Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Illuminating the Shadows

Today was all about contrasts – light and shadow, presence and absence. Naoshima continues to surprise me with its ability to challenge perceptions and evoke deep contemplation. I started the day eager to delve further into the island's artistic soul, and I certainly wasn't disappointed.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. This charming spot, near the Art House Project, felt like stepping into someone's home. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying meal, fueling up for the day’s explorations. The friendly atmosphere and delicious coffee were the perfect start. I made a mental note to try and recreate their vegan dishes back in Berlin – Maximilian would certainly appreciate that!

After breakfast, I headed to the Art House Project: Minamidera. This was an experience unlike any other. Designed by Tadao Ando, the building itself is a work of art, a concrete structure that blends seamlessly into the surrounding neighborhood. However, it’s James Turrell’s art piece, “Backside of the Moon,” within Minamidera that truly captivated me.

The experience begins with a guided entry into a pitch-black room. You're led carefully, one hand on the wall, into what feels like complete nothingness. It’s disorienting at first, a challenge to your senses. As you sit in the darkness, waiting, something extraordinary happens. Slowly, your eyes begin to adjust, and a subtle play of light emerges. It’s an exercise in perception, a reminder of how much we rely on sight and how much our minds can create even in the absence of it.

The essence of art is not to show, but to make you see.

It was a truly unforgettable experience, one that I highly recommend to anyone visiting Naoshima. It requires patience and a willingness to surrender to the unknown, but the reward is a profound shift in perspective.

After the intense experience at Minamidera, I needed a moment to decompress. I decided to grab lunch at maimai. I opted for the Naoshima Burger, a local specialty featuring fresh yellowtail. It was absolutely delicious! The burger was juicy and flavorful, with a unique tartar sauce that perfectly complemented the fish. It was the perfect way to refuel after my morning of artistic immersion.

With renewed energy, I set off to the Lee Ufan Museum in the afternoon. This museum, another collaboration with Tadao Ando, is dedicated to the works of Lee Ufan, a Korean contemporary artist. The museum is nestled in a quiet valley, a serene setting that enhances the minimalist art on display.

Lee Ufan’s art is characterized by its simplicity and focus on the relationship between materials and space. Large installations of stone, concrete, and iron invite contemplation and reflection. The museum also features a number of paintings with subtle brushstrokes, encouraging slow, mindful viewing. I found myself drawn to the meditative quality of his work, the way it encourages you to find beauty in the most unassuming forms.

The architecture of the museum itself is integral to the experience. Ando’s use of concrete and natural light creates a space that is both calming and thought-provoking. The outdoor sculptures, framed against the backdrop of the sea and sky, were particularly striking. It’s a place where art, architecture, and nature come together in perfect harmony.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Cin.na.mon. This restaurant is known for its exceptional curry and fresh seafood dishes. I decided to try the Naoshima seafood curry, and it was incredible! The curry was rich and flavorful, with generous portions of fresh seafood. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, making it the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring.

Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I decided to check out Bar SARU. It was a cozy spot with a laid-back vibe. I enjoyed a Naoshima beer while chatting with some locals. It was a great way to end the day, soaking in the island’s atmosphere and connecting with its people.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I'm excited to visit the Ando Museum and see more of Yayoi Kusama's iconic pumpkins. I also plan to try some local cuisine at Little Plum and Kinosaki Udon Naoshima. And, of course, I'll be on the lookout for a special souvenir at Shimacoya.

Naoshima continues to reveal its treasures, one art piece, one delicious meal, one unexpected encounter at a time. It's a journey that challenges, inspires, and leaves you with a renewed appreciation for the power of art and the beauty of simplicity.

Perhaps I’ll even convince Maximilian to join me next time. Although, I do rather enjoy these moments of solo reflection. It gives me time to think, to breathe, and to simply be.

I’m also mindful of the Setouchi Triennale 2025 taking place this summer. It’s amazing to think that I’m experiencing this island during such a vibrant time for art. The energy here is palpable, and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.