A Solo Adventure in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Stepping into a Living Dream

Today marked the start of an incredible journey, a solo expedition into the heart of Yakushima. As a software developer from Kelowna with a deep love for nature and photography, I've always dreamt of exploring this island's ancient forests. Leaving behind Olivia and Thando was tough, but I knew this adventure would be something special. I was eager to immerse myself in the serene environment, hike through the cedar forests, and capture the breathtaking landscapes that Yakushima is famous for. Today was all about setting the stage for the days to come, soaking in the atmosphere, and getting my bearings in this natural wonderland.

After a long journey from Kelowna, involving multiple flights and a ferry ride, I finally arrived on Yakushima. The air was thick with humidity, typical for July, but carried a freshness that hinted at the pristine wilderness surrounding me. My first order of business was breakfast, and the Yakushima Airport Restaurant was the perfect spot to grab a bite and plan my day. The old-school vibe of the place was charming, reminiscent of traditional soba shops, and the local flavors were a welcome introduction to Yakushima's cuisine. I opted for a simple but satisfying set meal, fueling up for the day's adventures.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I headed to the Yakushima World Heritage Conservation Center. As a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, Yakushima holds a special place in the world, and I wanted to understand its significance before venturing deeper into the island. The center provided a wealth of information about Yakushima National Park and its unique environment. I was fascinated by the exhibits showcasing the island's diverse flora and fauna, learning about the different plant species that thrive at varying altitudes. The 3D map of the national park terrain was particularly helpful, giving me a sense of the island's topography and the challenges I might encounter on my hikes.


Explore the rich biodiversity and unique ecosystems of Yakushima at the World Heritage Conservation Center, a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts.

The center also highlighted the importance of protecting Yakushima's delicate ecosystem, emphasizing the need for responsible hiking practices. As someone passionate about wildlife conservation, I appreciated the center's efforts to educate visitors about minimizing their environmental impact. I made a mental note to be extra mindful of my actions as I explored the island, ensuring that I left no trace behind.

The forest is not a resource to be exploited, but a sanctuary to be revered.

Next on the agenda was the Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a location that has captivated me through countless photos and documentaries. Known for its lush, moss-covered forests and crystal-clear streams, Shiratani Unsui Gorge is said to have inspired the scenery in Hayao Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*. As a fan of Studio Ghibli, I couldn't resist the opportunity to walk through the landscape that influenced one of my favorite animated films.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The hike through Shiratani Unsui Gorge was nothing short of magical. The air was cool and damp, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow. Every surface was covered in a thick carpet of moss, transforming the forest into a vibrant green wonderland. I felt like I had stepped into another world, a realm of ancient spirits and hidden wonders. I paused frequently to take photos, trying to capture the beauty of the surroundings, but I knew that no image could truly convey the feeling of being there.

The trails were well-maintained but still offered a sense of adventure. I carefully navigated the rocky paths, crossing over babbling brooks and marveling at the towering cedar trees that lined the gorge. The silence of the forest was broken only by the sound of the water and the occasional chirping of birds. It was a welcome respite from the noise and chaos of modern life, a chance to reconnect with nature and find inner peace.

I explored the Kokemusu Forest, the area most closely associated with *Princess Mononoke*. The moss-covered rocks and trees created a surreal landscape, and I could easily imagine the forest spirits that Miyazaki had brought to life in his film. I spent a long time simply sitting on a rock, listening to the sounds of the forest and soaking in the atmosphere. It was a truly unforgettable experience.

By late afternoon, I was starting to feel the effects of my journey and the hike. My stomach was also telling me it was time for lunch. I decided to head to Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant, eager to try another of Yakushima's local specialties. The restaurant was known for its creative dishes featuring flying fish, a regional delicacy. I opted for the flying fish Hitsumabushi, a dish similar to teriyaki, where chopped kabayaki flying fish is served over rice in a lacquer ware container. The set menu came with side dishes and pickled Japanese radish, and for a small extra charge, I added dessert. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, providing the perfect energy boost for the rest of the day.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.

With renewed vigor, I decided to explore the Yakushima Market. I had read that it was a great place to find local crafts, foodstuffs, and souvenirs. As I wandered through the stalls, I was impressed by the variety of goods on offer. There were locally made jams and pickles, handcrafted wooden toys, and colorful textiles. I picked up a few small items as gifts for Olivia and Thando, wanting to bring them a piece of Yakushima's charm.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Il Mare for dinner. Located near the airport, this Italian restaurant offered a welcome change of pace from the traditional Japanese cuisine I had been enjoying. I had heard that Il Mare used local ingredients in its dishes, creating a unique fusion of Italian and Yakushima flavors. I decided to try one of their pasta dishes, made with fresh seafood from the surrounding waters. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was relaxed and inviting.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

Reflecting on my first day, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience Yakushima's beauty and tranquility. As I prepare for tomorrow's hike to Jōmon Sugi and Wilson's Stump, I know that this journey will be filled with unforgettable moments and breathtaking sights. I am eager to continue exploring this magical island, capturing its essence through my lens and sharing my experiences with the world. I think I'll swing by Aqua Cafe for breakfast before I head out for my hike tomorrow – I've heard great things about their coffee.

Tomorrow promises even more adventure as I plan to tackle the trail to Jōmon Sugi, the ancient cedar, and Wilson's Stump. I'm a little nervous about the length and difficulty of the hike, but the thought of seeing those ancient giants makes it all worthwhile. I plan to pack plenty of water and snacks, and I'll be sure to wear my trusty hiking boots. I am also hoping the weather stays clear!

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to pick up insect repellent and sunscreen tomorrow. I had completely forgotten to pack them, and I knew I would need them for the long hike. It's a small oversight, but one that could make a big difference in my comfort and enjoyment of the day. For now, though, I closed my eyes and let the sounds of the forest lull me to sleep, dreaming of ancient cedars and moss-covered trails. I can't wait for tomorrow!