Exploring the Historical Wonders of Kanazawa: A Solo Journey

Nature's Embrace: Mount Utatsu and the Iris Garden

Today was a day dedicated to embracing the natural beauty that Kanazawa has to offer. It's easy to get lost in the historical districts, but I wanted to experience the city from a different perspective, one that involved a bit of elevation and a lot of floral color. I was eager to see the famed iris garden and experience the views from Mount Utatsu.

My day began, as most do here, with a delightful breakfast. I made my way to Kincha-ryo, a place that exudes traditional charm. The miso soup with seafood broth was a standout, showcasing the local flavors in a way that really kickstarted my senses. It's fascinating how fermentation plays such a key role in Japanese cuisine, adding depth and umami to even the simplest dishes. I savored every spoonful, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such authentic tastes. This ryokan was once the home of a retainer of the local feudal lord, converted in 1933. I was lucky enough to have my breakfast in one of the rooms used for lunch too, where I was given a lovely little printed menu on fine paper.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set out towards Mount Utatsu. The walk itself was a pleasant journey, allowing me to observe the city slowly waking up. Mount Utatsu, or Utatsu-yama, is only 141 meters high, making it perfect for a short hike. I decided to take the trails instead of the roadway, as they promised more to see along the way. The trails were indeed shorter and offered a more immersive experience.

As I ascended, I passed small shrines scattered along the path, each with its own unique charm. The air was fresh and filled with the sounds of nature, a welcome change from the bustling city. I made it a point to stop at each shrine, offering a small prayer for continued safe travels and a deeper understanding of the local culture. The higher I climbed, the more expansive the views became, teasing what awaited me at the summit.

My first major stop was the Utatsuyama Park Hanashoubuen, the iris garden. The timing was perfect, as mid-June to mid-July is the best time to see the Japanese irises and hydrangeas in full bloom. The garden was divided into three sections: terraced iris beds, a stream with irises, and a pond with even more irises. It was truly a breathtaking sight, with 200 thousand Japanese irises of 100 varieties and 2,900 hydrangeas creating a vibrant tapestry of colors.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Utatsuyama Park Hanashoubuen in Kanazawa, a floral paradise offering serene walks and cultural experiences.

The beauty of nature lies not just in what you see, but in what it awakens within you.

I spent a good hour wandering through the garden, camera in hand, trying to capture the essence of this floral paradise. The irises, with their large, ruffled petals, were particularly captivating, and their delicate fragrance filled the air. I couldn't help but think of Marie and how much she would have loved this place. She has a fondness for flowers, and I know she would have reveled in the sheer variety and beauty of the irises. I made a mental note to find a beautiful print of irises to bring back for her. Maybe Thomas would like one too. I remember when he was little, he used to love helping Marie in the garden, carefully watering the plants and marveling at the colors.

Mount Utatsu. The final stretch was a bit challenging, but the panoramic view from the top was well worth the effort. From the Utatsuyama Bokodai Observatory, I could see the entire city of Kanazawa spread out before me, with the Sea of Japan stretching out to the horizon. I could make out the Kanazawa Castle Park, the green expanse of Kenrokuen Garden, and even the distant mountains. It was a truly awe-inspiring sight, a perfect reminder of the beauty and diversity of this region.

Tawara Restaurant, a hidden French restaurant in the Nagamachi Samurai District.


Experience exquisite French cuisine at Tawara Restaurant in Kanazawa, where elegance meets culinary artistry.

Tawara offers French cuisine with a Japanese twist, crafted by Chef Tawara, who honed his skills in Kanazawa, France, and Kyoto. The restaurant itself exudes a warm and inviting atmosphere, making it the perfect place for a quiet and intimate dining experience. I opted for the lunch course, which featured seven dishes showcasing seasonal local ingredients. Each dish was a work of art, a delicate balance of flavors and textures that delighted my palate. The chef's brilliant sense transforms various seasonal ingredients into gentle and delicate plates as if you are witnessing happy magic.

The wine pairing was also exceptional, with a selection of natural wines from France and Japan that perfectly complemented each dish. It was a truly memorable meal, a testament to the culinary creativity and craftsmanship of the region. I felt a sense of contentment as I savored the last bite, knowing that I had experienced something truly special.

As evening approached, I decided to immerse myself in Kanazawa's nightlife with a visit to The Londonya Bar. This British-style bar, designed by Australian artists, offered a cozy and relaxed atmosphere. I ordered a Kilkenny, enjoying the master's posture as he cut fruit for cocktails. The bar was a bit on the expensive side, but I think it's worth it for people who want to relax with a good drink.


Experience the vibrant atmosphere and diverse drink selection at The Londonya Bar in Kanazawa's lively Katamachi district.

Reflecting on the day, I was struck by the seamless blend of nature, culture, and cuisine that Kanazawa offers. From the panoramic views of Mount Utatsu to the delicate flavors of Tawara Restaurant, every experience was a testament to the city's unique charm. As I prepare for my final day in Kanazawa, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the memories I've made and the experiences I've shared. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Shoko-ji and the Kanazawa Castle Ruins, eager to delve even deeper into the city's rich history. I'll also be sure to try some local cuisine at HUNI for breakfast, Akadama Honten for lunch and Hay Naku! Philippine restaurant for dinner. Before I head back to Antwerp, I'll make one last stop at the Kanazawa Music Bar, hoping to soak in some local music scene. I am already excited about the prospect of sharing my experiences with Marie and Thomas, reliving the adventure through stories and photographs.

Before heading back to the hotel, I took a moment to appreciate the tranquility of the night. The stars twinkled above, casting a soft glow on the city below. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day, a reminder of the simple joys of travel and the beauty of the world around us.

As I wrap up my Kanazawa adventure, I am reminded of a quote I once read by John Muir:

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

And how true that is. Kanazawa has given me far more than I ever expected, a treasure trove of memories that I will cherish for years to come.