Solo Pilgrimage Along the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Serene Waters and Stone Pathways

Today was a day of contrasts, seamlessly blending the tranquility of Kumano's rivers with the historical weight of its ancient pathways. It was a day to soak in the natural beauty and reflect on the deep spiritual roots of this incredible region. I started my day with a hearty breakfast, fueled by anticipation for the adventures that lay ahead.

My morning began at the Watarase Onsen cafe, a cozy spot known for its traditional Japanese breakfast sets. I savored the delicate flavors of grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables, all while enjoying the peaceful ambiance of the onsen town. It’s moments like these, simple yet profound, that remind me why I love to travel solo – the freedom to fully immerse myself in the local culture and savor every detail.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

With a full stomach and a sense of adventure, I set off for the Kumano River, eager to experience the Kumano Boat River Cruise. The journey to the boat launch was an adventure in itself, a scenic bus ride through winding mountain roads. The anticipation built as the landscape unfolded, revealing glimpses of the river snaking through the verdant valleys.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The Kumano River Cruise was nothing short of magical. The traditional wooden boat glided gently along the clear waters, surrounded by lush greenery and the sounds of nature. Our guide shared captivating stories about the river's history and its significance as a pilgrimage route, once used by emperors and nobles. As we floated downstream, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the countless pilgrims who had traveled these waters centuries ago. The gentle swaying of the boat and the informative commentary created an unforgettable experience. The riverbanks were dotted with picturesque villages, reminders of the resilience of the local communities in the face of natural disasters.

The river whispered tales of ancient pilgrims and the enduring spirit of Kumano, a journey through time and nature.

After the cruise, I was ready for lunch. I headed to Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming restaurant known for its local specialties. I decided to try the Mehari-zushi, a type of sushi wrapped in pickled mustard leaves. The tangy flavor of the mustard leaves perfectly complemented the savory rice and fish, a true culinary delight. The restaurant itself was a beautifully renovated traditional house, adding to the overall charm of the experience. It was a delightful experience, a chance to connect with the community and learn more about the traditions of this sacred place.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

In the afternoon, I decided to tackle the Daimon Gate, an iconic part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The Daimon-zaka is an impressive cobblestone staircase slope which runs from the base of the valley to Kumano Nachi Taisha. Lined with towering cedar and cypress trees, the Daimon-zaka trail offered a serene and mystical atmosphere. As I ascended the stone steps, I was enveloped in a sense of awe and tranquility. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating a dappled effect on the moss-covered stones, and the air was filled with the scent of cedar and damp earth. The Daimon-zaka trail is not just a path; it's a journey through time, a connection to the ancient pilgrims who walked these same steps centuries ago. The stone staircase is about 600 meters long with 267 stairs.


Discover the serene beauty of Daimon Gate, Koyasan’s iconic Buddhist temple and historical landmark, where spirituality meets stunning architecture.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to a Kumano beef dinner at Hinoki Steak House. Known for its high-quality local beef, Hinoki offered a culinary experience that was both indulgent and satisfying. I savored each bite of the tender and flavorful steak, perfectly grilled and seasoned. The restaurant had a cozy and intimate atmosphere, making it a perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploration.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

To cap off the evening, I ventured to Wine Kumano, a local bar known for its selection of natural wines and craft beers. The bar had a relaxed and inviting vibe, and I enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff and fellow patrons. I sampled a few different wines, each one unique and delicious. It was the perfect way to reflect on the day's adventures and soak in the local atmosphere.


Discover the perfect blend of local flavors and fine wines at Wine Kumano, a hidden gem in Wakayama's culinary scene.

Tomorrow marks the final day of my pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. I plan to visit Kumano Kodo Park and Yoshino Kumano National Park. I’m also looking forward to some last-minute souvenir shopping at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. It’s a bittersweet feeling, knowing that my journey is coming to an end, but I’m also filled with gratitude for the incredible experiences and connections I’ve made along the way. The Kumano Kodo has a way of getting under your skin, leaving you with a sense of peace and a longing to return.

I am also grateful that I did not forget to bring my hiking boots, camera, travel journal, lightweight backpack and water bottle. Although I was reminded that I forgot my portable charger and rain poncho, I was able to fully enjoy the day.

I am also reminded of Lena, and how much she would have enjoyed this trip. I will be back, and next time it will be with her.

As I prepare for my final day on the Kumano Kodo, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I've had and the beauty I've witnessed. This pilgrimage has been more than just a hike; it's been a journey of self-discovery and connection to something larger than myself. And as I look ahead to returning to Berlin, I know that the memories and lessons of the Kumano Kodo will stay with me long after I've left its sacred trails.

The August weather has been warm and humid, with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 29°C. There have been occasional showers, but overall, the weather has been manageable. It's important to stay hydrated and wear appropriate clothing for the conditions.

I've learned a lot about myself and the world around me on this journey. I've also gained a deeper appreciation for the beauty and simplicity of Japanese culture. I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you all.

Until tomorrow,
Giorgos