Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Day 6: Echoes of Pilgrims Past

Today, I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping back in time. The ancient trails of Kumano Kodo beckoned, promising a day filled with historical exploration, natural beauty, and the unique flavors of this sacred region. It was a day to challenge myself physically and immerse myself in the spiritual essence of Japan.

The August air was thick with humidity, a familiar sensation from my Cypriot upbringing, as I started my day with breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This charming spot, nestled in the heart of Yunomine Onsen, offered a delightful array of traditional Japanese dishes. I opted for a hearty teishoku set, savoring the fresh, local ingredients that Wakayama Prefecture is known for. The dining hall also doubled as a newsstand, providing a glimpse into local life and upcoming events. Fueled up and ready, I set off towards Koyazaka Slope.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

The journey to Koyazaka Slope involved a combination of local transport, which gave me a chance to observe the daily rhythms of the area. Arriving at the trailhead, I was immediately struck by the tranquility of the surroundings. The path, well-maintained and lined with ancient trees, offered a serene escape into nature. Koyazaka Slope is part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, stretching from the Hirotsuno bus stop to JR Miwasaki Station. The area featured a small stream with clear water and a railroad track resembling the Kumano Kodo.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

As I walked along the Koyazaka Slope, I couldn't help but feel a connection to the pilgrims of centuries past. The path was dotted with markers that provided insights into the area's heritage, linking me to the traditions of the Kumano Pilgrimage. The gentle sounds of nature and the vibrant flora created a peaceful atmosphere, perfect for reflection.

The beauty of Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in its ability to connect you with history, nature, and yourself.

One of the highlights of the Koyazaka Slope was the breathtaking view of the Ojigahama Coast. From this vantage point, the vast expanse of the sea met the rugged coastline, creating a scene of serene beauty. The trail itself was an easy one, even for inexperienced hikers, making it accessible to all who wished to experience its wonders. I took my time, capturing the panoramic vistas with my camera and soaking in the tranquil environment.

Continuing my journey, I made my way towards the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. This section of the Kumano Kodo promised a deeper immersion into the spiritual heart of the region. The trailhead itself was a place of quiet reverence, marked by ancient trees and a sense of profound history. As I stood there, I could almost hear the whispers of the countless pilgrims who had embarked on this path before me.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. Housed in a beautifully renovated 130-year-old house, this resting place exuded charm and history. I savored local specialties and takeaway snacks, immersing myself in the flavors of Kumano City. The Omotenashi-Kan was more than just a restaurant; it was a cultural experience, a chance to connect with the local community and learn about the region's rich heritage.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment offered a delightful fusion of Italian cuisine and Japanese hospitality. Giovanni dal Bosco, the owner, came to Japan in 2013 and created his own balsamic vinegar with homegrown ingredients and branded his own wine. The restaurant at the guest house was even listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022. Though I didn't spot Lena, I imagined how much she would have loved the setting.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

I enjoyed a glass of local wine, savoring the flavors of the region as I reflected on the day's adventures. The Kumano Winery Guest House was the perfect place to unwind, surrounded by lush vineyards and serene landscapes. The tranquil surroundings invited me to relax and immerse myself in nature, a fitting end to a day of pilgrimage and exploration.

Dinner was at HANGOVER, a restaurant offering an extensive range of dishes from American cuisine to Asian delicacies. It was an interesting experience, a mix of cultures and flavors that reflected the diverse influences of the region. The owner, despite limited English proficiency, served customers with great hospitality.


Discover HANGOVER in Tanabe: Where American Comfort Food Meets Japanese Hospitality for an Unforgettable Dining Experience.

Before heading back to Jokiin, I made a stop at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a nightcap. Sipping on another glass of local wine, I savored the peaceful atmosphere and reflected on the day's journey. The blend of ancient trails and modern sips created a unique and unforgettable experience, a testament to the rich tapestry of Kumano Kodo.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, exploring the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing and the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section). I'm looking forward to another day of discovery, immersing myself in the natural beauty and spiritual essence of this sacred region.

As I prepare for another day on the trail, I'm reminded of the importance of cherishing these moments of solitude and reflection. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with history, nature, and the depths of your own soul. I am grateful for the opportunity to walk this path, to learn from its wisdom, and to share its beauty with the world.

Given the humid and sometimes wet weather in August, I'm glad I packed appropriately. I made sure to have my hiking boots, lightweight backpack, and water bottle. It's also a good idea to bring a portable charger and rain poncho, just in case.

As I drift off to sleep, I can't help but feel a sense of anticipation for what tomorrow holds. The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire, and I'm eager to see what other hidden gems and profound experiences await me on this sacred journey.