Exploring the Art and Culture of Naoshima Island

A Day of Discovery in Honmura
Today was a day of immersing myself in the more intimate aspects of Naoshima, moving beyond the grand museums and into the community's heart. It was a day of quiet reflection, unexpected encounters, and a deeper understanding of how art intertwines with daily life on this captivating island.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Ebisukamo. The reviews I had read online mentioned the cozy atmosphere and authentic Japanese dishes, and it did not disappoint. The owner greeted me with a warm smile, and I settled in for a delicious meal of miso soup, grilled fish, and local pickles. It was a delightful way to start the day, fueling me for the explorations ahead.

After breakfast, I made my way to the Art House Project, specifically the Go'o Shrine. Tucked away in the Honmura district, this project is a fascinating blend of traditional architecture and contemporary art. As I approached the shrine, I was struck by its serene setting. Perched on a hill overlooking the sea, it offered a sense of tranquility that was immediately calming.


Discover the serene Art House Project: Go'o Shrine in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets traditional Shinto spirituality in a breathtaking setting.

The Go'o Shrine itself is a work of art, a reinterpretation of a traditional Shinto shrine infused with modern artistic concepts. The artist, Hiroshi Sugimoto, has created a space that encourages contemplation and reflection. The most striking feature is the glass staircase that leads down into an underground chamber. As I descended, sunlight filtered through the glass, casting shifting patterns of light into the subterranean space. It felt like entering another world, a place where the visible and invisible, the material and spiritual, converged. It was a deeply moving experience, one that resonated with my own interests in Nordic mythology and the unseen forces that shape our lives.

Art doesn't transform. It just plain forms.

Next on my itinerary was the Ando Museum, dedicated to the work of the renowned architect Tadao Ando. I have long admired Ando's minimalist yet thought-provoking designs, and I was eager to learn more about his connection to Naoshima. The museum is located in a renovated traditional wooden house, a testament to Ando's ability to blend the old with the new. From the outside, it appears unassuming, blending seamlessly with the surrounding streetscape. But inside, a labyrinth of concrete walls, hidden passages, and unexpected openings reveals a masterful interplay of light and shadow.


Discover the Ando Museum in Naoshima, a stunning fusion of contemporary art and architecture by Tadao Ando, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

The museum showcases Ando's architectural philosophy, his belief that architecture can inspire introspection and connection. As I wandered through the exhibits, I was struck by the way he uses light to create a sense of drama and serenity. The concrete walls, often perceived as cold and austere, are transformed into canvases that reflect the changing light throughout the day. It was a powerful reminder of the beauty that can be found in simplicity and the importance of respecting the natural environment.

Lunch was a simple affair at Little Plum, a cozy cafe/bar just around the corner from the I Love Yu bathhouse. I opted for their house special dry curry, which was flavorful and satisfying. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, and I enjoyed chatting with the staff about their favorite spots on the island. It's these small, local establishments that truly give Naoshima its unique character.


Experience the essence of Naoshima at Little Plum, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a serene setting.

In the afternoon, I decided to indulge in a truly unique experience: a visit to the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. Designed by artist Shinro Ohtake, this bathhouse is both a functional public onsen and an extraordinary art installation. From the outside, it's a whimsical structure adorned with colorful mosaic tiles, a giant elephant statue, and a prominent YU sign. It feels more like an entryway to a world of creativity and imagination than a traditional bathhouse.


Experience the unique blend of relaxation and art at Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu, a must-visit destination for tranquility and cultural immersion.

Stepping inside, I was immediately immersed in an artistic journey. Every inch of the interior is a canvas for colorful and intricate designs. As I soaked in the warm water, surrounded by the playful and stimulating surroundings, I felt the stress of the day melt away. It was a multi-sensory experience, a reminder that art can be more than something to observe – it can be a part of everyday living. It was also a reminder of the importance of community, as locals and visitors mingled in this shared space, bridging the gap between art and daily life.

Before dinner, I stopped by Naoshima Shop Umihotaru to pick up a few souvenirs. The shop had a variety of local crafts and snacks, and I found a beautiful hand-painted ceramic bowl that will remind me of my time on the island. The staff was friendly and helpful, offering recommendations for other shops and attractions to visit.


Experience the artistic spirit of Naoshima at Shop Umihotaru, where local flavors meet breathtaking views in a charming cafe setting.

For dinner, I had made a reservation at New Olympia (sushi), a local izakaya run by a father-son duo. The staff at My Lodge Naoshima had recommended it, and I was eager to try their fresh sushi. I was not disappointed. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the sides were flavorful and well-prepared. The atmosphere was cozy and traditional, with tatami floors and friendly service. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Naoshima's art and culture.


Experience authentic sushi in Naoshima at New Olympia – where fresh ingredients meet traditional Japanese artistry.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I am struck by the way Naoshima seamlessly blends art and daily life. The Art House Project, the Ando Museum, and the I Love Yu bathhouse are all examples of how art can be integrated into the community, creating spaces that are both functional and inspiring. It's a testament to the vision of the Benesse Art Site Naoshima, which has transformed this once-sleepy island into a world-renowned cultural destination.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of the Honmura district, visiting the Seaside Gallery and the Honmura Lounge & Archive. I'm also looking forward to seeing the Red Pumpkin, another iconic work by Yayoi Kusama. And perhaps, if the mood strikes, I'll end the day with a drink at BAR Queen's-Q Naoshima. I am also hoping to remember to apply sunscreen, as I forgot to do that today and my fair Icelandic skin is feeling a bit sensitive. I am also going to make sure my portable charger is fully charged for tomorrow, as I nearly ran out of battery on my camera today.

Naoshima continues to surprise and delight me, and I am grateful for the opportunity to experience its unique blend of art, culture, and natural beauty.

I am so glad I decided to come on this solo adventure. Maximilian and Astrid would have loved it here, but it has been nice to have some time to myself to reflect and recharge.

Until tomorrow!

Guðrún