Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Ohechi Trail

Today was a blend of exploration and reflection as I continued my journey along the Kumano Kodo. The Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route - Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony offered a unique perspective, and the local eateries provided delightful culinary experiences. It was a day of connecting with both the history and the present culture of this sacred region.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery. The cozy atmosphere and the promise of traditional Japanese fare were the perfect way to start the day. I opted for a classic Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It reminded me of the simple breakfasts Lena and I often enjoy in Berlin, though the flavors here were distinctly Japanese. Sipping on green tea, I felt energized and ready for the day's hike.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
After breakfast, I set out to explore the Kumano-Kodo Ohechi Pilgrimage Route - Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony, specifically the Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony. The trail wound through lush forests, offering glimpses of the coastline. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. It was a moderate hike, with some steep inclines, but the stunning views made it all worthwhile. I couldn't help but think about how much Lena would have loved this trail. She always appreciates a good hike with breathtaking scenery, and I made a mental note to bring her here someday. The Ohechi route has a unique history, once attracting artists and writers who sought inspiration from the sea.
I spent a few hours exploring the Hokoritake-no-gunraku Colony, taking in the panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. The rugged coastline and the dense forests created a stunning contrast, a reminder of the raw beauty of nature. It was a peaceful experience, a chance to disconnect from the noise of everyday life and reconnect with myself. I even took some photos, hoping to capture the essence of this special place.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and cultural heritage.

For lunch, I stopped at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This charming eatery is located in the heart of Yunomine Onsen, a town famous for its ancient hot springs. I decided to try one of their teishoku sets, a traditional Japanese meal with a variety of small dishes. The set included rice, miso soup, pickles, and a main course of grilled fish. The flavors were delicate and refined, a testament to the quality of the local ingredients. The Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall also serves as a newsstand, providing local news and travel information.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
After lunch, I took some time to explore Yunomine Onsen. The town is small and quaint, with a peaceful atmosphere. I visited Tsuboyu, a small bath that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The waters are said to change color seven times a day and are believed to have healing properties. Although I didn't have time for a soak, I enjoyed walking around and soaking in the atmosphere. According to legend, Yunomine Onsen owes its medicinal waters to the Buddha of healing, Yakushi Nyorai.
In the late afternoon, I made my way to Third Place Kumano Kodo. This unique establishment is an old farmhouse that has been converted into a guesthouse and gathering place. I was drawn to its rustic charm and its reputation for promoting local culture. I spent some time chatting with the owner, Mr. Tetsuyama, who is passionate about sharing the traditions of the Kumano region. He told me about his organic farm and the various crops he grows. It was inspiring to see someone so dedicated to preserving the local heritage.

Experience the serene charm of Third Place Kumano Kodo, a budget-friendly inn along the historic Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route in Wakayama, Japan.
As evening approached, I decided to check out Why Kumano, a local bar. I was curious to experience the nightlife in this remote area. The bar had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with a mix of locals and tourists. I ordered a local craft beer and struck up a conversation with a few fellow travelers. It was interesting to hear their stories and perspectives on the Kumano Kodo. The bartender was friendly and knowledgeable, offering recommendations for other places to visit in the area. Why Kumano is conveniently located near the Kii-Katsuura train station.

Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.
For dinner, I opted for Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This charming restaurant is housed in a renovated 130-year-old house, adding to its appeal. I tried the Mehari-zushi, a local specialty made with pickled mustard leaves. The tangy flavor was unique and delicious, a perfect representation of the local cuisine. I also enjoyed the peaceful ambiance of the restaurant, a perfect way to end a day of exploration.

Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
As I reflect on today's experiences, I'm struck by the sense of connection I feel to this region. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and cultural heritage. The Ohechi Pilgrimage Route offered stunning coastal views. The local eateries provided a taste of authentic Japanese cuisine. The people I met along the way shared their stories and perspectives, enriching my understanding of this special place. I am grateful for the opportunity to experience this journey, and I look forward to what tomorrow brings.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree and the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. I'm also looking forward to visiting the Toretore Market, a local shop, and trying some new restaurants. I'm excited to see what new discoveries await me on the next leg of my Kumano Kodo adventure.
As I prepare for tomorrow, I can't help but feel a sense of anticipation. The Kumano Kodo has already exceeded my expectations, and I know that there are still many more wonders to uncover. I am grateful for this opportunity to explore the spiritual heart of Japan and to connect with its rich history and culture.

What I am most grateful for is the prospect of sharing all of this with Lena. I already know she will absolutely adore this place. As I drift off to sleep, I'm already planning our next adventure together, perhaps even a return to the sacred trails of Kumano Kodo. I can already imagine us strolling through the ancient forests, hand in hand, discovering the hidden gems of Japan together. Good night from Kumano Kodo!