Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day etched in my memory, a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima to witness the Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. The hike was more than just a physical journey; it was a passage through time, a communion with nature that resonated deep within my soul. It was a long day, but every step was worth it.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at Smiley. This cozy café, overlooking the harbor of Anbo, was the perfect spot to gather my thoughts before the adventure. I grabbed a coffee and a light sandwich, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere before the day's exertion. It’s amazing to think that even here, on this remote island, you can find a place that feels so familiar and comforting, just like the cafés back in Helsinki. I made a mental note to perhaps try one of their vegetarian muffin sandwiches before I leave Yakushima.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

The bus ride to the Arakawa Trailhead was filled with anticipation. The early morning light painted the landscape in soft hues, and the air was thick with the scent of rain and earth. It reminded me of berry picking in the forests around Helsinki, except here, the trees were ancient and the scale was immense. The bus was crowded with fellow hikers, a mix of locals and tourists, all eager to witness the ancient Jōmon Sugi.

The forest is not a resource for us, it is life itself. The trees are our ancestors, our siblings, our story.

The trail itself was a journey through different ecosystems. The first part followed an old railway line, a relic from Yakushima's logging past. It was relatively flat and easy, a gentle warm-up for what was to come. I couldn't help but imagine the bustling activity of the logging days, now replaced by the quiet footsteps of hikers seeking solace in nature. The railway line passed by the abandoned logging village of Kosugidani, a poignant reminder of the island's history.

As the trail ascended, the landscape transformed into a lush, primeval forest. Towering cedars, draped in moss and ferns, created a cathedral-like atmosphere. The air was thick with moisture, and the sound of rushing water echoed through the trees. I felt like I had stepped back in time, into a world untouched by modernity. I was grateful for my waterproof jacket, one of the essentials I packed for this trip. I was also glad I remembered to bring sunscreen, as even with the cloud cover, the UV levels can be high. I did, however, regret forgetting insect repellent; the mosquitoes were relentless at times.

Along the way, I encountered some of Yakushima's other famous trees. The Meotosugi, a pair of trees resembling a husband and wife embracing, was a touching sight. The Daiosugi, one of the largest trees on the island, was simply awe-inspiring. And then there was Wilson’s Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago. Peering inside, I saw the heart-shaped opening to the sky, a breathtaking view that made me feel connected to the tree's long history.

The final stretch of the hike was the most challenging. The trail became steeper and more rugged, requiring careful footing. But the anticipation of seeing the Jōmon Sugi kept me going. Finally, after hours of hiking, I arrived at the viewing platform. And there it was, the Jōmon Sugi, standing majestically against the backdrop of the forest.

It wasn't as tall as I had imagined, but its presence was undeniable. Its massive trunk, gnarled and weathered by centuries of storms, spoke of resilience and endurance. I stood in silence, gazing at this ancient being, feeling a sense of reverence and humility. It was a moment of profound connection, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things.

The Jōmon Sugi was rediscovered in 1966 by a local civil servant. Its rediscovery, and other factors, helped cease the logging industry in the Arakawa area of the island in 1970. The effort to preserve this ancient site is commendable, and I was grateful for the opportunity to witness its majesty.

The hike back was just as challenging, but my heart was full. The forest seemed different, imbued with a new sense of magic. I took my time, savoring the last moments in this enchanted realm. Back in Helsinki, I often find solace in the city's libraries, surrounded by stories of the past. Here, in Yakushima, the forest itself was a library, filled with untold stories etched in the rings of ancient trees.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by Wood Shop Kikori. I wanted to find a small souvenir, something to remind me of this incredible day. The owner, an ex-Yakushima forester, crafted beautiful woodcraft products from local wood. I purchased a small cedar carving, a tangible piece of Yakushima's soul.


Explore the artistry of Yakushima at Wood Shop Kikori, a unique woodworking supply store showcasing beautiful handcrafted wooden items and tools.

For dinner, I decided to try Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. The name itself was intriguing, and I was curious to see what culinary delights awaited me. The restaurant is known for its carefully prepared meals and serene atmosphere. It was the perfect way to end a day of profound experiences. I savored each bite, reflecting on the day's journey and the ancient whispers of the Jōmon Sugi.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Each Meal, an izakaya in Yakushima where every dish is a celebration of local culture and culinary artistry.

As I sit here now, writing in my notebook, I can still feel the presence of the Jōmon Sugi. It was more than just a tree; it was a symbol of resilience, longevity, and the enduring power of nature. Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse. I’m also hoping to visit Ambar, a local bar, for a taste of Yakushima's nightlife. But for now, I'll close my eyes and listen to the whispers of the ancients, carried on the wind through the cedar forests of Yakushima.