Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

First Steps on the Kumano Kodo
Today marked the beginning of our fifteen-day adventure along the Kumano Kodo, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Lena and I have been anticipating this journey for months, eager to immerse ourselves in the serene landscapes and rich cultural heritage of Japan. As a sound engineer, I'm particularly keen to capture the unique soundscapes of this ancient pilgrimage route, from the rustling of leaves in the dense forests to the gentle murmur of the streams that crisscross the path.

Our day began early with a flight from Berlin to Osaka, followed by a train to Kii-Tanabe. The journey itself was an experience, watching the Japanese countryside unfold outside the train window. Arriving in Kii-Tanabe, we immediately felt the shift in pace from the bustling city to a more tranquil, rural setting. We checked into our accommodation and set out to explore the town, eager to soak in the local atmosphere.

Our first stop was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It was invaluable in providing us with maps, trail information, and insights into the history and significance of the Kumano Kodo. The center itself is quite interesting. I learned that these centers aim to revitalize neighboring areas by offering information on Kumano Kodo and encouraging interchange with locals. I picked up a few pamphlets and chatted with the staff, who were incredibly helpful and welcoming. Lena, ever the planner, made sure we had all the essentials for our trek, including the all-important hiking maps and emergency contacts.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.

For breakfast, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The cafe had a charming interior and a calming atmosphere. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with miso soup, grilled fish, and pickled vegetables. Lena opted for a lighter meal of rice porridge and green tea. We took our time savoring each bite, knowing that we needed to fuel up for the adventures ahead.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

After breakfast, we decided to do some shopping. There was a small outdoor shop in the Kumano Kodo Information Center. Although I had packed most of the essentials, I realized I had forgotten insect repellent, a rookie mistake considering the humid climate of Kumano Kodo. Lena reminded me that I had also forgotten my Japanese phrasebook. Luckily, the shop had both items in stock, and I quickly rectified my oversight. Now I feel much more prepared to tackle the trails.

As we wandered through the town, I couldn't help but notice the intricate details of the traditional Japanese architecture. The wooden buildings, with their tiled roofs and sliding doors, exuded a sense of timelessness and tranquility. I made a mental note to capture some of these architectural details with my camera, eager to share the visual beauty of Kumano Kodo with my blog readers.

Lunch was at Sansaro Cafe, a cozy spot known for its vegetarian options. The cafe had a laid-back vibe, with wooden tables, soft lighting, and gentle music playing in the background. I ordered a hearty vegetable curry, while Lena chose the tofu steak. The food was delicious and satisfying, providing us with the energy we needed for the afternoon's activities.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

After lunch, we decided to take a leisurely stroll through the town, soaking in the local atmosphere. We visited a nearby temple, where we watched the monks chanting and performing their daily rituals. The rhythmic sounds of the chanting, combined with the scent of incense, created a sense of peace and serenity. I closed my eyes for a moment, allowing the sounds and scents to wash over me, feeling a deep connection to the spiritual traditions of Kumano Kodo.

As the afternoon wore on, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. Despite its name, the restaurant also offered a variety of seafood dishes, including fresh tuna steaks. I decided to try the local specialty, ordering a tuna steak cooked medium-rare. Lena opted for a vegetarian set meal, which included grilled tofu, tempura vegetables, and miso soup. The food was excellent, and the service was attentive and friendly.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

After dinner, we took a final stroll through the town, enjoying the cool evening air. The streets were quiet and peaceful, with only the occasional sound of crickets chirping in the distance. We stopped by a local tea house, where we sipped on green tea and reflected on the day's experiences. I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to embark on this incredible journey, eager to see what tomorrow would bring.

The weather today was pleasant, with temperatures in the mid-70s and clear skies. However, the forecast for the next few days calls for rain, so we need to ensure we are prepared for wet conditions. I double-checked our rain gear and made sure our backpacks were waterproofed. It seems June in Kumano Kodo can be wet.

As I reflect on our first day, I am struck by the sense of peace and tranquility that permeates this region. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it is a spiritual journey, a chance to connect with nature, history, and oneself. I am excited to continue our trek tomorrow, eager to explore the ancient pilgrimage routes and discover the hidden gems of Kumano Kodo.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Nachi Waterfall. I've heard that Nachi Waterfall is one of the tallest waterfalls in Japan and is considered a sacred site. I am particularly excited to capture the sound of the waterfall, which I imagine will be a powerful and awe-inspiring experience. We'll also grab breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE, lunch at Fushiogami Teahouse, and dinner at Kumagoro. If we have time, we might check out Wine Kumano, a local bar. I'm looking forward to another day of exploration and discovery on the Kumano Kodo.

I'm also excited about the prospect of sharing our experiences with you, my readers. I hope that my blog posts will inspire you to embark on your own journey of self-discovery, whether it be on the Kumano Kodo or elsewhere. Remember, the world is full of incredible places waiting to be explored, and life is too short to stay in one place. Embrace the unknown, challenge yourself, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

Before I sign off, I wanted to share a little anecdote from today's adventures. As we were exploring the Kumano Kodo Information Center, I couldn't help but notice a group of elderly Japanese women meticulously studying a map of the trail. Their faces were etched with determination and excitement, and I was struck by their unwavering spirit of adventure. It was a reminder that age is just a number, and that it's never too late to pursue your dreams. Their enthusiasm was contagious, and it inspired me to approach our own journey with renewed vigor and appreciation.

Speaking of enthusiasm, I must mention Lena's unwavering support and companionship. As many of you know, I tend to get lost in my own thoughts and observations, often missing the practical details of our travels. Lena, with her meticulous planning and attention to detail, keeps me grounded and ensures that we stay on track. Her presence is a constant source of comfort and reassurance, and I am grateful to have her by my side on this incredible journey. Plus, she's the one who reminds me to pack the insect repellent!

I am also curious about local festivals. I did some research and it looks like the Nachi-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival is held in July. Unfortunately, we will miss it, but perhaps we can attend another festival during our travels. It seems the Kumano Hongu Taisha Spring Festival already occurred in April.

Until tomorrow, dear readers, safe travels and happy trails!