A Solo Adventure in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was the day I’d been anticipating since I booked my flights to Japan – the trek to Jōmon Sugi, Yakushima’s legendary ancient cedar. It was more than just a hike; it was a pilgrimage into the heart of an ancient forest, a journey through time itself. I knew it would be challenging, but the allure of standing before a tree that has witnessed millennia was too strong to resist. The weather forecast predicted a mix of sun and showers, typical for Yakushima in July, so I packed my rain gear and hoped for the best.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at Aqua Cafe in town. I opted for their highly recommended omurice; the fluffy hamburger steak was the perfect start to a long day of hiking. The cafe was already buzzing with fellow adventurers, all eager to tackle the trails. I overheard snippets of conversations in various languages, united by a shared sense of excitement and anticipation.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

After breakfast, I made my way to the Arakawa Trailhead. The bus ride was an experience in itself, winding through narrow mountain roads, offering glimpses of the island’s dramatic landscape. The air was thick with humidity, a reminder of Yakushima’s subtropical climate.

The Arakawa Trail is the most popular route to Jōmon Sugi, and for good reason. The first 8 kilometers follow an old railway line, making the initial stretch relatively easy. As I walked along the tracks, I imagined the loggers of the past, transporting massive cedar logs down the mountain. The remnants of the logging village of Kosugidani were a stark reminder of the island's history, a time when these ancient forests were under threat.

The forest knows secrets that no one else knows.

The trail gradually transitioned from the railway line to a more traditional mountain path. The terrain became steeper and more challenging, but the scenery was breathtaking. Towering cedars, their gnarled branches draped in moss, lined the trail. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow. The air was filled with the sounds of the forest – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and the gentle murmur of streams.

Along the way, I stopped at Wilson’s Stump, another iconic landmark on the Jōmon Sugi trail. Named after the British botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who documented the stump in 1914, it is the remains of a giant cedar that was felled centuries ago. The sheer size of the stump was awe-inspiring, a testament to the immense scale of these ancient trees. I ventured inside the hollow stump and looked up through the heart-shaped opening, a view that is said to bring good luck in love. The history of Wilson's Stump is quite interesting; it's believed the tree was cut down in the 16th century on the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, a powerful daimyo, to build a temple in Kyoto.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

The final stretch of the hike to Jōmon Sugi was the most challenging, but also the most rewarding. The trail climbed steeply through a dense forest, requiring careful footwork and a good level of fitness. I passed fellow hikers, exchanging words of encouragement and sharing in the collective anticipation of reaching our destination.

Finally, after hours of trekking, I arrived at Jōmon Sugi. The sight of the ancient cedar was truly breathtaking. Standing on the observation platform, I gazed up at the massive tree, its gnarled trunk and branches reaching towards the sky. It was impossible to comprehend the age of this living giant, estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old. I felt a sense of reverence and awe, a connection to something ancient and enduring.

I spent some time simply admiring Jōmon Sugi, soaking in the atmosphere of the ancient forest. The tree exuded a sense of peace and tranquility, a reminder of the enduring power of nature. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of my own insignificance in the grand scheme of things.

The descent from Jōmon Sugi was physically demanding, but my spirits were high. I felt a sense of accomplishment and gratitude for having had the opportunity to witness such a magnificent natural wonder. As I made my way back along the trail, I reflected on the day’s experiences.

I grabbed lunch at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. I opted for the flying fish ramen, a local specialty. The broth was rich and flavorful, and the flying fish was surprisingly tender. It was the perfect way to replenish my energy after the long hike.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

As evening approached, I decided to treat myself to a relaxing drink at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. This quirky establishment combines the atmosphere of a cafe with the fun of a karaoke bar. I enjoyed a refreshing cocktail while listening to fellow patrons belt out their favorite tunes. It was a fun and lively way to end the day.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

For dinner, I chose SamPotei, a highly-rated restaurant known for its local cuisine. I sampled some of the island’s specialties, including fresh seafood and locally grown vegetables. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was the perfect way to cap off a day of adventure.


Experience the flavors of Japan at SamPotei, where traditional izakaya meets modern culinary artistry in the heart of Yakushima.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and see the Kigensugi Cedar. I'm also hoping to pick up a few souvenirs at YAKUSHIMA BLESS. I'm looking forward to another day of exploring Yakushima's natural wonders.

Back at my guesthouse, I reflected on the day's journey. The hike to Jōmon Sugi was more than just a physical challenge; it was a spiritual experience. Standing before that ancient cedar, I felt a connection to the past, a sense of the enduring power of nature. It was a day I will never forget.

Despite having forgotten insect repellent and sunscreen, the day was a resounding success. I'll be sure to pack those essentials for tomorrow's adventure!

As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to explore this magical island. Yakushima had already exceeded my expectations, and I knew that the days to come would be filled with even more unforgettable experiences. This solo adventure was turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to connect with nature, challenge myself physically, and reflect on my place in the world. Perhaps I'll convince Olivia and Thando to come back with me next time!

It's funny, I remember back in Kimberley, South Africa, listening to my grandfather's stories about the ancient baobab trees, feeling a similar sense of awe. Nature truly has a way of connecting us to something bigger than ourselves. What a day!

What a day!