A Serene Escape to Zao Onsen: Unwinding in Japan's Hot Springs

Ascending into Zao's Embrace: A Day of Discovery

Today was a beautiful blend of natural wonders and cultural immersion here in Zao Onsen. We set out to explore the area's scenic heights and historical depths, making for a day filled with breathtaking views and serene reflections. It’s amazing how much one day can offer when you’re open to the possibilities, and Zao Onsen certainly delivered.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Omiya Ryokan [it being our last one!], fueling up for our adventures. The traditional Japanese spread was as delightful as ever, setting a perfect tone for the day ahead. After breakfast, Pieter and I headed towards the Zao Sky Cable Uwanodai Station.


Experience authentic Japanese hospitality at Omiya Ryokan, a serene guesthouse in Yamagata known for its warm ambiance and spa services.

The plan was to ascend into the mountains and take in the panoramic views that Zao is famous for.

The Zao Sky Cable Uwanodai Station is easily accessible from the main hotel area, and we opted for a leisurely walk to get there, enjoying the surrounding nature. The walk was approximately 3 kilometers and took us about 45 minutes, a gentle warm-up for the day's activities. As we approached the station, the anticipation grew, with glimpses of the cable cars ascending into the lush mountains. The Zao Sky Cable operates between Uwanodai Station and Chuo Kogen Station, making for an eight minute ride.


Discover breathtaking views and thrilling adventures at Zao Sky Cable Uwanodai Station, the perfect gateway to Yamagata's stunning landscapes.

Boarding the cable car, we were immediately treated to stunning views of the valley below. The ascent was smooth, and the higher we climbed, the more spectacular the scenery became. The verdant landscape stretched out before us, a tapestry of greens and blues under the clear summer sky. It was a perfect day for sightseeing, with visibility that seemed to extend forever. As someone who spends a lot of time thinking about the environment, I couldn't help but appreciate the untouched beauty of this place. It’s a stark reminder of what we need to protect.

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller. - Ibn Battuta

At the summit, we disembarked and took some time to soak in the panoramic views. The air was crisp and refreshing, a welcome change from the warmer temperatures down in the village. Hiking trails beckoned, and we took a short walk to explore the immediate area. We could have taken the Zao Chuo Ropeway, composed of giant gondolas that hold over 100 passengers, to the summit of Mt. Torikabuto, but we decided to save that for another time. Zao in the summer offers hiking trails through verdant forests and to volcanic craters. I made a mental note to come back in the autumn, as I've read the autumn leaves around late September transform the mountain with color.

After descending from the Sky Cable, our next stop was Ubagami, a historical landmark nestled in the Zaoonsen area.
Explore the historical beauty of Ubagami in Yamagata, a cultural treasure that showcases Japan's rich heritage and stunning architecture.

Ubagami is more than just a building; it's a gateway to understanding the regional history and the traditions that have shaped this part of Japan. The shrine's rich cultural heritage and architecture immediately captivated us. As we wandered through the area, I felt a deep connection to the past. It's humbling to stand in a place that has witnessed so much history.

Ubagami offers unique insights into local customs, making it a great educational stop for those interested in Japanese culture. The surrounding area enhances the experience, with the natural beauty of Yamagata providing a stunning backdrop. The lush landscapes and serene ambiance made it a perfect spot for quiet reflection. Pieter, with his keen interest in history, was particularly fascinated by the stories and traditions associated with the shrine. I enjoyed seeing him so engaged, asking questions and reading every informational plaque he could find. I took the opportunity to take some photos, trying to capture the essence of this special place.

By lunchtime, we were both quite hungry. We strolled through the village, eventually deciding on Kasheru for lunch.
Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kasheru in Yamagata's scenic Zaoonsen area - where tradition meets taste.

This cozy restaurant, known for its delicious mixed platters and homely ambiance, was the perfect spot to refuel. We ordered their specialty, a mixed platter with high-quality lamb and addicting sauces. The experience of cooking our food on a skillet was unique and enjoyable. The staff were incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home.

The food was simple but memorable, with fresh veggies and high-quality lamb, perfectly balanced by the delicious sauce. As someone who tries to eat sustainably, I appreciated that Kasheru uses locally sourced ingredients. It’s these small, conscious choices that make a big difference. The cozy cabin vibe of the restaurant, covered in snow during the winter, added to the charm. It was easy to see why this place is so highly recommended. I would definitely recommend booking early, as we heard they have limited seating and high demand.

After our satisfying lunch, we took some time to explore more of Zao Onsen. We wandered through the streets, browsing the local shops and soaking in the atmosphere. It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon, enjoying the simple pleasures of this charming village. I picked up a few souvenirs, small reminders of our time here. Pieter found a local craft shop and bought a small wooden toy for his nephew, a thoughtful gesture that I always appreciate about him.

As evening approached, we made our way to SANRINA from ZAO BREWERY for a pre-dinner drink.
Discover the essence of Japanese craftsmanship at SANRINA from ZAO BREWERY, where artisanal beers meet local cuisine in a cozy brewpub setting.

This local brewery offers a variety of craft beers, and we were eager to sample some of their offerings. The brewery is known for using local ingredients, including water from Mount Zao, to create unique and flavorful beers. We tried a couple of different brews, each with its own distinct character. I particularly enjoyed the YAMAGATA さくらんぼ ALE, a fruit ale with a refreshing taste. Pieter opted for the ZAO CLASSIC IPA, a bolder choice that he thoroughly enjoyed.

For dinner, we had reservations at Touen, a restaurant known for its Yakiniku.
Discover the true taste of Japan at Touen - where authentic Yakiniku meets warm hospitality in beautiful Zaoonsen.

Unfortunately, it seems that Touen is permanently closed. As a backup, we were able to get reservations at Hachiman, which is run by the owners of Touen. Hachiman showcases some of Yamagata's most famous ingredients- Zao beef, lamb, and Yamagata pork. It was a delightful way to end our day, savoring the flavors of the region in a cozy setting. The menu featured a variety of options, from lunch sets that are budget-friendly to an extensive à la carte selection with yakiniku classics like Korean cold noodles and bibimbap.

Reflecting on the day, I feel grateful for the experiences we had. From the heights of the Zao Sky Cable to the historical depths of Ubagami, every moment was special. The food was delicious, the scenery was breathtaking, and the company was perfect. As we prepare to leave Zao Onsen tomorrow, I know that we will carry these memories with us. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Ginzan Onsen [if the weather cooperates], and I'm looking forward to exploring another gem of Yamagata.

Before heading back to the Ryokan, we took one last stroll through Zao Onsen, and looked up at the stars, making wishes for our last day in Zao Onsen. I will miss this place.