Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past
Today was a day of quiet contemplation, a gentle unfolding of history and nature along the Kumano Kodo. Lena and I set out with the intention of letting the path guide us, and it did not disappoint. We explored ancient trees, visited serene shrines, and savored local flavors, each experience weaving a deeper connection to this spiritual landscape. It’s amazing how much history you can discover when you slow down and just observe.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The Omotenashi-Kan, with its beautifully renovated old folk house, was a great spot to start the day. I enjoyed a simple but satisfying traditional Japanese breakfast, while Lena tried some local delicacies. It was a peaceful way to prepare for the day's explorations, surrounded by the quiet charm of Kumano.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
Fueled and ready, our first destination was the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree. The bus ride to Fukusada was scenic, winding through lush greenery and small villages. As we approached, the giant gingko came into view, and I was immediately struck by its size and presence. It’s estimated to be over a thousand years old, a true testament to the passage of time. Standing beneath its branches, I felt a sense of awe and humility. The tree's massive trunk and expansive canopy created a natural cathedral, a place for quiet reflection.


Explore the ancient beauty of the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Ginkgo Tree, a symbol of resilience and tranquility in Wakayama's lush landscapes.
I took several photos, trying to capture its grandeur, but no image could truly convey the feeling of standing in its presence. Lena and I spent some time simply sitting at the base, listening to the wind rustling through its leaves. I couldn't help but think about all the seasons this tree has witnessed, all the stories it could tell.

In the presence of ancient trees and sacred shrines, time seems to slow, and the whispers of the past become clearer.

Leaving the gingko tree, we made our way to Inabaneoji Shrine. The shrine was nestled in a quiet, wooded area, accessible by a short, uphill walk. The air was cool and damp, filled with the scent of cedar and moss. As we approached the entrance, I noticed the intricate details of the wooden gate and the stone lanterns lining the path.


Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.
The shrine itself was small and understated, but it exuded a sense of peace and reverence. We took a moment to purify ourselves at the water basin before entering the main hall. Inside, we offered a small prayer for continued safe travels and good health. The silence of the shrine was broken only by the gentle chirping of birds, a soothing melody that added to the tranquil atmosphere.


For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. This restaurant is registered on Tabelog as a corporate member and taste is their specialty. After a morning of quiet contemplation, we were ready for some culinary exploration. I opted for a local specialty, a hearty noodle dish with mountain vegetables, while Lena chose a tempura set. The food was simple but delicious, providing a comforting warmth that filled us from the inside out.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
After lunch, we decided to visit the Toretore Market. The market was bustling with activity, a stark contrast to the serene atmosphere of the morning. There was a wide array of fresh seafood on display, from glistening fish to plump shellfish. I was fascinated by the tuna-cutting show, where a skilled chef expertly carved up a massive tuna with impressive speed and precision. The market was a feast for the senses, with the vibrant colors of the produce, the salty smell of the sea, and the lively chatter of vendors and customers. We picked up some fresh snacks for later and enjoyed walking around.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.
For dinner, we chose Tororoya restaurant. The restaurant had a cozy, inviting atmosphere, with wooden tables and soft lighting. We enjoyed a delicious meal featuring local ingredients and traditional recipes. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection. We discussed the highlights of our day, sharing our favorite moments and savoring the memories we had created.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.
As we walked back to our accommodation, the air was filled with the sounds of crickets and the gentle breeze rustling through the trees. The stars twinkled above us, creating a magical canopy that seemed to stretch on forever. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared today, for the beauty we had witnessed, and for the connections we had made.


The weather in Kumano Kodo in June is generally comfortable, with highs around 22°C to 23°C and lows around 17°C to 19°C. Though mostly sunny, rain is frequent, so it is important to be prepared for both dry and wet weather.


Looking ahead to tomorrow, we plan to hike the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass and visit Third Place Kumano Kodo. I’m excited to see what other wonders await us on this incredible journey.


The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it is a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with nature and history, and an opportunity to find peace and tranquility in a chaotic world. I feel incredibly fortunate to be able to experience this sacred path with Lena, sharing in its beauty and its wisdom.


During our travels, I am always reminded of my passion for sound and music, and I find myself listening intently to the sounds of each new place. The gentle rustling of leaves in the ancient gingko tree, the rhythmic chanting at Inabaneoji Shrine, the lively bustle of the Toretore Market – each sound tells a story, adding depth and richness to our experience. I find myself wishing I had my bouzouki with me sometimes. It would be amazing to play some German folk songs here in Japan.


As we continue our pilgrimage, I am filled with anticipation for what lies ahead, for the lessons we will learn, and for the memories we will create. The Kumano Kodo is a gift, a treasure to be cherished and shared, and I am grateful for the opportunity to walk its path.