Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past Along the Kumano Kodo

Today was a day of deep reflection and physical challenge as Lena and I continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. The ancient pilgrimage routes whispered stories of centuries past, each step resonating with the footsteps of countless travelers who sought solace and spiritual awakening in these mountains. It was a day where the boundary between the present and the past blurred, leaving us with a profound sense of connection to something larger than ourselves.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Takehara. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Lena, ever the adventurer, tried the local specialty, Takehara-yaki okonomiyaki. It was a savory pancake filled with sake lees, a unique twist that gave it a slightly sweet and umami flavor. Fuelled up, we set off to tackle the Koyazaka Slope.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.
The Koyazaka Slope, a section of the Kumano Kodo in Shingu, was a gentle introduction to the day's hiking. It meanders along the coast towards Nachi station. This path, once trod by whalers and pilgrims alike, is now a registered Japan Heritage site. As we ascended, the panoramic views of the Kumano-nada Sea unfolded before us, the vast expanse of water meeting the horizon in a seamless blend of blue. The air was thick with the scent of pine and damp earth, a fragrance that spoke of ancient forests and untold stories. We paused at Ojigahama beach, the black sands glistening under the morning sun. It's hard to believe that this serene spot was once a lookout point for whalers.

The trail was well-maintained, with moss-covered stone steps leading us through a canopy of leafy trees. Sunlight filtered through the leaves, casting dappled shadows on the path. We passed small Jizo statues, their serene faces offering silent blessings to travelers. I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me, a feeling that grew stronger with each step. The gentle incline allowed us to take our time, soaking in the atmosphere and appreciating the natural beauty around us. It was a stark contrast to the bustling city life we had left behind in Potsdam, a world away from the quiet solitude of the Kumano Kodo.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey through time, a pathway to self-discovery, and a testament to the enduring power of nature and spirituality.

After completing the Koyazaka Slope, we continued our pilgrimage along the Kumano-Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route, where ancient spirituality meets stunning natural beauty in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.
This route, known for connecting Koyasan and Kumano Hongu, is the shortest but steepest of all the Kumano Kodo routes. I was excited, but also a little apprehensive. I knew that the Kohechi route would be more challenging than the trails we had hiked so far, with steep ascents and descents that would test our physical and mental endurance.

As we started on the Kohechi route, the landscape transformed dramatically. Gone were the gentle slopes and coastal views. In their place were rugged mountain trails, dense forests, and a sense of profound isolation. The path wound its way up steep inclines, the air growing thinner with each step. The trees towered above us, their branches intertwined to form a dense canopy that blocked out the sun. The only sounds were the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and our own heavy breathing.

The Kohechi route is not for the faint of heart. It's a demanding trail that requires a good level of fitness and a willingness to push oneself beyond their comfort zone. There were moments when I questioned my ability to continue, when my legs burned and my lungs ached. But then I would remember why we were here, what we were seeking, and I would find the strength to take another step.

Lena, with her boundless energy and unwavering optimism, was a constant source of encouragement. She would often stop to admire the scenery, pointing out a unique flower or a particularly striking rock formation. Her enthusiasm was infectious, reminding me to appreciate the small things, even when the going got tough.

We pressed on, driven by a shared sense of purpose. The trail led us through ancient forests, past cascading waterfalls, and over rocky mountain passes. We encountered other pilgrims along the way, each with their own story to tell. We exchanged smiles and nods, a silent acknowledgment of the shared journey we were undertaking.

One particular section of the trail was especially challenging. It was a steep, rocky ascent that seemed to go on forever. My legs were screaming, and my breath came in ragged gasps. Just when I thought I couldn't take another step, we reached the summit. The view from the top was breathtaking. The mountains stretched out before us, a sea of green peaks and valleys. The sky was a brilliant blue, dotted with fluffy white clouds. It was a moment of pure exhilaration, a reward for all our hard work and perseverance.

As we descended from the summit, we came across a small, secluded clearing. It was the perfect spot for a picnic lunch. We spread out our blanket and unpacked the food we had bought earlier in the day. We savored each bite, appreciating the simple pleasure of a meal shared in nature's embrace. After lunch, we rested for a while, soaking in the sun and enjoying the peace and quiet.

Our lunch at Watarase Onsen Cafe was a delightful interlude.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.
I chose a hearty bowl of ramen, while Lena opted for a vegetarian curry. The cafe was bustling with fellow hikers, all eager to refuel before continuing their journey. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, a testament to the shared experience of the Kumano Kodo.

The afternoon brought its own set of challenges. The trail became steeper and more uneven, testing our balance and agility. We had to navigate slippery rocks, cross rushing streams, and clamber over fallen logs. But with each obstacle we overcame, we grew stronger and more confident.

As the sun began to set, we finally reached our destination for the night. It was a small, traditional guesthouse nestled in a remote mountain village. The guesthouse was simple but comfortable, with tatami mats on the floor and paper screens on the windows. We were greeted by the friendly owner, who welcomed us with a warm smile and a cup of green tea.

After freshening up, we joined the other guests for dinner. The meal was a traditional Japanese feast, with a variety of dishes made from local ingredients. We ate heartily, savoring the flavors and enjoying the company of our fellow travelers. As the evening drew to a close, we retired to our room, exhausted but content. We lay on our futons, listening to the sounds of the night. The wind rustled through the trees, and the crickets chirped in the distance. It was a symphony of nature, a lullaby that lulled us to sleep.

Before heading to bed, we reflected on the day's experiences. We had hiked through ancient forests, climbed steep mountains, and crossed rushing streams. We had pushed ourselves to our physical and mental limits, and we had emerged stronger and more resilient. We had connected with nature, with history, and with ourselves. It was a day that would stay with us forever.

For dinner, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved feast at Hinoki Steak House.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
I indulged in a juicy Kumano beef steak, cooked to perfection, while Lena savored a tuna hamburg steak. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, the perfect place to unwind after a long day of hiking. We raised a glass of local sake to another day of adventure, our hearts full of gratitude and anticipation for what tomorrow would bring.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Wine Kumano, a charming little bar specializing in natural wines.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.
We sampled a few local varieties, each with its own unique flavor and character. The atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, a perfect ending to a perfect day. As we sipped our wine, we chatted with the friendly owner, who shared stories about the region and its people.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree and Inabaneoji Shrine. I am looking forward to more discoveries on the Kumano Kodo.

As I write this, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had today. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey through time, a pathway to self-discovery, and a testament to the enduring power of nature and spirituality. I am so glad that Lena and I decided to embark on this adventure together. It's strengthened our bond and created memories that we will cherish for a lifetime.