Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the River Gods

Today was a symphony of nature's finest compositions, a blend of serene waters, dramatic gorges, and the comforting embrace of Japanese hospitality. Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, and the experiences we gathered were nothing short of magical. It's days like these that remind me why we traded the predictable hum of Potsdam for the unpredictable allure of the open road.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The traditional Japanese spread was a delightful start to the day. The restaurant is located in a beautifully renovated house. We savored the flavors, fueling up for the adventures that awaited us. I always appreciate how Japanese cuisine balances taste and nutrition, a philosophy I try to incorporate into my own cooking back home. Lena, ever the early bird, was particularly charmed by the delicate presentation of each dish, a testament to the care and artistry that permeates Japanese culture. After breakfast, we set off towards Doro Kyo Gorge, a place I had seen pictures of, but nothing could have prepared me for its real beauty.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.
The drive itself was an experience, winding through lush forests and offering glimpses of the Kitayama River below. When we arrived, the gorge was shrouded in a light mist, adding an ethereal quality to the already dramatic landscape. The sheer cliffs, carved by centuries of erosion, rose majestically from the emerald waters. The forests seemed prehistoric.

We found a viewing point and looked down at the Kitayama River. The crisp mountain air invigorated me. The sign indicated that the borders of three prefectures meet at Dorokyo.

Next on the agenda was a boat tour through the gorge. As we boarded the traditional Japanese boat, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. The boat gently glided into the gorge, and the views became even more spectacular. The steep cliffs, covered in lush vegetation, created a mesmerizing effect. The water was crystal clear, allowing us to see the riverbed below.

The scenery of Dorokyo is so intense, that it is almost overwhelming at times. The unspoiled nature of the gorge feels prehistoric.

Lena was captivated by the reflections on the water, remarking how the scene looked like a painting come to life. I, on the other hand, was fascinated by the geology of the gorge, imagining the forces that had shaped this landscape over millennia. The boat tour lasted about 40 minutes. We passed the Yamabiko Bridge, a suspension bridge that connects Mie and Nara Prefectures.

After the boat tour, our stomachs started to rumble, signaling lunchtime. We headed to Yorozuya Eatery, a charming restaurant in Totsukawa. The restaurant is nestled within the Yoshino Mountains. The food was simple, yet delicious, with a focus on local ingredients. I had a hearty bowl of ramen, while Lena opted for a traditional bento box. We enjoyed the meal, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere of the restaurant. It’s amazing how a simple meal can taste so much better when enjoyed in such a serene setting.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
With our bellies full and spirits high, we embarked on the Kumano Boat River Cruise. This cruise promised a different perspective of the region, and it certainly delivered. As the boat meandered down the Kumano River, we were treated to stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests. The river, once a vital pilgrimage route, now offered a tranquil passage through the heart of Kumano. The cruise travels down the Kumanogawa River, which once was used by the Imperial family and nobles.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.
The traditional wooden flat-bottom boats are equipped with a motor. The tour took about 90 minutes. There were rapids, but it was a comfortable and smooth ride. The skipper turned off the motor and rowed the traditional way, while the guide treated us to a short performance on the shinobue, a Japanese bamboo flute.

The guide shared stories of the river's history and its significance to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. I found myself reflecting on the countless pilgrims who had traveled this same route centuries ago, seeking spiritual enlightenment. It was a humbling experience, connecting us to the rich cultural heritage of the region. Lena, ever the romantic, was moved by the tales of love and loss associated with the river, stories that added a layer of depth to the already stunning scenery.

As the sun began to dip below the horizon, we made our way to KUMANOYASAI CAFE for a relaxing evening. The cafe offered a cozy atmosphere and a selection of local beers and snacks. We sat outside, enjoying the cool evening air and reflecting on the day's adventures. The cafe is near Chikatsuyu-oji. The host bakes bagels and muffins. We felt well taken care of. The view was incredible and the food was delightful.


Discover the flavors of Wakayama at Kumonoyasai Cafe, where fresh ingredients meet a cozy atmosphere for a delightful dining experience.
The cafe is a tranquil retreat on the Kumano Kodo. The owner moved from Tokyo to enjoy the nature and quiet of Kumano. The owner provides healthy homemade meals using locally grown produce. It was the perfect way to unwind and prepare for the next leg of our journey. Sipping on a local brew, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience such a unique and beautiful part of the world. Lena and I chatted about tomorrow's itinerary, which includes visits to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kamikura Shrine, both steeped in history and spiritual significance. We will also visit the Toretore Market.

For dinner, we decided to try Tororoya, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. The restaurant was small and intimate, with a warm and inviting atmosphere. We were greeted by the friendly staff, who guided us through the menu. I opted for a hearty seafood dish, while Lena chose a vegetarian option. The food was delicious, and the service was impeccable. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day. As we walked back to our accommodation, hand in hand, I felt a deep sense of contentment. The Kumano Kodo was slowly revealing its secrets, and I couldn't wait to see what tomorrow would bring.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.
Back at our accommodation, I took out my bouzouki and played a few Greek tunes. Lena joined in, humming along to the melodies. It's moments like these that make our travels so special, a blend of cultural immersion and personal connection. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamt of emerald waters, towering cliffs, and the gentle whispers of the river gods.