Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

Today, Lena and I walked deeper into the soul of Kumano Kodo, a journey that felt less like a hike and more like a conversation with the ancients. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and the hushed reverence of centuries, as we set out to explore the Shimizu-toge Pass and the welcoming embrace of Third Place Kumano Kodo. It’s incredible how these trails manage to transport you not just across geographical distances, but through time itself.


Discover breathtaking views and spiritual trails at Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass, a must-visit hiking destination in Wakayama, Japan.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Tucked away, this cafe is more than just a place to grab a bite; it's a community hub buzzing with locals and fellow pilgrims alike. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Lena, ever the enthusiast for local flavors, chose a bagel made with Kumano-grown vegetables. Fuelled up, we were ready to tackle the trails.

The Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass was our first major stop. The pass itself marks a historical boundary between Kuchi-Kumano and Oku-Kumano. As we ascended, the views became increasingly stunning. The trail was well-maintained, but rugged enough to remind us that we were walking in the footsteps of pilgrims who had journeyed this way for over a thousand years. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow on the moss-covered stones. I couldn't help but feel a profound sense of connection to those who came before us, seeking solace and enlightenment in these mountains.

One notable feature of Shimizu-toge Pass is a massive rock. It is located near the entrance of the Kushimoto side, and climbing it reveals a dyke shaped like a whale's back.

The beauty of Kumano Kodo lies not just in its scenic trails, but in its ability to connect you with the echoes of centuries of spiritual seekers.

After a good few hours of walking, we decided to stop for lunch at Sansaro Cafe. This wasn't just a meal; it was an experience. The cafe is nestled in Kumano-gawa village and run by Ms. Uzawa, who is passionate about yoga, music, food, and healing. Lena and I shared a couple of sandwiches made with local ingredients, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and the stunning view of the Akagi-gawa river and surrounding rice fields. It was the perfect spot to recharge before continuing our journey.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Our final stop for the day was Third Place Kumano Kodo. This beautifully restored farmhouse offers a unique glimpse into traditional Japanese countryside living. Mr. Tetsuyama, the owner, has created a welcoming space where travelers can relax and immerse themselves in the local culture. We spent some time exploring the farmhouse, admiring the antique decorations and the traditional tatami mats.

Before dinner, we decided to check out the local bar scene and found ourselves back at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe transforms into a cozy bar in the evening, serving local craft beers and sake. We chatted with some of the locals, learning more about the history and traditions of the area. It was a wonderful way to unwind after a long day of hiking.

For dinner, we headed to Kumagoro, a restaurant known for its delicious and authentic cuisine. Though I was surprised to learn there's also a Kumagoro in Anchorage, Alaska! This Kumagoro offered a delightful array of dishes, from fresh sushi to hearty ramen. Lena opted for a vegetarian set, while I indulged in a traditional katsu curry. It was the perfect way to end our day, savoring the flavors of Japan in a warm and inviting atmosphere.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

As we reflect on today’s journey, I am struck by the way Kumano Kodo seamlessly blends physical challenge with spiritual enrichment. The trails demand effort, but they reward you with breathtaking vistas and a sense of inner peace that’s hard to find elsewhere. It’s a place where every step feels significant, every encounter meaningful.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we are excited to explore Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall and Kumano Kodo Park. We'll start the day with breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, followed by lunch at Kakinoate and dinner at Akihei. I'm also hoping to pick up a few souvenirs at Nachisan Sightseeing Center. Each day on this pilgrimage seems to bring new wonders, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow holds. I'm especially excited to see Kumano-Nachi Taisha, as I've heard the giant camphor tree there is a sight to behold.

This journey is more than just a vacation; it's a pilgrimage of the soul, and I'm grateful to be sharing it with Lena. I'm also grateful that I didn't forget my hiking boots, travel guidebook, camera, raincoat, portable charger, and reusable water bottle! However, I do wish I had remembered insect repellent and a Japanese phrasebook.

As I prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I realize that the true essence of this journey lies not just in the destinations we reach, but in the transformation that occurs within us along the way. It’s about opening ourselves to the wisdom of the past, embracing the beauty of the present, and stepping forward with a renewed sense of purpose and gratitude.

Goodnight from the trails.