Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past, Visions of the Sea

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the solemn echoes of ancient spiritual practices with the raw, untamed beauty of the Pacific coastline. From temples steeped in history to cliffs carved by relentless waves, Kumano Kodo revealed more of its captivating soul. I set out early, eager to absorb every moment of this ninth day on my solo pilgrimage.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. This cozy spot in Shingu is known for its warm hospitality and delicious coffee, the perfect fuel for a day of exploration. I enjoyed a simple but satisfying meal, chatting briefly with the friendly staff about my plans for the day. They offered some great tips on navigating the local buses, which proved invaluable.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Fudarakusan-ji: Where Land Meets Sea

My first destination was Fudarakusan-ji. This Tendai Buddhist temple, located in Nachikatsuura, is not just a place of worship; it's a portal to a fascinating and somewhat unsettling past. Founded over a thousand years ago by Ragyō Shōnin, an Indian monk, the temple is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical dwelling place of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara.


Experience serenity and spirituality at Fudarakusan-ji Temple, a hidden gem in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for cultural exploration and reflection.

What truly sets Fudarakusan-ji apart is its history of *Fudaraku Tokai*, a practice of self-sacrifice where monks would set sail in small, sealed boats, hoping to reach Fudaraku, Kannon's paradise, believed to be an island off the southern coast. These weren't just voyages; they were considered suicide missions, with the monks entrusting themselves to the divine to deliver prayers for humanity. The idea of setting sail on a one-way trip to paradise is both haunting and inspiring. It speaks to a profound devotion and a willingness to embrace the unknown in pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. The ritual took place until the late 19th century.

The temple itself is serene, with a small building housing a replica of one of the boats used in the Fudaraku Tokai ritual. The main hall enshrines a wooden statue of Thousand-Armed Kannon, an Important Cultural Property of Japan. The statue is only displayed publicly three times a year. The temple shares a history of Buddhist-Shinto syncretism with the Kumano Sanzan shrines.

The echoes of the past resonate deeply here, a reminder of the extraordinary lengths to which people will go in search of meaning and salvation.

Beside the temple stands Kumano Sansho Omiwa-yashiro Shrine, a Shinto shrine that was once part of a single syncretistic religious complex with Fudarakusan-ji. A stone pillar called the Furiwake-ishi marks the junction of the three main Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. Though recent urban development has obscured the view, the temple retains its position as a link between the mountains and the sea.

Onigajo: Cliffs of Legend

Leaving the temple, I journeyed north to Onigajo, the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. This dramatic stretch of coastline is a testament to the power of nature, with rugged cliffs carved by the relentless forces of wind and wave. The name *Onigajo* translates to *Demon's Castle,* and as I walked along the trails, I could see why. The bizarre rock formations and caves evoke a sense of otherworldly mystery, as if the cliffs themselves are guarding ancient secrets.


Discover the breathtaking Onigajō Cliff in Kumano, a stunning natural monument offering panoramic coastal views and serene hiking trails amidst rich cultural heritage.

The cliffs plunge into the Pacific Ocean, creating a breathtaking tableau. Maintained pathways lead to viewpoints, each offering a unique perspective of the surrounding nature. Bird watchers can find delight here, as the cliffs serve as a habitat for various bird species. The area is part of a larger nature preserve.

According to legend, Onigajo was once home to a band of pirates who terrorized the coast. The Emperor ordered a general to defeat them, and he supposedly built a fortress on the cliffs to drive the pirates away. Whether or not the legend is true, it adds another layer of intrigue to this already fascinating place. Exploring Onigajo is a sensory experience. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks, the salty air, and the panoramic views all combine to create a powerful connection with nature. I spent hours wandering along the trails, taking photos, and simply breathing in the beauty of the surroundings. It's easy to see why this spot is considered one of the 100 most scenic spots in Japan.

A Taste of Kumano

For lunch, I stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This charming establishment is housed in a renovated 130-year-old house and offers local specialties and takeaway snacks. I enjoyed a simple but delicious meal, savoring the flavors of the region. It was a perfect spot to rest and recharge before continuing my explorations. The building is designated as a national tangible cultural property.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

In the late afternoon, I took some time to do a little shopping at Kumano-Nachi Taisha. I wasn't necessarily looking for anything in particular, but I wanted to support the local economy and perhaps find a small memento of my journey. The area around the shrine has small local shops and cafes. I ended up buying a beautiful handcrafted wooden charm, a reminder of the day's spiritual and natural encounters. It’s always nice to have something tangible to bring back home, a small piece of the journey to hold onto.


Discover the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a must-visit Shinto shrine in Japan's stunning Wakayama mountains.

As evening approached, I made my way to Akihei for dinner. This restaurant in Shingu is known for its traditional Japanese cuisine, and I was eager to experience it for myself. I opted for a selection of sushi and tempura, each dish prepared with meticulous care and attention to detail. The flavors were exquisite, a testament to the chef's skill and the quality of the ingredients. With a children's menu available, it's perfect for families as well as solo diners. The interior features a pure Japanese style, creating a calm and nostalgic atmosphere. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and reflection. As a freelance software developer, I often find myself glued to a screen, immersed in lines of code. Days like today are a welcome reminder of the importance of disconnecting from technology and connecting with the natural world. The peace and tranquility of Kumano Kodo have a way of resetting my mind and rejuvenating my spirit. I feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this sacred place, to walk in the footsteps of pilgrims past, and to discover the hidden gems of Japan.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Tomorrow, I'll be heading to the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center and the Totsui Limestone Cave. I also plan to have breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse, lunch at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, and dinner at HANGOVER. I might even visit Wine Kumano.

Good night from Kumano Kodo!