A Solo Adventure in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Guardians of Time

Today, I ventured deeper into the heart of Yakushima, seeking out the ancient sentinels that have stood watch over this island for millennia. It was a day of profound connection with nature, a reminder of the enduring power and wisdom of the natural world. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the silence was broken only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional call of a distant bird.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. I had read about their delicious coffee and sandwiches, and it was the perfect way to fuel up before heading into the forests. The cafe was cozy, and the staff were incredibly friendly, making me feel right at home. Sipping my coffee, I looked out over the Anbo harbor, the gentle morning light painting the water in hues of gold and silver. It was a peaceful start to what promised to be an extraordinary day.

My first destination was Yakusugi Land, a nature park renowned for its collection of ancient Yakushima cedars, or yakusugi. These trees, over 1,000 years old, are living monuments to the passage of time. Getting there involved a scenic drive, the road winding its way up into the mountains, each turn revealing breathtaking vistas of the island's lush interior. I made a mental note to remind Olivia and Thando that this is a place we all need to visit together as a family one day. I know they'd both love it.

Arriving at Yakusugi Land, I paid the entrance fee and grabbed a map, eager to explore the network of trails that crisscross the park. There were several courses to choose from, ranging from a leisurely 30-minute stroll to a more challenging 2.5-hour hike. Given my eagerness to soak in as much as possible, I opted for one of the longer routes. The trails were well-maintained, a mix of boardwalks and natural paths, making it easy to navigate the sometimes rugged terrain.

As I ventured deeper into Yakusugi Land, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale and majesty of the ancient cedars. These weren't just trees; they were living sculptures, their gnarled trunks and sprawling branches telling stories of centuries of weathering storms and witnessing the slow, steady march of time. The forest floor was a carpet of vibrant green moss, adding to the ethereal, almost otherworldly atmosphere. It felt like stepping into a realm where time had little meaning, where the past, present, and future were intertwined.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Yakusugi Land was the presence of second-generation cedars, trees that had grown atop the stumps of their predecessors. These resilient trees, with their unique shapes and forms, were a testament to the enduring power of nature, a symbol of renewal and regeneration. I found myself stopping frequently, camera in hand, trying to capture the essence of this ancient forest, wanting to do justice to the grandeur of the trees and the serenity of the surroundings. I wished I had remembered to pack my extra SD cards, as I was already starting to run out of space on my camera!

Along the trail, I encountered several notable yakusugi, each with its own distinctive character and name. The Buddhasugi, with its serene, almost meditative presence, the Futagosugi, a pair of intertwined cedars that seemed to embrace each other, and the Sennensugi, a thousand-year-old giant that exuded an aura of timeless wisdom. Standing in the presence of these ancient beings, I felt a sense of humility and awe, a profound connection to something far greater than myself.

I paused for a moment, closing my eyes, listening to the whispers of the wind as it rustled through the canopy above. It was as if the trees themselves were speaking, sharing their stories, their secrets, their enduring wisdom. I felt a sense of peace wash over me, a feeling of being grounded and connected to the earth, to the very essence of life itself.

In the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests, time seems to fade away, leaving only the whispers of the wind and the enduring presence of the cedars.

Leaving Yakusugi Land, I drove further up into the mountains to visit the Kigensugi Cedar, another of Yakushima's famed ancient trees. Unlike the yakusugi in the park, the Kigensugi is located right beside the road, making it easily accessible. Despite its proximity to the road, the Kigensugi was no less impressive. This massive cedar, estimated to be around 3,000 years old, stood tall and proud, its weathered trunk bearing the marks of countless seasons. It was humbling to stand in the presence of such an ancient being, to contemplate the centuries of history it had witnessed.

It's incredible to think that this tree was already ancient when my ancestors in South Africa were building their own communities and cultures. It really puts things into perspective. The Kigensugi is also home to a variety of epiphytes, plants that grow on its branches, adding to its unique character. Yakushima rhododendrons and Japanese rowan trees find a home on its sturdy branches, creating a vibrant ecosystem within the tree itself. It's a testament to the interconnectedness of life, how even the oldest and grandest of beings can provide sustenance and shelter to others.

After paying my respects to the Kigensugi, it was time for lunch. I stopped at Matsutake, a soba restaurant in the Kurio district. It was a bit of a drive, but the promise of authentic Japanese soba noodles was too enticing to resist. Tucked away in a quiet corner of the island, the restaurant exuded a traditional charm, with tatami mats and a serene atmosphere. I enjoyed a delicious bowl of cold soba noodles with tempura, the perfect meal to replenish my energy after a day of hiking. The owners were incredibly kind and the service was prompt, making the experience all the more enjoyable.

In the late afternoon, I made my way to YAKUSHIMA BLESS, a shop in Anbo that focuses on sustainable economic activities using the island's natural resources, particularly the Yakusugi Cedar. I'd read about their commitment to the environment and was curious to see their products. The shop had a minimalist design with a calming fragrance of incense, creating a serene atmosphere. I learned that the shop is a new take on the Takeda Pavilion, which was opened in 1903 by the wife's grandmother, focusing on forestry with the Yakusugi Cedar.

I was impressed by their range of items crafted from Yakusugi Cedar, from home decor to personal accessories. It was inspiring to see how they were utilizing the cedar in a sustainable way, paying respect to the environment while creating beautiful and functional products. I picked up a few small souvenirs for Olivia and Thando, wanting to share a piece of Yakushima's beauty with them. I also grabbed a small block of cedar wood for myself, hoping to bring a bit of the island's tranquility back home to Kelowna.

For dinner, I decided to try Kamogawa Restaurant, known for its seafood and local dishes. The owner of Tirol, where I am staying, runs this restaurant, and I had heard good things about it. The restaurant was bustling with both locals and tourists, a testament to its popularity. I ordered a sashimi set, eager to sample the fresh seafood that Yakushima is famous for. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the presentation was beautiful, a work of art in itself. It was a delightful meal, a perfect end to a day of exploring the island's natural wonders.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and serenity of Yakushima. The ancient cedars, the lush forests, the tranquil atmosphere – it's all been incredibly restorative. I'm looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to visit Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls, continuing my exploration of this remarkable island. Before that though, I need to remember to buy insect repellent and sunscreen, as those pesky mosquitoes are still out in full force, and the sun is stronger than I thought! I'm also excited to try a new restaurant, a heavenly kitchen, for dinner tomorrow. But for now, I'm content to drift off to sleep, dreaming of ancient cedars and whispering winds.

I know that tomorrow I will be visiting Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls, and I'm already anticipating the breathtaking views and the soothing sounds of cascading water. I'm also planning to stop by Ambar, a local bar, to unwind and perhaps meet some fellow travelers. As I prepare for another day of exploration, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead.