A Serene Escape to Zao Onsen: Unwinding in Japan's Hot Springs

Whispers of the Past

Our final day in Zao Onsen was bittersweet. It was a day filled with nostalgic charm and delightful culinary experiences, perfectly encapsulating the essence of our Japanese adventure. As we prepared to bid farewell to this serene mountain retreat, we knew we had to make the most of every moment, soaking in the last vestiges of its tranquil beauty.

The morning began with a comforting breakfast at Omiya Ryokan, our home away from home. The familiar spread of traditional Japanese fare was a soothing ritual, a gentle nudge into the day's adventures. Sipping on green tea while overlooking the misty mountains, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for the experiences we'd shared here with Pieter. It’s funny how quickly a place can feel like a part of you.


Experience authentic Japanese hospitality at Omiya Ryokan, a serene guesthouse in Yamagata known for its warm ambiance and spa services.
With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off for Ginzan Onsen, a picturesque hot spring town nestled deeper in the mountains. The journey itself was an experience, the winding roads offering glimpses of verdant landscapes and quaint villages. Ginzan Onsen is known for its nostalgic Taisho-era architecture, a style that blends Japanese and Western influences, creating a unique and captivating atmosphere.


Explore the serene beauty of Ginzan Onsen, a traditional hot spring town in Yamagata, perfect for relaxation and cultural immersion.
As we stepped onto the main street of Ginzan Onsen, it felt like stepping back in time. The wooden ryokans lining the Ginzan River exuded an old-world charm, their gas lamps casting a warm, inviting glow. It was easy to see why this town is said to have inspired the animated film, “Spirited Away”. The air was filled with a sense of tranquility, a gentle hum of fellow travelers exploring the town's hidden corners. Of course, I made sure to bring my camera to capture all the scenery.

The beauty of Ginzan Onsen lies not just in its picturesque scenery, but in its ability to transport you to a different era, a simpler time.

We strolled along the cobblestone streets, popping into local shops and soaking in the atmosphere. The Ginzan River meandered through the town, its gentle murmur adding to the serene ambiance. We even found a free foot bath where we could dip our toes and relax, watching the world go by.

For lunch, we returned to Zao Onsen and ventured to Hachiman, a local yakiniku restaurant known for its Zao beef. The restaurant had a cozy, inviting atmosphere, and we were quickly seated at a table where we could grill our own meat. Pieter and I shared a selection of Zao beef, lamb, and Yamagata pork, each cut more tender and flavorful than the last. It was a delightful culinary experience, a testament to the region's rich agricultural bounty. We savored every bite, reminiscing about our favorite meals from the trip. I especially enjoyed the cozy yakiniku experience.


Savor authentic local cuisine at Hachiman in Yamagata's scenic Zaoonsen area—where tradition meets taste.
After lunch, we explored Zao Onsen a bit more, stumbling upon Zao Onsen & Ski Lodge Scole. While it's known as a ski lodge, it was still open and welcoming during the summer. We popped inside and browsed the shop, picking up a few souvenirs to remind us of our time in Zao. It was a warm, friendly place, and I could imagine how cozy it must be during the winter months. Maybe we'll have to come back during ski season!

As evening approached, we made our way to Jingisukan Lodge for our final dinner in Zao. This restaurant is renowned for its authentic mutton barbecue, a local specialty. The aroma of grilled mutton filled the air, whetting our appetites as we settled into our seats. The mutton was tender and flavorful, perfectly complemented by the traditional Japanese techniques used to prepare it. It was a hearty, satisfying meal, a fitting end to our culinary explorations in Zao Onsen.


Experience authentic mutton barbecue at Jingisukan Lodge in Yamagata's picturesque Zaoonsen region.
After dinner, we took a final stroll through Zao Onsen, savoring the cool mountain air and the twinkling lights of the town. We stopped by a small park and sat on a bench, reflecting on our time in Japan. It had been an incredible journey, filled with unforgettable experiences and breathtaking scenery. I felt so grateful to have shared it all with Pieter.

Tomorrow, we begin our journey back home. There's no specific itinerary – just the long trip back to Delft. While I'm excited to return to our cozy home and familiar routines, I know I'll carry the memories of this trip with me always. The serene beauty of Zao Onsen, the nostalgic charm of Ginzan Onsen, and the warmth of the Japanese people will forever hold a special place in my heart. Until next time, Japan!

Embracing the Quiet Charm of Zao Onsen

Our last day in Zao Onsen was a blend of peaceful reflection and delightful exploration. We started with a hearty breakfast at our ryokan, Omiya Ryokan, savoring the traditional Japanese flavors that had become so comforting over the past few days. The morning mist hung low over the mountains, creating a serene atmosphere as we planned our final day's adventure.

Our main destination for the day was Ginzan Onsen, a historic hot spring town known for its picturesque streets and traditional wooden buildings. The journey there was an adventure in itself, as we navigated winding mountain roads that offered stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The town is about an hour away from Yamagata City. As we approached Ginzan Onsen, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement. I had seen so many photos of this charming town, and I couldn't wait to experience it for myself. Pieter was just as eager, his camera ready to capture every detail of this nostalgic gem.

Stepping into Ginzan Onsen felt like stepping back in time. The town's main street is lined with beautifully preserved wooden ryokans, their facades illuminated by gas lamps that cast a warm, inviting glow. The Ginzan River flows gently through the center of town, adding to the tranquil atmosphere. It was easy to see why Ginzan Onsen is often described as a real-life version of a Ghibli film setting.

We spent the morning exploring the town's narrow streets, browsing the local shops, and admiring the architecture. We visited a small museum that showcased the history of the town's silver mine, learning about the people who had once lived and worked here. I bought a small, hand-painted kokeshi doll as a souvenir, a reminder of the town's rich cultural heritage. Pieter, meanwhile, was busy capturing the beauty of the town through his lens, finding unique angles and perspectives that highlighted its charm.

Sometimes, the most profound travel experiences are found in the quiet moments, in the simple act of observing and appreciating the beauty around you.

For lunch, we decided to return to Zao Onsen to try a local restaurant called Hachiman. This yakiniku spot is known for its grilled meats. Hachiman is easily accessible and invites diners to enjoy a cozy yakiniku experience. The owners are long-time residents of Zao Onsen. We ordered a selection of Zao beef, pork, and lamb, grilling each piece to perfection on the small grill in the center of our table. The meat was incredibly tender and flavorful, and we savored every bite. It was the perfect way to refuel after a morning of exploring.

After lunch, we took a leisurely stroll through Zao Onsen, discovering hidden gems and local haunts. We popped into Zao Onsen & Ski Lodge Scole, a charming ski lodge that's open year-round. The lodge had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and we enjoyed browsing their selection of local crafts and souvenirs. The lodge is family-run and has been around for over 30 years.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Jingisukan Lodge for our final dinner in Zao Onsen. This restaurant specializes in Jingisukan, a Mongolian-style mutton barbecue that's popular in Hokkaido and other parts of Japan. The restaurant had a rustic, cozy atmosphere, and the aroma of grilled mutton filled the air. We ordered a generous portion of mutton, along with a selection of vegetables and dipping sauces. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, the perfect way to end our culinary journey in Zao Onsen.

After dinner, we took one last walk through the town, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and the twinkling lights. We stopped by a small park and sat on a bench, reflecting on our time in Zao Onsen. It had been a truly unforgettable experience, a chance to connect with nature, immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, and create lasting memories. As we prepared to leave tomorrow, I felt a sense of gratitude for all that we had experienced. Zao Onsen had captured our hearts, and I knew we would never forget its serene beauty and warm hospitality.

Saying Goodbye to Zao: A Day of Nostalgia and Culinary Delights

Our final day in Zao Onsen was a poignant mix of reflection and indulgence. Knowing it was our last opportunity to soak in the unique atmosphere of this mountain retreat, Pieter and I set out to make the most of every moment. From exploring historic streets to savoring local delicacies, the day was a perfect culmination of our Japanese adventure.

We began with a leisurely breakfast at Omiya Ryokan, enjoying the comforting familiarity of the traditional Japanese spread. As we savored each dish, we reminisced about our favorite moments from the past few days. The ryokan has truly felt like a home away from home, and we were sad to be leaving its warm embrace. I made sure to take a few extra photos of the beautiful garden outside the dining room, wanting to preserve every detail in my memory.

Our main excursion for the day was a visit to Ginzan Onsen, a picturesque hot spring town renowned for its nostalgic Taisho-era architecture. The journey to Ginzan Onsen was a scenic delight, with winding roads offering glimpses of verdant landscapes and quaint villages. Ginzan Onsen is located about an hour away from Yamagata City. As we approached the town, I felt a sense of anticipation. I had heard so much about its beauty and charm, and I couldn't wait to experience it firsthand. Pieter, ever the photographer, was eager to capture its unique atmosphere through his lens.

As we stepped onto the main street of Ginzan Onsen, it felt like stepping back in time. The town is lined with beautifully preserved wooden ryokans, their facades illuminated by gas lamps that cast a warm, inviting glow. The Ginzan River flows gently through the center of town, adding to the tranquil atmosphere. It was easy to see why Ginzan Onsen is often described as a real-life version of a Ghibli film setting. I couldn't resist taking dozens of photos, trying to capture the magic of this enchanting place.

We spent the morning exploring the town's narrow streets, browsing the local shops, and admiring the architecture. We visited a small museum that showcased the history of the town's silver mine, learning about the people who had once lived and worked here. We also stopped by a local tea house for a traditional matcha tea ceremony, savoring the delicate flavors and the peaceful atmosphere. I bought a beautiful, hand-painted fan as a souvenir, a reminder of the town's rich cultural heritage.

The true essence of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in experiencing new cultures and connecting with the people who call them home.

For lunch, we returned to Zao Onsen to try a local restaurant called Hachiman. Hachiman is located on Takayu Street and is easily accessible. The owners previously ran the izakaya Touen. The yakiniku spot showcases some of Yamagata's most famous ingredients. We ordered a selection of Zao beef, pork, and lamb, grilling each piece to perfection on the small grill in the center of our table. The meat was incredibly tender and flavorful, and we savored every bite. It was the perfect way to refuel after a morning of exploring.

After lunch, we took a leisurely stroll through Zao Onsen, discovering hidden gems and local haunts. We popped into Zao Onsen & Ski Lodge Scole, a charming ski lodge that's open year-round. The lodge had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and we enjoyed browsing their selection of local crafts and souvenirs. The staff were incredibly friendly and helpful, sharing stories about the lodge's history and the surrounding area. I bought a beautiful, hand-knitted scarf as a souvenir, a reminder of the warmth and hospitality of the people of Zao Onsen.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Jingisukan Lodge for our final dinner in Zao Onsen. This restaurant specializes in Jingisukan, a Mongolian-style mutton barbecue that's popular in Hokkaido and other parts of Japan. The restaurant had a rustic, cozy atmosphere, and the aroma of grilled mutton filled the air. We ordered a generous portion of mutton, along with a selection of vegetables and dipping sauces. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, the perfect way to end our culinary journey in Zao Onsen.

After dinner, we took one last walk through the town, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and the twinkling lights. We stopped by a small park and sat on a bench, reflecting on our time in Zao Onsen. It had been a truly unforgettable experience, a chance to connect with nature, immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, and create lasting memories. As we prepared to leave tomorrow, I felt a sense of gratitude for all that we had experienced. Zao Onsen had captured our hearts, and I knew we would never forget its serene beauty and warm hospitality.