Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Nature and History

Today was a day of serene exploration and natural wonders, a perfect blend of Kumano's scenic beauty and spiritual essence. I ventured into the heart of the Kii Peninsula, ready to immerse myself in the tranquil embrace of Doro Kyo Gorge and the historical whispers of the Kumano River. It was a day to remember, filled with breathtaking views and moments of quiet reflection.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse. The teahouse itself is a gem, nestled along the Kumano Kodo. The warm welcome and traditional Japanese teas set the perfect tone for the day ahead. I savored every sip, enjoying the serene setting and views of the lush greenery. It was a great start to the day, and definitely a place I'd recommend to anyone passing through. I made sure to thank the staff for their recommendations on what to see in the area, before setting off to Doro Kyo Gorge.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

Journey Through Doro Kyo Gorge

Arriving at Doro Kyo Gorge, I was immediately struck by the majestic cliffs and the emerald-green river snaking through them. The gorge is renowned for its panoramic views and tranquil atmosphere, a true testament to the beauty of Japan's natural landscapes. I decided to explore the area on foot, taking advantage of the walking trails that wind through the gorge. The trails cater to different skill levels, so I was able to find a path that suited my experience. As I walked, the soothing sounds of flowing water and chirping birds created an enchanting atmosphere.

One of the highlights of Doro Kyo Gorge is the Yamabiko Bridge, a suspension bridge connecting Mie Prefecture to Nara Prefecture. Crossing the bridge was an exhilarating experience, as it swayed gently with each step. From the middle of the bridge, I enjoyed spectacular views of the gorge. I couldn't resist shouting a loud Heyyy! just to hear my voice echo back from the valley. It was a fun, lighthearted moment that perfectly captured the spirit of adventure I was embracing.

The river's voice whispers tales of ancient pilgrimages and the enduring spirit of nature, echoing through the soul.

Kumano River Cruise

After exploring Doro Kyo Gorge, I headed to the Kumano Boat River Cruise. This river has served as a vital section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route for centuries. Emperors and aristocrats once traveled these waters during their pilgrimages. The Kumano River is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, adding to its allure and historical significance.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The boat tour started at the Dorokyokaido Kumano-gawa River roadside station. As we set off, the guide shared stories about the area's history and the landmarks we passed along the way. The gentle rocking of the boat and the stunning scenery made for a peaceful and immersive experience. I learned about the unique ecosystem of the river and the efforts to preserve its natural beauty.

The traditional wooden boat, a Sandanbo riverboat, added to the authenticity of the experience. With the engine turned off, we sailed with the wind, listening to the sounds of birds and the gentle lapping of the river against the boat. It was a moment of pure serenity, connecting me to the natural world in a profound way. I thought of Lena back in Berlin, and how much she would have loved to experience this with me. Maybe one day we can come back here together.

A Taste of Local Flavors

For lunch, I stopped at Kakinoate, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. I savored a delicious meal, trying some of the regional specialties. The flavors were rich and authentic, providing a true taste of Kumano. It was a perfect opportunity to recharge and reflect on the morning's adventures.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

In the late afternoon, I visited the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, a local shop offering a variety of souvenirs and local products. I picked up a few small gifts for Lena and my family, wanting to share a piece of my journey with them. The shop also offered local cuisine, and I enjoyed a light snack while taking in the views of the surrounding mountains.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As evening approached, I made my way to Sansaro Cafe for dinner. This cozy cafe is known for its welcoming ambiance and delicious coffee. The cafe also offers lodging, making it a perfect retreat for tourists exploring the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. I enjoyed a freshly brewed coffee and a hearty meal, savoring the warmth of the homestay atmosphere. The staff was incredibly friendly, sharing recommendations on nearby hiking trails and local attractions. It felt like a true community, and I felt welcomed as one of their own.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Reflections on the Day and Anticipation for Tomorrow

As I sit here, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Doro Kyo Gorge and the Kumano River Cruise offered a perfect blend of natural beauty and historical significance. The Yamabiko Bridge was a fun and exhilarating experience, while the boat cruise provided a peaceful and immersive journey through Kumano's spiritual heartland.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Koyazaka Slope and the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. I'm looking forward to more hiking and discovering new facets of this incredible region. I'll be sure to grab breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall before heading out, and I'm already anticipating a relaxing evening at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. I'm also considering visiting the Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for lunch, and HANGOVER for dinner.

The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me. With each passing day, I feel more connected to the history, culture, and natural beauty of this sacred pilgrimage route. I'm eager to see what tomorrow brings and to continue sharing my journey with you all.

Final Thoughts

Today was a reminder of the simple joys of travel: exploring new places, connecting with nature, and immersing oneself in local culture. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery and spiritual enrichment. As I continue my pilgrimage, I carry with me the echoes of nature and history, forever grateful for the experiences I've had and the lessons I've learned.

I'm also reminded of how much I miss Lena, and I know she would have loved to experience all of this with me. I'm looking forward to the day when we can come back here together and create new memories in this magical place.