Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Finding Peace on the Path

Today's journey along the Kumano Kodo was a profound experience, a blend of physical challenge and spiritual reflection. As I walked in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims, I felt a deep connection to the history and natural beauty of this sacred trail. The Kii Mountains offered a serene backdrop for contemplation, and the encounters with fellow travelers enriched my understanding of the pilgrimage's enduring appeal.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Tororoya. I savored every bite, knowing I needed the energy for the day's adventures. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, perfect for fueling up before a long hike. After breakfast, I set out to conquer the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.
The ascent was demanding, but the panoramic views from the summit were well worth the effort. The fresh mountain air invigorated me as I traversed the winding trails. The landscape was breathtaking, with lush greenery stretching as far as the eye could see. I paused frequently to capture the beauty with my camera, trying to preserve the moment's serenity. I could imagine pilgrims of old, their hearts filled with devotion, making their way along this very path.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in the profound sense of connection it fosters with history, nature, and oneself.

After conquering the Shiomi-togego'e Pass, I continued my journey along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section).


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.
This part of the trail was particularly enchanting, with ancient cedar forests and hidden shrines dotting the path. The interplay of light and shadow through the trees created an ethereal atmosphere, enhancing the sense of walking through a living, breathing tapestry of history. I even collected a stamp for my pilgrim passport to officially recognize my pilgrimage.

Around midday, I stopped for lunch at Onigajō Cliff Center.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.
The cliffside views were stunning, and the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks was incredibly soothing. I enjoyed a simple meal while taking in the breathtaking scenery. The center itself was quite interesting, with local specialties and souvenir shops. It was a great place to relax and recharge before continuing my hike. I savored the local Nachi Kuroishi products.

As the afternoon wore on, I made my way to the Fushiogami Teahouse.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming cafe along the Kumano Kodo, offering authentic Japanese tea and serene surroundings.
This charming teahouse is a hidden gem along the Kumano Kodo. Stepping inside, I was greeted by a warm and welcoming atmosphere. I ordered a cup of traditional Japanese tea and a small snack. The tea was the perfect pick-me-up after a long day of hiking. I sat and savored the peaceful ambiance, reflecting on the day's experiences. The teahouse was more than just a place for refreshments; it was an authentic cultural experience. The staff was incredibly friendly, and I enjoyed chatting with them about the history of the Kumano Kodo. It's amazing to think that pilgrims have been stopping at similar teahouses for centuries, seeking respite and connection on their journeys.

The Fushiogami Teahouse is also known as a spot where pilgrims would fall to their knees and pray after catching their first glimpse of the Grand Shrine in the distance. It made me think about Izumi Shikibu, a poet who, about 1000 years ago, realized she was ritually unclean due to her menses and could go no further, and wrote a poem about it. The teahouse truly embodies the Kumano spirit of acceptance.

For dinner, I decided to try Hinoki Steak House.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
After a day of traditional experiences, I was in the mood for something a bit different. The steak house had a classic, inviting atmosphere. I ordered a Kumano beef hamburger steak, which was absolutely delicious. The chef was friendly and professional, and the service was top-notch. It was the perfect way to end a long and fulfilling day. Perhaps Lena would enjoy this place, too, if she were here with me.

As I reflect on today's journey, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and accomplishment. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a pathway to self-discovery and a connection to something larger than oneself. The physical challenges of the day were balanced by moments of profound peace and reflection. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings, as I plan to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall and Tsubo-yu. I'm also looking forward to stopping by KUMANOYASAI CAFE for a drink. Until then, I'll rest and prepare for another day of exploration on this incredible pilgrimage.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall and Tsubo-yu. I've heard wonderful things about both, and I'm excited to immerse myself in more of the local culture and history. I'm also looking forward to a relaxing evening at Watarase onsen cafe. I think I'll need it after another day of hiking!