Cultural Exploration in Fes with Friends

Wandering Through the Heart of Fes

Today was a day of complete immersion in the sensory delights of Fes. From the moment I stepped out of our guesthouse, I was swept away by the city's vibrant energy, a stark contrast to the quiet mornings I cherish back in Berlin. It was a day filled with exploration, delicious food, and the kind of cultural experiences that make traveling so rewarding. I’m excited to share the highlights, even though I know words can barely capture the essence of what I experienced.

Our day began, as many do, with the quest for a good breakfast. We found ourselves drawn to Nagham Cafe, near the iconic Bab Boujloud. The cafe was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day with a taste of Morocco. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast: msemen (pancakes) with honey and a steaming glass of mint tea. The msemen were perfectly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and the honey added just the right amount of sweetness. And the mint tea? It was simply divine – fragrant, refreshing, and the perfect pick-me-up.

Fueled by breakfast and anticipation, we ventured towards Bab Boujloud, the main gate to the medina. The gate itself is a stunning example of Moroccan architecture, adorned with intricate tilework in vibrant shades of blue on one side and green on the other. It’s quite a sight to behold, and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of the most photographed landmarks in Fes. Apparently, the gate is known for celebrating the city's annual festival, which draws many visitors each year.


Explore the enchanting Bab Boujloud, the iconic gate to Fes, where history, culture, and vibrant markets await every traveler.

As we stepped through Bab Boujloud, we found ourselves on Talaa Kebira, one of the main thoroughfares of the medina. The street was alive with activity – vendors hawking their wares, artisans crafting their goods, and locals going about their daily lives. The sounds, smells, and sights were overwhelming, but in the best possible way. It felt like stepping into another world, a world where time had stood still for centuries.

We wandered along Talaa Kebira, soaking in the atmosphere and admiring the architecture. The street is lined with shops selling everything imaginable – spices, textiles, leather goods, ceramics, and more. The colors were dazzling, and the smells were intoxicating. I was particularly drawn to the spice shops, with their mounds of colorful powders and fragrant herbs. I picked up a few packets of ras el hanout, a Moroccan spice blend that I’m eager to try in my own cooking.

The soul of a city is found not in its monuments, but in its markets.

Our next stop was the Henna Souk, a small square in the heart of the medina that’s known for its natural beauty products. Here, vendors sell henna powder, argan oil, and various other traditional cosmetics. The square was filled with women getting henna tattoos, and the air was thick with the scent of jasmine and sandalwood. I was tempted to get a henna tattoo myself, but I decided to pass – I wasn’t sure how Hans would react to me coming home with a temporary tattoo! I did, however, purchase a small bottle of argan oil, which I’ve heard is excellent for the skin and hair.

Wandering through the Henna Souk, I was captivated by the displays of pottery. Fes is renowned for its ceramics, and the souk was filled with beautiful examples of this traditional craft. I saw tagines in every color and size imaginable, as well as bowls, plates, and vases adorned with intricate patterns. I learned that the local clay is very hard-wearing and fired at volcanic temperatures. I resisted the urge to buy a whole set of dishes, reminding myself that I had to leave room in my suitcase for other treasures. We did buy a small, hand-painted bowl as a memento of our visit. I can imagine using it for dips or olives when we have friends over in Berlin.


Discover the enchanting Henna Souk and Pottery Market in Fes, a vibrant hub of Moroccan culture and craftsmanship, perfect for unique souvenirs.

By this point, our stomachs were starting to rumble, so we decided to find a place for lunch. Based on a recommendation, we headed to Restaurant Boujloud, known for its traditional Moroccan cuisine and rooftop terrace. We managed to snag a table with a view of the medina, and it was the perfect spot to relax and refuel. I ordered a tagine with chicken and preserved lemons, while my friends opted for couscous with vegetables. The tagine was incredibly flavorful, the chicken tender and moist, and the preserved lemons adding a tangy twist. The couscous was equally delicious, the vegetables perfectly cooked and the broth rich and aromatic.

After lunch, we continued our exploration of the medina, getting lost in its labyrinthine streets and discovering hidden courtyards and workshops. We stumbled upon a leather tannery, where we watched artisans dyeing leather using traditional methods. The smell was overpowering, but the sight of the colorful vats of dye was fascinating. I was also struck by the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans, who were clearly passionate about their work. I recalled reading that the tanneries in Fes still operate using old methods, including natural dyes and hand-cut leather.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the medina and find a place to relax. We had heard about Zen Garden, a bar known for its tranquil atmosphere and refreshing drinks. It sounded like the perfect oasis, and it didn’t disappoint. The bar was tucked away in a quiet corner of the medina, and it felt like stepping into a different world. The garden was lush and green, with fountains and shady trees providing respite from the sun. I ordered a mint lemonade, which was incredibly refreshing, and we spent a blissful hour lounging in the garden, soaking in the peace and quiet.


Discover tranquility and natural beauty at the Zen Garden in Fès, a serene escape amidst the vibrant culture of Morocco.

As evening approached, it was time to think about dinner. We wanted to try something special, so we made a reservation at Eden at Palais Amani, a restaurant known for its refined Moroccan cuisine and elegant setting. The restaurant is located in a beautiful riad, and the atmosphere was simply magical. We sat in the courtyard, surrounded by citrus trees and illuminated by candlelight. I decided to live a little and try the shredded chicken in a pastry parcel dusted with powdered sugar, and I wasn't disappointed!. For dessert, we shared a delectable chocolate mousse.


Experience the exquisite fusion of Moroccan and French cuisine in a historic palace setting at Eden at Palais Amani.

After dinner, we decided to end our day with a nightcap. We headed back to Zen Garden, where we enjoyed a few cocktails under the stars. The atmosphere was even more enchanting at night, with the garden illuminated by lanterns and the sound of music filling the air. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.

As I sit here writing this, I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures. We’re planning a trip to Volubilis, an ancient Roman city located a short drive from Fes. I’m excited to explore the ruins and learn more about Morocco’s rich history. We will also visit Palais Mnebhi and Palais du Tresor. I’m also looking forward to doing some more shopping – I have my eye on a few leather bags and maybe even a kaftan. For dinner, we are booked at Zagora, and I've heard great things about their tagines.

But for now, it’s time to rest and recharge. Tomorrow promises to be another day of discovery, and I can’t wait to see what Fes has in store for us.

I'm so glad I decided to come to Fes with my friends. It's a city that truly captivates the senses and leaves a lasting impression. Even though I miss Hans and Sophie, I know that this trip is something special, a chance to immerse myself in a different culture and create memories that I'll cherish forever. Perhaps next time, I’ll bring them along to experience the magic of Fes for themselves.

Traveling, I am reminded, is about more than just seeing new places; it's about opening your mind to new experiences and connecting with people from different backgrounds. And in that regard, Fes has exceeded all of my expectations.