Adventurous Escape to Samaria Gorge

A Day of Heights and History

Today was a day of contrasts, from scaling mountain peaks to delving into the depths of ancient caves and exploring the resilient history etched into the stones of Agia Roumeli. After several days of traversing the Samaria Gorge, I was ready to take on a new challenge, and the area around Agia Roumeli certainly delivered. The crisp December air invigorated me as I set out, eager to discover what awaited me.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at SAMARIA, a local restaurant known for its traditional Cretan fare. Fuelled up with strong coffee and a delicious pastry, I felt prepared for the ascent to Papakefala summit and the exploration of Kormokopos Cave. David, always the early bird, was already snapping photos of the sunrise over the Libyan Sea. He's really gotten into photography lately, inspired by the landscapes we've encountered on this trip. He promised to share some tips with me later, though I suspect his talent is more than just technique.

The trail to Papakefala summit was a steady climb, the path winding through rocky terrain. The views became increasingly breathtaking as we gained altitude, with the rugged Cretan landscape unfolding beneath us. It was challenging but so rewarding. I was so glad I remembered to pack my hiking boots; I would have been miserable in anything else!

Sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are those that push us beyond our comfort zones.

Reaching the summit of Papakefala was an exhilarating experience. The panoramic views were simply stunning – a sweeping vista of mountains, valleys, and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. I could see the village of Agia Roumeli nestled below, a tiny cluster of buildings against the vastness of the landscape. David and I took some time to soak it all in, capturing the moment with photos and simply breathing in the fresh mountain air. It’s moments like these that remind me why I love to travel, to challenge myself, and to witness the raw beauty of our planet.

From the summit, we descended towards Kormokopos Cave, a natural wonder that beckoned with its mysterious depths. The hike down was a bit steep, but the anticipation of exploring the cave kept us motivated. The entrance to the cave was hidden amongst the rocks, and as we stepped inside, we were immediately enveloped in cool, damp air. It was such a contrast to the bright sunshine outside. The cave itself was fascinating, with stalactites and stalagmites forming intricate patterns on the walls. I felt like a true explorer, venturing into the unknown. I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but the cave’s geological significance was evident, offering a glimpse into the ancient history of the area.


Experience the stunning beauty of Papakefala Summit and Kormokopos Cave Trail, a hiker's paradise in the heart of Crete, Greece.

After our subterranean adventure, we made our way back to Agia Roumeli, our stomachs rumbling. Lunch at Taverna Tarra was a welcome treat. We devoured traditional Greek salads, moussaka, and fresh seafood, all while enjoying the pleasant atmosphere of the taverna. The staff were incredibly friendly, and the service was prompt. I made a mental note to try and recreate the moussaka when I get back to Berlin – a little taste of Crete to brighten up those winter evenings.

With our bellies full, we decided to explore the historical side of Agia Roumeli. Our destination: the Castle of Agia Roumeli, also known as Koules, an Ottoman-era fortress perched on a hill overlooking the village. The hike up to the castle was steep and took about an hour, but the views from the top were well worth the effort. The castle itself is a fascinating piece of history, built in the 19th century to suppress Cretan resistance. Standing within its walls, I could almost feel the echoes of the past, the struggles and triumphs of those who came before us. The panoramic views from the castle were breathtaking, encompassing the Libyan Sea, the Samaria Gorge, and the village below. It was a perfect spot to reflect on the day’s adventures and to appreciate the rich history of this island.


Explore the historic Castle Agia Roumeli in Crete: a 19th-century fortress with panoramic views of the Libyan Sea and Samaria Gorge.

Before dinner, I wanted to find a special memento of my trip. I stopped by the Olive wood Art Shop, drawn in by the beautiful handcrafted items on display. I ended up buying a small olive wood carving of a dolphin, a reminder of the crystal-clear waters of Crete. It’s amazing how artisans blend Cretan aesthetics with olive wood to carve handcrafted decorative objects and handy items. I also picked up a few small gifts for friends back in Berlin, hoping to share a little piece of Crete with them. I know my friend Ingrid, who is obsessed with sustainable living, will appreciate the eco-friendly aspect of olive wood products.


Explore the Olive Wood Art Shop in Topolia for handcrafted treasures that embody the essence of Cretan culture and artistry.

As the sun began to set, we headed to Pension Paradise for dinner. The restaurant had a magical view, and the food was incredible. Maria and her husband Jorge are the perfect hosts. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we felt like we were part of the family. I enjoyed some delicious lamb and a glass of local wine while chatting with Maria about the history of Agia Roumeli. She shared stories of her family and the challenges they faced over the years. It was a truly special experience, connecting with the locals and learning about their way of life.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we are planning a visit to the Greleskas Observatory and the Roman Aqueduct. I’m excited to learn more about the stars and the ancient history of this region. And perhaps we'll stop by Liviko bar for a nightcap!

Today was a reminder that travel is about more than just ticking off destinations on a list. It’s about immersing yourself in the local culture, connecting with people, and discovering the hidden gems that make each place unique. Agia Roumeli, with its rugged landscapes, ancient history, and warm hospitality, has captured my heart. As I drift off to sleep tonight, I’m filled with gratitude for the experiences of the day and anticipation for what tomorrow will bring.

I am so glad that David and I decided to come to Samaria Gorge with our friends. It's been such a wonderful experience.