Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancients

Today, Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, a day filled with the echoes of pilgrims past and the raw power of nature. It was a day of ascents and descents, both literal and metaphorical, as we immersed ourselves in the spiritual embrace of Kumano Nachi Taisha and the awe-inspiring Nachi Waterfall. The air was thick with history, each step a connection to centuries of devotion and reflection.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE in Kii-Katsuura. As a sound engineer, I always appreciate the ambiance of a place, and this café was a symphony of gentle chatter and the clinking of ceramic. We fueled up with a traditional Japanese breakfast, the subtle flavors preparing us for the day's physical and spiritual journey. I made a mental note of the cafe, thinking I could try to recreate some of the sounds I heard in my studio back in Potsdam. Lena, ever the kindergarten teacher, enjoyed the bright, cheerful atmosphere, imagining how her kids would love the space. After breakfast, we made our way towards Kumano Nachi Taisha, anticipation building with each step.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The hike itself was a pilgrimage of sorts. The path wound upwards, the air growing cooler and crisper as we ascended. Towering cedar trees lined our route, their ancient roots clinging to the earth, creating a natural cathedral of green. I couldn't help but think of the forests around Potsdam, but these were different, imbued with a sense of history and reverence. Lena, with her boundless energy, pointed out the various plant species, her knowledge of the natural world always impressive. We even passed fellow travelers, their faces etched with determination and peace, all drawn to this sacred place.

Finally, we reached Kumano Nachi Taisha. The vermillion of the shrine buildings against the backdrop of the lush forest was a sight to behold. The shrine exuded an aura of tranquility, a testament to its long history as a center of faith. We took our time exploring the grounds, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and the serene expressions of the statues. I found myself particularly drawn to an ancient camphor tree, its gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. Lena lit an incense stick, offering a silent prayer for her kindergarteners back home.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

In the embrace of nature's grandeur and spiritual heritage, we find echoes of our own journey, a reminder of the enduring power of faith and the search for inner peace.

After paying our respects at the shrine, we made our way to Nachi Waterfall. As we approached, the sound of the cascading water grew louder, a constant, powerful roar that vibrated through the very ground beneath our feet. And then, we saw it. Nachi Waterfall, Japan's tallest single-drop waterfall, plunging 133 meters into the basin below. It was a sight that humbled us, a display of nature's raw, untamed power. The mist from the falls kissed our faces, a refreshing baptism that washed away the fatigue of the hike.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

Lena and I stood in awe, mesmerized by the sheer force and beauty of the waterfall. I tried to capture the sound of the falls with my recorder, hoping to incorporate it into a future project. Lena, always the pragmatist, reminded me to protect the equipment from the spray. We learned about the legend of the monk from India, Ragyo Shonin, who enshrined a golden statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, at the base of the waterfall. This act established Nachi as a sacred place, a testament to the enduring power of faith and the interconnectedness of different spiritual traditions. It was fascinating to learn how the site was venerated even before organized religion, highlighting humanity's inherent connection to nature.

For lunch, we stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse. It was a welcome respite, and we savored the simple yet delicious meal, reflecting on the morning's experiences. The teahouse offered a stunning view of the surrounding landscape, a patchwork of green hills and valleys stretching as far as the eye could see. I imagined the countless pilgrims who had rested at this very spot, their hearts filled with hope and anticipation.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As we ate, we chatted with a local couple who were also hiking the Kumano Kodo. They shared stories of the region's history and culture, their voices filled with pride and affection. It was moments like these that made our journey so special, the connections we forged with the people we met along the way. Lena, with her outgoing personality, easily struck up a conversation, her German accent always a conversation starter.

In the late afternoon, as the sun began to dip below the horizon, we made our way to Kumagoro for dinner. After a day of traditional experiences, we decided to try something different. We enjoyed a hearty meal, the flavors a delightful blend of local and international influences. It was the perfect way to end a day of pilgrimage, our bodies nourished and our spirits renewed.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Later that evening, as we sipped wine at Wine Kumano, we reflected on the day's journey. The Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Waterfall had left an indelible mark on our souls, a reminder of the power of nature, the importance of faith, and the enduring spirit of humanity. The combination of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, existing harmoniously side by side, was a powerful symbol of religious tolerance and the interconnectedness of all things.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

Tomorrow, we're setting off to explore Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara. I am looking forward to seeing what new experiences and insights await us on the next leg of our Kumano Kodo adventure. I anticipate more breathtaking scenery, more opportunities for reflection, and more chances to connect with the rich cultural heritage of this sacred region. I’m especially excited about visiting Oyunohara, the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha, and experiencing the spiritual energy of this ancient ground. Lena is eager to visit Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, hoping to find some unique souvenirs for her kindergarten class.

As I close this entry, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it is a journey of self-discovery, a pilgrimage to the heart of what it means to be human. And I am grateful to be sharing it with Lena, my partner in life and adventure.