Solo Exploration of Shikoku Island: Culture, Nature, and Craft Beer

Kochi's Charms: Castle, Market, and Nightlife

My day began bright and early with a hearty breakfast at Joyfull Kochi Otsu Shop. It's a no-frills kind of place, but it set me up perfectly for the day ahead. I am not usually one for family restaurants, but this one hit the spot this morning. After breakfast, I made my way to the iconic Kochi Castle.

The castle dominates the city skyline, and as I approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at its imposing presence. Built in the early 1600s, Kochi Castle is one of the few original castles remaining in Japan, having survived fires and wars. I spent a couple of hours wandering through the castle grounds, exploring the main keep, gates, and palace buildings. The panoramic views of Kochi City from the top of the keep were simply breathtaking. It's amazing to think that feudal lords and samurai once walked these same halls.

I learned that Yamanouchi Kazutoyo began construction of the castle in 1601, and it was completed in 1611. The castle served as both a residence and a fortress. What sets Kochi Castle apart is that it’s the only castle in Japan with both its main keep and main palace still intact. Walking through the wooden interior, I felt transported back to the Edo period.

Leaving the castle, I decided to dive into the heart of local life at the Kochi Sunday Market. This market has been a Kochi institution for over 300 years, stretching over a kilometer along Otesuji Street. The market was established in the Edo period by Toyomasa Yamauchi, the fourth lord of Tosa.

The Sunday Market is more than just a place to shop; it's a vibrant tapestry of local life, offering a glimpse into the heart and soul of Kochi.

As I strolled along, I was immediately swept up in the lively atmosphere. Hundreds of stalls lined the street, selling everything from fresh produce and local delicacies to handicrafts and plants. The air was filled with the sounds of vendors calling out their wares and the chatter of locals and tourists alike.

I sampled some of the local specialties, including *inaka sushi* (country-style sushi made with preserved vegetables) and *imoten* (sweet potato tempura). The *inaka sushi* was a revelation, the vinegared rice perfectly complementing the earthy flavors of the vegetables. The *imoten* was fluffy and sweet, a delightful treat. I also tried a refreshing drink made with locally grown yuzu citrus fruit. The vendors were incredibly friendly, offering samples and sharing stories about their products. It was a real pleasure to connect with the local community and experience their passion for their craft.

After a morning of exploring, I was ready for a proper lunch. I chose Kohanyu, a riverside cafe known for its local ingredients and relaxed atmosphere. The cafe is located in the rural town of Kami in Kochi Prefecture. I opted for one of the daily set meals, a hamburg steak made with local beef and served with a variety of side dishes. Everything was incredibly fresh and flavorful, and I especially enjoyed the seasonal vegetables like bamboo shoots and rape blossom greens. The staff informed me that all the ingredients were sourced locally, with even the rice being organic. I finished off the meal with a glass of freshly squeezed apple, carrot, and cabbage juice.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Tosa Rokkon for dinner. This restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese cuisine and warm, welcoming ambiance. I indulged in a multi-course meal featuring local seafood and seasonal ingredients. The flavors were exquisite, and the presentation was impeccable. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Kochi's culinary delights.

I discovered that Kochi cuisine isn't just about seafood; they also focus on local brand meats like Shimanto Pork and Tosa Wagyu. I opted for a dish featuring Tosa Wagyu beef, which was incredibly tender and flavorful. The restaurant's staff were attentive and knowledgeable, guiding me through the menu and recommending sake pairings.

To cap off the evening, I decided to check out Bar Kohno, a local bar known for its extensive selection of cocktails and whiskies. The bartender was a true mixologist, crafting unique and delicious drinks. I enjoyed a couple of expertly made cocktails, chatting with the friendly locals and soaking in the cozy atmosphere.

Bar Kohno in Tokushima is known for its expertly crafted cocktails and extensive selection of whiskies. The master bartender has even won awards for his cocktail creations. It's a great place to unwind and enjoy the local nightlife.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the diversity and richness of Kochi. From its historical landmarks to its vibrant markets and culinary scene, this city has something to offer everyone. I am also struck by the friendliness of the local people. I am glad I got the chance to experience this city. I am looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to venture into the Iya Valley and explore its famous vine bridges [Iya Valley, Vine Bridge in the Iya Valley]. Before that, I will grab breakfast at Yoronotaki Gomenten. I am also planning to visit the Mountain bookshop [Mountain bookshop] after lunch at Inonakanokawazu and before dinner at Dining Room Hibari [Dining Room Hibari].

It's evenings like these that make me appreciate the freedom and spontaneity of solo travel. I can explore at my own pace, discover hidden gems, and connect with locals in a way that wouldn't be possible otherwise. I am glad that Olivia encouraged me to take this trip. I know she is having a great time back in Kelowna, but I miss her and Ethan. I am looking forward to telling them all about my adventures when I get back.

I am also glad that I didn't forget my camera today, unlike yesterday! I managed to capture some great shots of Kochi Castle and the Sunday Market. I will make sure to charge it tonight so I can take more photos tomorrow.

Tomorrow, I am heading to the Iya Valley, known for its stunning natural beauty and remote location. I am excited to explore its vine bridges and soak in its peaceful atmosphere. I have heard that the drive can be a bit challenging, so I will make sure to get an early start. I am also planning to try some of the local specialties, such as *deko mawashi* (grilled potatoes on a stick) and *soba* noodles made with local buckwheat flour. Until then, *kanpai*!