Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Pilgrimage and Pinot Noir

Today was a beautiful blend of the ancient and the modern, a day where the echoes of pilgrims past met the delightful clink of wine glasses. Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, experiencing both the physical challenge and the spiritual serenity that this sacred trail offers. It's incredible how a single day can hold so much history, culture, and simple joy.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The simple, traditional fare fueled us up perfectly for the morning's hike. I always appreciate how Japanese breakfasts set you up for a day of activity without feeling heavy. As we ate, we discussed the day ahead, a mix of anticipation and perhaps a little trepidation about the trail. I made sure to pack my camera to capture the day’s beauty, remembering how I almost forgot the portable charger. Lena double-checked our water bottles, ever the practical one. I really admire that about her.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
With our stomachs full, we set off to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, specifically the Chikatsuyu-Oji to Kobiro-Oji Section. The air was crisp and clean, a welcome change from the stuffy city air of Potsdam. The trail was a mix of paved roads and forest paths, a gentle introduction to the day's hiking. As we entered the forest, the sunlight dappled through the leaves, creating an ethereal glow. It was easy to imagine the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before us, seeking enlightenment or simply a connection with nature.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.
We climbed and descended a series of passes, the trail winding alongside a small stream. The sound of the water was incredibly soothing, a constant companion as we walked. Along the way, we saw a statue of Jagata Jizo, a guardian said to protect travelers from fatigue. I made a small offering, hoping for a little extra energy for the rest of our journey. Lena chuckled at my superstition, but I noticed her offering a silent prayer as well. The weather was kind to us, with comfortable temperatures hovering around 22-23°C. Perfect for hiking, though I did notice the humidity creeping up as the day wore on. I was grateful I’d packed a light, breathable shirt.

The trail offers not just a physical journey, but a journey through time, a connection to the souls who have walked this path for centuries.

Our next stop was the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. This section of the trail is known for its stunning cobblestone staircase, lined with ancient cedar trees. It was an impressive sight, the massive trees creating a natural cathedral. The Daimon-zaka, meaning large gate slope, was indeed a grand entrance to the sacred grounds. The stone staircase stretched about 600 meters, with 267 steps leading upwards. It was a bit of a climb, and I found myself pausing frequently to catch my breath. Lena, ever the supportive spouse, kept me going with encouraging words and the occasional shared sip of water. I swear, she's part mountain goat.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route: a UNESCO World Heritage site blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking landscapes.
At the base of the slope, we paused to admire the Meoto Sugi, the husband and wife cedar trees, their roots entwined beneath the path. It felt like a good omen for our own journey together. We even saw some people renting Heian period kimonos at the Daimon-zaka-chaya, a charming tea house along the way. It would have been fun to take some photos in traditional garb, but we were eager to keep moving.

For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. It was a delightful experience. The food was simple, yet incredibly flavorful, and the cozy atmosphere made it the perfect place to relax and recharge. I opted for the Omurice, a Japanese omelet with fried rice, while Lena enjoyed a hearty bowl of udon. The portions were generous, and we left feeling satisfied and ready for the afternoon's adventures.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
After lunch, we decided to treat ourselves to something a little different. We made our way to Wine Kumano, a local bar known for its selection of regional wines. It might seem a bit unconventional to sample wine in the middle of a pilgrimage, but I believe in embracing all aspects of a culture. Plus, after a long day of hiking, a glass of wine sounded like the perfect reward. The bar itself was small and intimate, with a cozy atmosphere that invited relaxation. We sampled a few different wines, each with its unique character and flavor. The owner was incredibly knowledgeable, sharing stories about the local vineyards and the winemaking process. It was fascinating to learn about the region's viticulture, a side of Kumano Kodo I hadn't expected to discover.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.
As the day drew to a close, we headed to Tororoya for dinner. I was intrigued by the restaurant's specialty: tororo, a grated yam dish that's both nutritious and delicious. The restaurant had a warm, inviting ambiance, and the staff were incredibly friendly. We ordered a set meal that included various tororo-based dishes, each one a delightful surprise. I particularly enjoyed the tororo soup, a comforting and flavorful broth that warmed me from the inside out. Lena, who is usually hesitant about trying new things, was pleasantly surprised by the unique texture and taste of the tororo. It was a perfect end to a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.
Before heading back to our accommodation, we briefly considered visiting a local onsen, but decided to save that pleasure for another day. Instead, we took a leisurely stroll through the town, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. The stars were beginning to appear, twinkling in the clear night sky. It was a moment of quiet contemplation, a chance to reflect on the day's experiences. As we walked, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a pathway to self-discovery, a connection to the past, and a celebration of the present.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our Kumano Kodo adventure. We plan to visit Kumano Kodo Guides and hike the Yata Pass (Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail Kiritoshi Road). I'm looking forward to experiencing more of this beautiful region before we bid farewell to Japan. I’m already anticipating the breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE and lunch at Sansaro Cafe. We may even pick up a souvenir at the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. It’s going to be bittersweet, but I know the memories we've made here will last a lifetime. I'm especially grateful to be sharing this experience with Lena. Her constant support and companionship make every adventure even more special. Perhaps we'll celebrate the end of our journey with another glass of local wine. Until then, oyasumi nasai from Kumano Kodo.