Family Adventure on Shikoku Island: Exploring Japan’s Hidden Gem

Swinging Through History in the Iya Valley

Today was all about embracing the wild heart of Shikoku. We ventured deep into the Iya Valley, a place so remote and rugged it feels like stepping back in time. It’s a landscape that whispers tales of ancient clans and hidden refuges, a stark contrast to the bustling cities I’m more accustomed to. As a brewery tour guide from Kelowna, I appreciate the change of pace and the chance to connect with nature.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Joyfull Kochi Otsu Shop. It’s a family restaurant, nothing fancy, but it set us up perfectly for the adventures ahead. I had a traditional Japanese breakfast set – grilled fish, miso soup, rice, and some pickled vegetables. It’s amazing how a simple meal can be so satisfying. Olivia opted for a western-style breakfast, while Ethan, predictably, went for pancakes. Fuelled up, we headed towards the Iya Valley.

The drive itself was an experience. The roads snaked through verdant mountains, with hairpin turns that tested my driving skills. It was a good thing I wasn’t sampling any craft beers just yet! The views, though, were absolutely worth it. Every corner revealed another stunning vista of forested slopes and crystal-clear rivers.

Our main destination was the famed Vine Bridge in the Iya Valley. This isn’t just any bridge; it’s a living, breathing piece of history. Made from woven vines, it sways precariously above the Iya River, a dizzying 14 meters below. The bridge is associated with the Heike Clan, who according to legend, retreated to the Iya Valley after being defeated in the Genpei War. They built these bridges as a means of crossing the valley’s deep canyons, but also as a way to quickly cut off access should their enemies pursue them. I could almost imagine them, centuries ago, scrambling across these very vines.

Crossing the bridge was definitely a thrill. The gaps between the vines are wide enough to see the water rushing below, and the whole structure sways with every step. Ethan, of course, loved it, running across with reckless abandon. Olivia was a bit more cautious, clinging to the side ropes. I took my time, soaking in the experience, feeling the history beneath my feet. It’s incredible to think that people relied on these bridges for everyday life, and I was grateful for the steel cables reinforcing it these days.

The Iya Vine Bridge isn't just a crossing; it's a journey through time, a testament to human ingenuity and resilience in the face of isolation.

After conquering the Vine Bridge, we explored more of the Iya Valley. The valley is stunning, with lush forests and the clear Iya River carving its way through the landscape. We took a leisurely walk along the riverbank, enjoying the serenity and the beauty of nature. I even managed to snap a few photos, hoping to capture the essence of this magical place. Perhaps I'll try my hand at painting some of these landscapes when I get back home; it's been a while since I picked up a brush.

For lunch, we stopped at Amekaze Shokudo, a charming little restaurant. It had a cozy atmosphere, filled with old books and the aroma of home-style cooking. I opted for a set meal featuring local vegetables and grilled fish. Olivia tried the Iya soba, a local noodle dish, while Ethan had a rice bowl with pork. The food was simple but delicious, and it felt like a truly authentic taste of Shikoku.

After lunch, we did some shopping at a local mountain bookshop. It was a quaint little place, packed with books about the region's history, culture, and folklore. I picked up a guidebook about the Shikoku Pilgrimage, thinking it might inspire a future trip. Olivia found a beautiful book of local folktales, while Ethan, surprisingly, chose a book about Japanese castles. Maybe there's hope for him yet!

For dinner, we chose Dining Room Hibari. I had heard they were known for their Katsudon, and it did not disappoint. The pork was perfectly crispy, and the egg was cooked just right. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring. Olivia had a vegetable tempura, while Ethan enjoyed a hearty bowl of ramen.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the unique charm of the Iya Valley. It’s a place where time seems to slow down, where nature reigns supreme, and where ancient traditions are still alive and well. It’s a far cry from the brewery tours I lead back in Kelowna, but it’s a reminder that there’s so much more to the world than just beer (though, admittedly, I was starting to miss a good craft brew!).

The lack of local craft beer options today has me thinking about Blue Brew Taproom, a small brewery in a nearby mountain valley in Kochi Prefecture. It's run by an American-Japanese couple who moved from Los Angeles to follow their brewing dreams. I'm definitely adding that to the list for a future day trip!

Tomorrow, we’re heading to Matsuyama, where we’ll visit Matsuyama Castle and the Dogo Onsen Main Building. I’m particularly looking forward to the onsen; after all this hiking, my muscles could definitely use a good soak. And perhaps I’ll find a local watering hole where I can sample some of Shikoku’s craft beer offerings. Until then, it’s time to rest up and prepare for another day of adventure.