, rich history, and shared moments that deepened our bond and appreciation for this sacred land.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

Our day began in the quaint village of Yunomine Onsen, nestled in a valley where the air was thick with the scent of sulfur. After a quick and convenient breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, we were eager to experience Tsubo-yu. This tiny bathhouse, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known as Japan's oldest hot spring, and I was excited to experience its reputed healing powers. The dining hall was charming, and it was nice to see other travelers fueling up for their day on the trails.

As we approached Tsubo-yu, I was struck by its unassuming appearance. It’s a small, stone hut beside a creek, almost hidden in plain sight. Only two people can bathe at a time, making it a very intimate experience. We purchased our tickets and waited patiently for our turn, chatting with fellow travelers about their experiences on the Kumano Kodo. The anticipation built as we learned about the water's unique ability to change color throughout the day, a phenomenon attributed to its rich mineral content.

Finally, it was our turn. Stepping into the small, stone-lined bath felt like entering a different world. The water was warm and silky, enveloping us in a comforting embrace. Daniel and I relaxed into the soothing heat, letting the minerals work their magic on our tired muscles. Knowing that emperors and monks had sought these waters for their healing qualities centuries ago added a layer of reverence to the experience.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences come in the smallest packages.


After our rejuvenating soak, we decided to explore the village a bit more. We wandered through the narrow streets, lined with traditional inns and small shops. It felt like stepping back in time, a world away from the bustling city of London. We popped into the Kumano Kodo Information Center to learn more about the history and significance of the pilgrimage route. The center offered a wealth of information, maps, and pamphlets, helping us to understand the cultural and spiritual importance of the Kumano Kodo.

Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.
Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

For lunch, we stopped at Sansaro Cafe, a charming spot known for its delicious, local cuisine. I opted for a traditional noodle dish, while Daniel tried a savory rice bowl. The cafe had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff about their lives in this remote corner of Japan.

Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

With our bellies full and our spirits lifted, we set off to visit Inabaneoji Shrine. The shrine is a short walk from Yunomine Onsen, along a path that winds through lush forests. As we walked, we were surrounded by towering trees and the sounds of nature. The air was fresh and clean, a welcome change from the city.

Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.
Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.

Inabaneoji Shrine is a small, understated Shinto site that exudes a sense of peace and reverence. We purified ourselves at the water basin before entering the main hall, offering a small prayer for continued safe travels and good health. The silence of the shrine was broken only by the gentle chirping of birds, a soothing melody that added to the tranquil atmosphere. I reflected on the countless pilgrims who had visited this shrine over the centuries, seeking guidance and solace on their journeys.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Akihei for dinner. This restaurant is known for its traditional Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality. We savored a delicious meal of fresh seafood and local vegetables, enjoying the cozy ambiance of the restaurant. The staff was incredibly friendly, making us feel like honored guests.

Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.
Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Reflecting on our day, I was struck by the profound sense of peace and connection I felt. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a spiritual journey that touches the soul. The healing waters of Tsubo-yu, the serene atmosphere of Inabaneoji Shrine, and the warm hospitality of the locals all contributed to an unforgettable experience.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji and Tokei Shrine, continuing our exploration of the spiritual heartland of Japan. I’m also intrigued by the prospect of unwinding at the Kumano Club Resort bar after a day of exploration. I'm looking forward to discovering more hidden gems along the Kumano Kodo, and I can't wait to share my experiences with you all.

As Daniel and I walked back to our accommodation, hand in hand, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude. This journey has not only allowed us to explore a new culture and landscape but has also deepened our connection to each other and to ourselves. I am reminded of why we embarked on this adventure in the first place—to seek meaning, connection, and a deeper understanding of the world around us. And as we continue our pilgrimage, I am filled with anticipation for what lies ahead, for the lessons we will learn, and for the memories we will create. The Kumano Kodo is a gift, a treasure to be cherished and shared, and I am grateful for the opportunity to walk its path.

The Kumano Kodo is truly a special place, and I feel so fortunate to be able to experience its beauty and history with Daniel. Every day brings new adventures and discoveries, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds. Goodnight from Japan!

Go to day 10 Journey Through Time: Exploring Ancient Shrines and Tranquil Passes
Go to day 12 Discovering Ancient Echoes: Temples and Shrines of Kumano
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Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Join us on a spiritual journey through Japan's Kumano Kodo, exploring sacred trails, ancient shrines, and stunning landscapes with my husband.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Emily Johnson
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Marketing Consultant
  • Country icon Country: United Kingdom
  • Age icon Age: 32

Hello fellow wanderers! I'm Emily, a California girl living in London and juggling my life as a marketing consultant with my passion for travel. This blog is where I share my adventures, from weekend getaways in the English countryside to exploring far-flung corners of the globe. I love uncovering hidden gems, immersing myself in local cultures, and capturing the beauty of the world through my lens. Join me as I share practical tips, inspiring stories, and a healthy dose of wanderlust!

Interests:
  • Photography
  • Sustainable living
  • Art history
  • Trying new cuisines
  • Learning new languages
More about Emily Johnson

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