Solo Artistic Retreat on Naoshima Island

A Day of Whispers and Reflections

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and artistic immersion, perfectly embodying the spirit of Naoshima. It’s funny how a solo trip can sometimes feel more connected than when I’m surrounded by familiar faces. Maybe it’s the intentionality of seeking out new experiences, or perhaps it’s the vulnerability that comes with navigating the unknown. Whatever it is, Naoshima continues to deliver moments of profound connection.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Cin.na.mon. The Naoshima curry was calling my name, and I couldn't resist starting my day with this local favorite. It’s a charming little spot, and the curry was the perfect fuel for a day of exploring. Sipping on my coffee, I planned my route, eager to experience the unique blend of art and nature that Naoshima offers. It reminded me of Zahlé, where the blend of nature and architecture always inspired a sense of peace. The aroma of spices filled the air, a comforting reminder of home, even thousands of miles away.

First on my list was La forêt des murmures. Nestled in a serene part of the island, it’s a collection of countless wind chimes, each carrying the names of loved ones written by past visitors. Walking through the forest, the gentle tinkling of the chimes created a soothing symphony, a chorus of whispers carried by the breeze. It was incredibly moving to see the names and read some of the messages, a testament to the enduring power of love and memory. I found myself thinking of Jihad and Lina, wishing they were here to experience this tranquil place with me. I imagined Lina’s delight at the sound of the chimes, her eyes wide with wonder. I made a mental note to bring them back someday.


Immerse yourself in La forêt des murmures, a stunning art exhibit harmonizing nature and creativity in the heart of Tonosho, Kagawa.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

The experience was particularly poignant considering Christian Boltanski's connection to the island and his exploration of memory. Knowing that his works continue to resonate here, even after his passing, added another layer of depth to the visit. It was a reminder of how art can transcend time and mortality, leaving a lasting impact on those who encounter it. I spent a good hour simply wandering, listening, and reflecting. The forest offered a sanctuary, a place to disconnect from the noise of the world and reconnect with the quiet whispers of my own heart. It reminded me of the cedar forests near Zahlé, where I often went to find solace and inspiration.

Leaving the forest, I made my way to the Art House Project in the Honmura district. This project transforms abandoned houses, temples, and shrines into art installations, blending the history of the buildings with contemporary art. It’s a fascinating concept, breathing new life into forgotten spaces and creating a dialogue between the past and the present. My first stop was Kadoya.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

Kadoya was the first house to be completed in the Art House Project. This 200-year-old restored residence features artwork that incorporates water and light to create immersive experiences. The most striking piece was the Sea of Time ’98 by Tatsuo Miyajima, where LED displays are set in a pool of water, the numbers counting down from 10 at varying speeds determined by the residents of Honmura. The effect was mesmerizing, the flickering lights reflecting off the water, creating an ethereal atmosphere. It felt like stepping into another world, a space where time itself was fluid and ever-changing. The attendant warned me about the floor being submerged in water, a fact I appreciated given my tendency to be a bit clumsy at times.

After immersing myself in the digital depths of Kadoya, I decided to treat myself to lunch at Yayoda. This seafood restaurant is known for its fresh, local ingredients and traditional Japanese fare. I opted for the sashimi, eager to taste the flavors of the Seto Inland Sea. The fish was incredibly fresh, melting in my mouth with a delicate sweetness. It was a true culinary delight, a testament to the island’s commitment to quality and authenticity. The meal came with a cup of light broth made from barnacles foraged from the Naoshima shore – a unique and surprisingly delicious touch. As I savored each bite, I watched the boats bobbing in the harbor, feeling grateful for the simple pleasures of good food and beautiful scenery.

With my appetite satisfied, I spent the afternoon browsing the Benesse House Shop. I didn’t buy anything, but it was fun to look at the various art books and design objects. I always find it inspiring to see how artists translate their visions into tangible forms. It’s a reminder that creativity can manifest in countless ways, from grand installations to everyday objects. I picked up a few postcards to send to Lina, wanting to share a piece of my experience with her.


Explore the artistic offerings of Benesse House Shop in Naoshima, a unique souvenir store celebrating local art and craftsmanship with exclusive pieces.

As evening approached, I made my way to Kinosaki Udon Naoshima for dinner. After a day of art and exploration, a comforting bowl of udon seemed like the perfect way to end the day. This cozy little shop is known for its handmade udon and delicious tempura, frequented by locals and tourists alike. I ordered the Niku Udon, the shop’s most popular dish. The noodles were perfectly chewy, and the broth was rich and flavorful, infused with the savory taste of sweet and salty simmered beef. It was a hearty and satisfying meal, the perfect way to warm up on a cool evening. The atmosphere was cozy and welcoming, reflecting the local culture and traditions that make dining here a memorable experience.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I appreciate the intentionality of solo travel. It allows me to fully immerse myself in the present moment, to notice the small details that might otherwise go unnoticed. It’s a chance to listen to my own thoughts, to reconnect with my own passions, and to discover new aspects of myself. As I walked back to My Lodge Naoshima, I felt a sense of contentment wash over me. The island had once again worked its magic, leaving me feeling inspired, refreshed, and deeply grateful.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yokobou Park and the Ando Museum. I’m excited to see more of Ando’s architecture and to discover the hidden gems of Yokobou Park. I’m also looking forward to trying APRON CAFE for breakfast and perhaps ending the day with a drink at maimai. Until then, I’ll savor the memories of today, the whispers in the wind, and the reflections in the water.

It’s amazing how a small island can hold so much beauty and inspiration. Naoshima has a way of getting under your skin, of making you see the world in a new light. It’s a place where art and life intertwine, where the past and the present coexist, and where the whispers of the wind carry the stories of generations. I’m so grateful to be here, to experience this unique and transformative place. As I drift off to sleep, I can still hear the gentle tinkling of the wind chimes, a lullaby of memories and dreams.