Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of deep reflection, a journey that intertwined the spiritual with the historical. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a living tapestry woven with centuries of stories, traditions, and the quiet resilience of the human spirit. I felt a profound connection to the pilgrims who walked these paths before me, their footsteps echoing in my own. It's days like these that remind me why I traded the predictable comfort of my Berlin apartment for the open road.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. I opted for a traditional teishoku set, a delightful assortment of small dishes featuring local ingredients. It was the perfect fuel for the day's explorations, and the friendly atmosphere of the dining hall made me feel right at home. It reminded me of the small family-run tavernas back in Pano Lefkara, where every meal felt like a warm embrace.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. The hall houses an impressive collection of historical artifacts, including ancient scrolls and religious items that offer a unique insight into Shinto practices and the rich history of the Kumano region. The Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a graphic representation of the shrine and its cosmology, was particularly striking. To think that it was used as a visual aid by Kumano bikuni (nuns) who traveled around Japan preaching the Kumano faith is simply amazing. The Treasure Hall also displays small, round mirrors that were once used on portable shrines carried to Nachi Waterfall during the Fire Festival. These mirrors, symbols of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess and protector of the imperial family, were thought to ward off evil.

Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

The true journey lies not in reaching the destination, but in the experiences encountered along the way.

After immersing myself in the treasures of the past, it was time to experience the present – or rather, a present that has been cherished for centuries. I made my way to Tsubo-yu, a UNESCO World Heritage site and Japan's oldest hot spring. The anticipation had been building ever since I first read about it, and I must admit, I was not disappointed. Tucked away in the serene mountain village of Yunomine Onsen, Tsubo-yu is a tiny bathhouse that exudes an aura of history and tranquility. The stone hut encasing the onsen is humble, yet inviting. Only two people can bathe at a time, making it an unusually intimate experience. As I lowered myself into the warm waters, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the countless pilgrims who had sought solace and healing in this very spot. The water itself is known for its therapeutic properties, and it even changes color throughout the day. It was a truly unique and unforgettable experience. For someone who appreciates history as much as I do, it was like stepping back in time.

Experience the serene beauty of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Tanabe, Wakayama, known for its mineral-rich waters and tranquil atmosphere.
For lunch, I decided to try Sukiya R42 Kumano, a local spot known for its hearty beef rice bowls and comforting curry dishes. It was a welcome change of pace after the morning's more introspective activities. The beef rice bowl was delicious and satisfying, and the friendly staff made me feel like a regular. It's these simple, everyday moments that often stand out the most during my travels. It reminded me of the simple gyros joints back in Cyprus.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Sukiya R42 Kumano, where delicious meals await in a cozy family-friendly setting.
As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Watarase Onsen Cafe, a cozy spot where I could unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. The café offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air. I savored a cup of their specialty blend, lost in thought as I watched the sun begin its descent. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with history, spirituality, and the simple joys of travel.

Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.
Before heading back to my accommodation, I made a quick stop at KUMANOYASAI CAFE for a nightcap. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and I enjoyed chatting with some of the locals. It's always a pleasure to connect with people who call these places home, as they often offer insights and perspectives that you won't find in any guidebook.

Discover the flavors of Wakayama at Kumonoyasai Cafe, where fresh ingredients meet a cozy atmosphere for a delightful dining experience.
The August weather in Kumano Kodo is warm and humid, with highs around 28-29°C and lows around 25-26°C. Rain is frequent, so it's important to be prepared for showers. I was glad I had packed my lightweight rain jacket, even though I had forgotten my portable charger back at Jokiin. Sunny days are less common, but when they do occur, they offer a beautiful contrast to the lush greenery of the mountains.

Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
Tomorrow, I plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji and the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I'm excited to explore these new sites and delve deeper into the history and natural beauty of this region. I'm also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Sansaro Cafe for breakfast, Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for lunch and Akihei for dinner. Plus, I plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha shop for souvenirs. I have a feeling it will be another day filled with unforgettable experiences.

As I write this, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this incredible corner of the world. The Kumano Kodo has a way of getting under your skin, of stirring something deep within your soul. It's a place where you can connect with the past, reflect on the present, and find inspiration for the future. And for a freelance software developer from Berlin, that's exactly what I needed.

I'm reminded of a quote by the great Nikos Kazantzakis, a fellow Cretan and a man who understood the power of travel: In order to see clearly, you have to leave what lies near.