Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of the Forest

Today, Yakushima revealed a deeper layer of its soul to me. It wasn't just about the stunning vistas or the unique flora; it was about feeling the heartbeat of an ancient world, a world where nature reigns supreme and whispers stories to those who listen. I felt a profound connection to this place, a sense of being part of something far greater than myself.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe in Miyanoura. I opted for the hamburg steak and karaage combo, eager to fuel up for the day's adventures. The cafe had a cozy atmosphere, and the fluffy hamburg steak was indeed as advertised. It reminded me of the comforting meals Markus makes back in Helsinki, simple yet satisfying. After breakfast, I set off towards Shiratani Unsui Gorge. The bus ride itself was an experience, winding through narrow roads with glimpses of the coastline. The anticipation was building, and I couldn't wait to immerse myself in the famed moss-covered forest.

As I stepped into Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I was immediately enveloped in a world of vibrant green. The air was thick with moisture, and the sound of rushing water echoed through the trees. It felt like stepping into a scene from a fairytale, or perhaps even a glimpse into Aino's storybooks filled with Nordic folklore. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting an ethereal glow on the moss-covered rocks and ancient cedar trees. The gorge is known as the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*, and I could certainly see why. The mystical atmosphere was palpable, and I felt a sense of reverence for this untouched wilderness.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

I followed one of the well-maintained trails, crossing picturesque bridges and marveling at the crystal-clear streams. The path was a bit challenging in places, with some steep inclines and slippery rocks, but it was well worth the effort. Every turn revealed a new vista, a new opportunity to appreciate the sheer beauty of this ancient forest. I was so glad I remembered to pack my waterproof jacket, as the occasional drizzle only added to the magical ambiance. It reminded me of berry picking in the forests around Helsinki with Aino, where the rain never dampens our spirits. I spent hours wandering through the gorge, lost in my thoughts and captivated by the stunning scenery.

The forest is a living, breathing entity, and we are but humble guests in its ancient domain.

Next on my itinerary was Wilson's Stump. After a scenic hike deeper into the forest, I finally reached this iconic landmark. The sheer size of the stump was awe-inspiring. It's hard to imagine the scale of the tree that once stood here, a cedar estimated to be over 2,000 years old. The stump is named after Ernest Henry Wilson, a British botanist who brought attention to Yakushima's unique flora in the early 20th century. It is said that the tree was cut down around 400 years ago to construct a temple in Kyoto.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

Stepping inside Wilson's Stump felt like entering a cathedral. The hollow interior was surprisingly spacious, with a small shrine nestled within. Looking up, I could see the famous heart-shaped opening in the stump, framing the sky above. It was a truly special moment, a connection to both the history and the natural beauty of Yakushima. I took my time exploring the stump, imagining the stories it could tell, the centuries it had witnessed. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the power and resilience of nature.

For lunch, I headed to Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. I tried the flying fish ramen, a local specialty. It was a unique and flavorful dish, a testament to the island's culinary creativity. The restaurant also had a gallery showcasing local crafts, and I enjoyed browsing the intricate woodwork and pottery. After lunch, I spent some time reflecting on my experiences in Shiratani Unsui Gorge and at Wilson's Stump. I journaled about the profound sense of peace I felt in the forest, the connection to nature, and the humbling experience of standing within the ancient stump. It was a day of deep introspection, a chance to reconnect with myself and with the natural world.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

As evening approached, I made my way to Wakadaisho in Miyanoura for dinner. This popular spot is known for its fresh seafood, and I was eager to sample some of the local delicacies. I ordered a sashimi platter, and the fish was incredibly fresh and flavorful. I also tried the flying fish tempura, which was subtly sweet and perfectly crispy. The staff were friendly and welcoming, and the atmosphere was lively and convivial. It was a great way to end a day of exploration and reflection.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

After dinner, I decided to check out Cafe＆Bar RainTree. It was a cozy little place, perfect for unwinding after a long day of hiking. I enjoyed a local craft beer and chatted with some of the other patrons. It was interesting to hear their stories and perspectives on Yakushima. The bar had a relaxed and welcoming vibe, and I felt right at home.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Yakushima had exceeded all my expectations, and I was already looking forward to tomorrow's adventure: hiking to Jōmon Sugi. I'm also hoping to visit Wood Shop Kikori to see some of the local crafts. The prospect of seeing the oldest tree in Japan fills me with anticipation, and I know it will be another day of wonder and discovery. As I drifted off to sleep, I could still hear the whispers of the ancient forest, a lullaby of nature that will stay with me long after I leave this magical island.

Tomorrow promises another early start as I prepare to trek to Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. I've packed extra snacks and water, knowing the hike will be challenging but incredibly rewarding. The thought of standing before such an ancient and majestic tree fills me with anticipation. I also plan to visit Wood Shop Kikori, hoping to find a small memento of my time here, something crafted from the very trees I've come to admire. The weather forecast looks promising, with clear skies and mild temperatures, perfect for a day in the mountains. I'm eager to see what new wonders Yakushima will reveal tomorrow.