Solo Exploration of Shikoku Island: Culture, Nature, and Craft Beer

Stepping Back in Time in Matsuyama

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the stoic history of Matsuyama Castle with the soothing embrace of Dogo Onsen. It’s amazing how one day can offer such different, yet equally enriching experiences. I really felt like I connected with the local culture today.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Eki-mae Shokudo. It's a proper local spot, nothing fancy, but the food was honest and filling, just what I needed to fuel a morning of exploring. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and rice. Simple, but satisfying. I made a mental note to remember that place if Olivia and I ever come back to Shikoku.


With a full stomach, I made my way towards Matsuyama Castle. The castle sits atop Mount Katsuyama, offering panoramic views of the city and the Seto Inland Sea. I decided to take one of the walking paths up the mountain, a bit of a climb, but well worth it. The air was fresh, and the trees provided a welcome respite from the sun. As I ascended, I imagined what it must have been like for the soldiers who once defended this stronghold.



Experience the grandeur of Matsuyama Castle, a historic fortress showcasing Japan's rich heritage and stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Matsuyama Castle is one of only twelve castles in Japan to have its original main keep. Built in 1603, it has witnessed centuries of history, from feudal lords to the Meiji Restoration. The castle was originally constructed by Kato Yoshiaki in 1603. Although the castle wasn't completed until 1627, Kato was transferred to Aizu before it was done. Gamō Tadatomo completed a five-story tenshu. The main keep that stands today was rebuilt in 1854. Walking through the castle grounds, I was struck by the intricate stonework and the imposing presence of the keep. Inside, there were displays of armor and artifacts, offering a glimpse into the lives of the samurai who once called this place home.

Sometimes, the best way to understand the present is to immerse yourself in the past.

After exploring every nook and cranny of the castle, I descended the mountain and headed towards Dogo Onsen. This ancient hot spring is said to be one of the oldest in Japan, with a history stretching back over 3,000 years. Legend has it that a white heron discovered the spring's healing properties, using its waters to cure an injured leg. The main building, a beautiful wooden structure built in 1894, is an iconic symbol of the town.



Discover the serene beauty and historic charm of Dogo Onsen Main Building, a must-visit onsen in Matsuyama, Japan, rich in culture and relaxation.

Before heading to the Onsen, I stopped for lunch at Osusowake Shokudo Mado. It’s a small, cozy place known for its commitment to reducing food waste and supporting the local community. The concept of Osusowake is all about sharing and paying it forward. The owner gets excess vegetables from local farmers and uses them to create delicious and affordable meals. I had a set lunch featuring local vegetables and grilled chicken. It was simple, wholesome, and incredibly tasty. It reminded me a bit of Olivia's cooking back home, always made with love and whatever fresh ingredients she can find.



Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Osusowake Shokudo Mado in Kami, Kochi - where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

Finally, it was time for the main event: Dogo Onsen. I opted for the Kami no Yu bath, the most popular option, and purchased a ticket that included access to a private resting room. Stepping into the bathhouse was like stepping back in time. The atmosphere was serene, with the gentle sound of water and the soft glow of lanterns. The water itself was wonderfully soothing, easing the aches and pains from my morning hike. According to employees at Dogo Onsen, legend says that a white egret found the hot spring over 3,000 years ago. People saw the egret dip its injured leg into the water and cure itself. This marked the beginning of Dogo Onsen.


After my bath, I relaxed in the resting room, sipping green tea and reflecting on the day. I learned that the Dogo Onsen main building was built in 1894. The mayor at the time called for donations to found it. Locals who invested in the project were given perks, like lifetime onsen passes that could be handed down through their families. I felt a sense of peace and rejuvenation wash over me. It’s easy to see why this place has been a sanctuary for centuries. I also learned that the building was designed so that no primary structural elements were positioned above the onsen waters. This was to protect the building's structural integrity.


As evening approached, I decided to explore Matsuyama's culinary scene. I strolled through the city center, eventually settling on Amekaze Shokudo for dinner. Unfortunately, I couldn't find many recent reviews on the place, but I took a chance, and it paid off! I enjoyed a delicious meal of local seafood, savoring the fresh flavors of the Seto Inland Sea.



Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Amekaze Shokudo, where delightful dishes meet stunning views of rice fields in Nankoku.

To cap off the evening, I ventured into the Irish Pub Amontillado. I know, I know, an Irish pub in Japan sounds a bit odd, but I was curious. Turns out, it was a cozy little spot with a decent selection of beers on tap. I chatted with some locals and fellow travelers, sharing stories and laughs. It was a fun way to unwind and soak in the local atmosphere. I learned they have beers from around the world and unusual cocktails.



Discover the charm of Irish Pub Amontillado in Kochi, where traditional izakaya meets the warmth of Irish hospitality, offering a unique dining experience.

Tomorrow, I’m heading to Ōboke Gorge for some more outdoor adventures. I'm looking forward to seeing the natural beauty of Shikoku and experiencing more of its hidden gems. I'll also visit the Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore [if it is open]. I'll be sure to grab breakfast at Ombelico before heading out, and plan to grab lunch at Eki-mae Shokudo. Dinner will be at Restaurant&Cafe Riina. I might also visit Shikoku Shop 88 [if I have time].


What a day! From the heights of Matsuyama Castle to the depths of Dogo Onsen, I experienced the best of what this city has to offer. It’s days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to explore, and to connect with different cultures. Now, time for a good night’s sleep, ready for another adventure tomorrow.