Exploring the Art and Culture of Naoshima Island

Whispers of Art and Time

Today, Naoshima revealed another layer of its captivating soul. It was a day of quiet reflection amidst powerful art, a journey through spaces that challenged my perceptions and stirred my emotions. The island’s rhythm, a blend of contemporary expression and timeless tradition, continues to enchant me.

My day began with a simple breakfast at Café Ippo. Tucked away near the Art House Project, this charming spot felt like stepping into someone's home. A friendly couple greeted me, and I enjoyed a strong cup of Japanese coffee while observing the locals starting their day. It’s these small, authentic moments that truly enrich a travel experience. It reminded me of the cozy cafes back in Ísafjörður, where the aroma of coffee mingles with the gentle hum of conversation.


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

Fuelled by caffeine and anticipation, I set off to the Lee Ufan Museum. Designed by Tadao Ando, the museum itself is a work of art, a symphony of concrete, light, and space. The minimalist architecture perfectly complements Lee Ufan’s art, which invites contemplation and introspection.


Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

Art is not about creating something beautiful; it's about revealing something true.

The museum is nestled into the landscape, almost hidden, which adds to the sense of discovery. Inside, the exhibits feature Lee Ufan's paintings and sculptures, each piece carefully placed to interact with the surrounding environment. The installations, often composed of simple materials like stone and steel, evoke a sense of serenity and balance. I found myself drawn to the Silence Room, a space with a large steel plate leaning against the wall. Its imposing presence was both mysterious and calming, reminiscent of the monoliths in the film *2001: A Space Odyssey*.

After the Lee Ufan Museum, I ventured into the Art House Project in the Honmura district. This project transforms abandoned houses into contemporary art installations, breathing new life into the traditional neighborhood. It’s an adventurous attempt to revive the area by combining contemporary art with the existing houses. The project began in 1998 with Kadoya, and now includes seven locations: Kadoya, Minamidera, Kinza, Go'o Shrine, Ishibashi, Gokaisho, and Haisha.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

My first stop was Minamidera, a building designed by Tadao Ando on the site of a former temple. Inside, I experienced James Turrell's “Backside of the Moon,” an intriguing art piece that plays with your perception of light. The experience was disorienting and profound, challenging my senses and expanding my understanding of space. Visitors are allowed to enter the building every 15 minutes, and advance reservations are recommended.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Next, I visited Kadoya, the first house transformed in the Art House Project. This 200-year-old house features Tatsuo Miyajima’s “Sea of Time '98,” an installation with digital counters submerged in water. The artwork uses digital counters submerged in water to symbolize the flow of time and human connection. The times of each LED were determined by the residents of the town, which makes it a resident-participation type of installation. The blend of traditional architecture and contemporary art created a unique and immersive experience. Each visit offers a different experience, as the water's reflections and movement change. It is a participatory, immersive art installation that requires visitors to become part of the artwork.

Walking through the Honmura district, I felt a deep connection to the community. The Art House Project not only showcases art but also revitalizes the area, fostering interaction between visitors and local residents. It's a truly organic project that changes day-to-day, and has evolved to present a new model of community, characterized by positive interaction between urban and rural, young and old, residents, and visitors. The houses are lined with outer walls made from burned cedar boards, creating a unique and captivating atmosphere.

For lunch, I chose Chikurin, an Izakaya tavern. This place isn't fancy at all, but the sashimi and grilled fish are top notch! The restaurant is run by one man who does everything from taking orders to cooking food, serving drinks, and washing dishes — all while entertaining his regulars. I savored a simple yet delicious meal of fresh seafood, a testament to the island's culinary offerings. The friendly atmosphere and the taste of local flavors were a welcome break from the intensity of the art experiences.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

In the evening, I treated myself to dinner at Cin.na.mon, a stylish restaurant and bar near Miyanoura Port. The Naoshima seafood curry was especially delicious, with a lighter curry flavor and a hint of citrus. The nanban chili mayo fried chicken was also great and generously portioned. The service was fast, and the waiter spoke excellent English. The restaurant had a funky ambiance and traditional tatami rooms, making it a unique dining experience.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors in an artistic setting at Cin.na.mon, Naoshima's charming café and restaurant.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Bar SARU, a cozy spot where locals and tourists mingled. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming. The walls were covered in graffiti, and the music was a mix of American hip hop. I enjoyed a gin and tonic while chatting with a few other travelers, sharing stories and impressions of Naoshima. This little hole in the wall was just what I needed after a day of artistic immersion. The place is small but super sweet, cocktails are really good and super super cheap.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by how Naoshima seamlessly blends art and life. The island is not just a destination; it's an experience that engages the senses and nourishes the soul. Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Art House Project: Go'o Shrine, Ando Museum, and Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I'm also looking forward to visiting the Naoshima Shop Umihotaru. Each day here brings new discoveries and deeper connections to this unique island.

The sun has now set, casting long shadows across the Seto Inland Sea. As I write this, I can hear the gentle lapping of waves against the shore, a soothing soundtrack to my reflections. Naoshima continues to surprise and inspire me, and I am grateful for the opportunity to explore its art and culture. Tonight, I will sleep soundly, dreaming of the art that whispers through the island's soul. Until tomorrow, takk fyrir í dag (thank you for today).