Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past, Echoes in the Stone

Today was a day of delving into the heart of Kumano Kodo's history and natural beauty. It's amazing how much the past can inform the present, and today was a testament to that. From exploring ancient heritage to venturing into the depths of a limestone cave, every moment was filled with a sense of wonder and discovery. It reminded me of why I started this journey in the first place – to connect with something deeper, something timeless.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Fushiogami Teahouse. The warm, inviting atmosphere was the perfect start to what I knew would be a day of exploration. Sipping on traditional Japanese tea and enjoying a light snack, I felt ready to embrace the day ahead. It's these little moments of peace and tranquility that really make a trip special, allowing you to fully appreciate the experiences to come.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

Next on the agenda was the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center. Located next to the entrance of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, it was the perfect place to immerse myself in the history and culture of the region. The center offers exhibits about the Kumano Hongu area, the sacred sites, and the pilgrimage routes found throughout the Kii Mountain Range. As someone with a keen interest in history and archaeology, I found the exhibits fascinating. Learning about the religious beliefs, historical figures, and legends associated with Kumano Kodo gave me a deeper appreciation for the significance of this pilgrimage route.


Immerse yourself in the cultural heritage of the Kumano region at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, a gateway to the ancient pilgrimage routes.

The journey is the destination, and every step along the way is a chance to learn, grow, and connect with something greater than ourselves.

After spending a couple of hours at the Heritage Center, soaking in all the information, it was time for lunch. I headed over to the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. Yunomine Onsen is known as one of Japan's oldest onsen towns, and the dining hall offered a taste of local cuisine in a charming setting. I opted for a traditional teishoku set, savoring the fresh, local ingredients. The friendly staff made me feel welcome, and the overall atmosphere was relaxed and inviting. It was a great spot to recharge before the afternoon's adventure.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

With renewed energy, I set off to explore the Totsui Limestone Cave. This was perhaps the most anticipated part of the day. The cave is located about 10 minutes from Shirasaki Ocean Park and is the only limestone cave in the Wakayama Prefecture. Formed over 250 million years ago, the cave features stunning stalactites and stalagmites that have been sculpted by nature over millennia.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

The entrance to the cave is through a mine shaft that was dug into the hillside during limestone mining operations in the early twentieth century. It's fascinating to think that this natural wonder was once mined for its resources. The mining operations ceased when the cave and its formations were discovered, preserving it for future generations to enjoy.

The path through the cave is narrow, and at times, I had to duck and stoop to navigate the tight spaces. The main chambers and noteworthy features have names that reflect the images they conjure, such as the Crab Tunnel and the Needle Ceiling Chamber. The calcite formations are whitish with hints of orange, red, and black, illuminated by lights that accentuate their details. It felt like stepping into another world, a subterranean wonderland filled with natural art.

Geologists believe that the coloration of the formations is determined by minerals and possibly acids in the surface vegetation and soil. It's incredible how the environment above ground can influence the beauty found deep beneath the surface. The cave maintains a constant temperature of around 15°C throughout the year, making it a comfortable escape from the summer heat.

After emerging from the cave, I felt a sense of awe and wonder. It's humbling to witness the power of nature and the beauty it can create over vast stretches of time. The Totsui Limestone Cave is a hidden gem that I would highly recommend to anyone visiting the Kumano Kodo region.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to check out Wine Kumano for dinner. This wine bar specializes in natural wine, craft beer, and coffee, offering a multi-course vegetarian meal that can be made vegan. It sounded like the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

The atmosphere at Wine Kumano was stylish and inviting. The staff was friendly and knowledgeable, and the selection of wines and beers was impressive. I opted for a glass of local wine and the vegetarian meal, which was delicious and satisfying. It was a great way to end the day, reflecting on all the experiences and discoveries I had made.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I'm excited to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship and hike the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. I'm also looking forward to trying the local specialties at Tororoya for breakfast and Kakinoate for lunch. And, of course, I'll be sure to stop by Moudemochi to pick up some souvenirs.

As I head back to Jokiin for the night, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and history of Kumano Kodo. Each day brings new adventures and insights, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow holds.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Tomorrow promises more spiritual exploration as I plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship and challenge myself with a hike through the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. I'm already anticipating the delicious breakfast at Tororoya and lunch at Kakinoate, fueling me for the day's adventures. And, knowing me, I'll definitely be making a pit stop at Moudemochi for some local treats. It's all about balancing the spiritual with the sensory, right?

Back at Jokiin, I feel a sense of contentment washing over me. This solo pilgrimage is proving to be exactly what I needed – a chance to disconnect from the digital world, reconnect with nature, and rediscover myself amidst the ancient trails and serene landscapes of Kumano Kodo.

Until tomorrow, sayonara from the sacred trails of Japan!