Exploring Ancient Herculaneum: A Journey Through Time

Whispers of the Past

Today was a journey into the heart of Herculaneum, a day filled with echoes of ancient Roman life and the grandeur of Bourbon aristocracy. Lena and I set out to explore some of the lesser-known, yet equally captivating, sites within this remarkable archaeological area, eager to uncover more about the daily lives of those who once called this place home.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Paninoteca Mato Mato'. It's a cozy spot, perfect for fueling up before a day of exploration. I opted for a classic panini with porchetta, while Lena enjoyed one filled with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes. Simple, yet delicious, and just what we needed to start our day.


Discover gourmet sandwiches bursting with authentic Italian flavors at Paninoteca Mato Mato in Ercolano.

First on our itinerary was the Casa dell'Alcova. As we approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. The name itself, 'House of the Alcove,' conjured images of intimate spaces and hidden stories. The Casa dell'Alcova, nestled within the Herculaneum archaeological site, offered a captivating glimpse into ancient Roman life. The house got its name from the alcove, a niche in the wall creating a secluded atmosphere. It was thought that two families lived here, with one part of the house beautifully decorated and the other more modest. This house is a mix of simple and chicly decorated rooms. It's located near the Mosaic Atrium House on Cardo IV Street.


Explore the breathtaking Casa dell'Alcova, a historical landmark in Herculaneum that reveals the splendor of ancient Roman life through its stunning frescoes and mosaics.

As we stepped inside, we were immediately struck by the state of preservation. The frescoes, though faded with time, still retained their vibrant colors, depicting scenes of daily life, mythological figures, and intricate geometric patterns. Lena, with her keen eye for design, was particularly fascinated by the details in the mosaics, marveling at the skill and artistry of the Roman craftsmen.

Wandering through the rooms, I tried to imagine what it must have been like to live here, nearly two thousand years ago. The layout of the house, with its central courtyard and surrounding chambers, offered a glimpse into the social structure of Roman society. I could almost hear the echoes of conversations, the laughter of children, and the hustle and bustle of daily life.

History is not just about dates and battles; it's about the lives of ordinary people who lived, loved, and left their mark on the world.

Next, we ventured to Villa La Favorita, one of the grand Vesuvian villas along the Golden Mile. Built in the 18th century by Ferdinando Fuga for King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, this villa exemplifies the elegance and refinement of the Bourbon period. The villa is known for its seaside park and unique layout, and it was once used by the royal family to reach Herculaneum from the sea. Unfortunately, the continuity between the park and the landing was interrupted when the railway line was built in 1839. The villa also has a wonderful annex, known as the Casina dei Mosaici, because its interior is entirely made of mosaics.


Explore the enchanting Villa La Favorita in Ercolano, where history and nature intertwine to create a breathtaking tourist experience.

The villa was originally built for the Beretta family in 1768 and eventually passed to Ferdinand IV, who used it to relocate the Naval Academy of the Kingdom of Naples. The villa also hosted celebrations for Ferdinand IV's marriage to Maria Carolina of Austria. In 1854, Enrico Alvino restored the villa, but many of its furnishings and artworks were later dispersed throughout Italy after the Bourbon defeat in 1861.

As we strolled through the grounds, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the opulence and grandeur of the villa. The architecture, with its sweeping staircases, ornate facades, and meticulously manicured gardens, spoke of a time when royalty reigned supreme. Lena was particularly impressed by the views of the Bay of Naples, which stretched out before us like a shimmering tapestry.

After soaking in the history and beauty of Villa La Favorita, we decided to indulge in a leisurely lunch at La Briciola. This charming restaurant is known for its delicious panuozzi, a local specialty. We shared a couple of different varieties, savoring the flavors of the fresh ingredients and the warm, crusty bread. The outdoor seating offered a lovely view of the town, and we enjoyed watching the locals go about their daily lives.


Experience the authentic taste of Italy at La Briciola, renowned for its delicious panuozzo and inviting atmosphere in Ercolano.

In the afternoon, we decided to explore the Mercato di Resina, a bustling street market known for its vintage and retro fashion. Originating during World War II, when items from American convoys were sold, the market has become an institution in central-southern Italy. It's a paradise for vintage enthusiasts, with everything from furs to Chanel attire, and 1970s jeans to Manolo Blahnik shoes. The market unfolds along Via Pugliano and is frequented by young people, fashion aficionados, and costume designers from Cinecittà. It’s a place where history and the culture of reuse converge, offering unique pieces at accessible prices. Lena, with her love for vintage finds, was in her element, sifting through racks of clothing and accessories, while I enjoyed watching the vibrant scene unfold around us.


Explore Mercato di Resina: a vibrant market in Ercolano, offering fresh produce, local crafts, and a taste of authentic Italian culture.

As we wandered through the market, I couldn't help but reflect on the layers of history that permeated this place. From its origins as a post-war trading hub to its current status as a mecca for vintage fashion, the Mercato di Resina has witnessed countless transformations, each leaving its mark on the fabric of the community.

In the evening, we treated ourselves to a delightful dinner at Ristorante Terrazza Quattroventi. The restaurant is located inside an old hotel from the 70s, offering a splendid position with magnificent views. We enjoyed the beautiful view. The service was quick and attentive. The food was delicious. I opted for a seafood pasta dish, while Lena chose a classic Margherita pizza. As we savored our meal, we watched the sun set over the Bay of Naples, painting the sky in hues of orange, pink, and purple.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine with breathtaking views at Ristorante Terrazza Quattroventi in Ercolano.

As the day drew to a close, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared. From the ancient ruins of Casa dell'Alcova to the Bourbon elegance of Villa La Favorita, and the vibrant energy of Mercato di Resina, Herculaneum had revealed its many layers, each more captivating than the last.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our Italian adventure, and we plan to make the most of it by visiting Sorrento. We'll start with a visit to the Villa Communale di Sorrento, followed by a walk through the Vallone dei Mulini. For dinner, we are planning to dine at La Roccia Al Vesuvio.

As I sit here, writing these words, I can't help but feel a sense of melancholy. Our time in Italy is coming to an end, but the memories we have created will last a lifetime. I am grateful for the opportunity to have shared this journey with Lena, and I look forward to many more adventures together in the years to come. And who knows, maybe we'll return to Herculaneum someday, to uncover even more of its hidden treasures.