A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 2: Whispers of Waterfalls and Ancient Shrines: A Day of Spiritual Awakening

Today was a day of deep reflection and connection with the spiritual heart of Japan. The ancient trails of Kumano Kodo whispered stories of centuries past, guiding my steps as I embarked on a journey of self-discovery. It was a day filled with serene landscapes, sacred encounters, and moments of profound peace.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. Sipping on green tea, I felt a surge of energy, ready to embrace the path ahead. The cozy atmosphere of the eatery, filled with locals and fellow pilgrims, created a sense of community and shared purpose. It reminded me of the simple joys of life, much like sharing a warm meal with Fatima and the kids back home in Edmonton.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
With a full stomach and a grateful heart, I set off towards the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. As I started my ascent, the trail wound through a dense forest, sunlight filtering through the canopy in ethereal beams. The path was challenging, with steep inclines and rocky steps, but the beauty surrounding me kept me motivated. I couldn’t help but think of Nelson and Sheila; they would have loved exploring these woods, their laughter echoing through the trees. Maybe one day, I'll bring them here to experience this magic.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.
Reaching the summit, I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains. The landscape stretched out before me, a tapestry of green valleys and misty peaks. It was a moment of pure serenity, a chance to connect with nature and find stillness within myself. I took a deep breath, feeling the weight of my everyday worries lifting away, replaced by a sense of calm and clarity. In moments like these, I am reminded of a Mozambican proverb my grandmother used to say: Ukhamba loku tlhangana a wu teleki, meaning, A gourd for collecting water is never full. It speaks to the endless capacity for learning and growth, something I deeply value on this journey.

My next stop was Oyunohara, the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha. As I approached, the towering torii gate came into view, the largest in Japan, standing as a powerful symbol of the division between the secular and spiritual worlds. The sheer size of the gate was awe-inspiring, a testament to the enduring power of faith and tradition. Walking through it felt like stepping into another realm, a place of reverence and deep history. I learned that the shrine was originally located here until a devastating flood in 1889 swept away many of its buildings. The surviving structures were relocated to the present site, but Oyunohara remains a sacred place, drawing pilgrims and visitors alike.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a revered Shinto shrine and the starting point of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Exploring Oyunohara, I could feel the echoes of the past, the footsteps of countless pilgrims who had walked this path before me. I imagined the ceremonies that had taken place here, the prayers that had been offered, the hopes and dreams that had been carried on the wind. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the interconnectedness of humanity and the enduring power of the human spirit. The area was peaceful, with the sounds of the nearby rivers creating a soothing backdrop. I spent some time meditating by the riverbank, reflecting on my own journey and the challenges I have overcome. It was a moment of profound gratitude, a chance to appreciate the blessings in my life and to find strength for the path ahead.

For lunch, I stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming eatery known for its local specialties. I decided to try the Mehari-zushi, a type of sushi made with pickled mustard leaves. It was a unique and delicious dish, the tangy flavor of the mustard leaves complementing the savory rice and fish. I also had a bowl of udon noodles with chicken, which was hearty and satisfying. The staff were incredibly friendly, sharing stories about the local culture and the history of the Kumano Kodo. It was a delightful experience, a chance to connect with the community and learn more about the traditions of this sacred place. I even learned how to make Mehari-zushi myself, a skill I can't wait to try out back in Edmonton for Fatima and the kids.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
In the afternoon, I made my way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. The shrine is located on a ridge surrounded by giant cedar and cypress trees, creating a serene and majestic atmosphere. Climbing the long stone staircase leading to the main hall, I felt a sense of anticipation, a feeling of approaching something sacred and profound. The architecture of the shrine was stunning, with intricate details and graceful lines. The use of natural, unfinished materials allowed it to blend seamlessly into the environment, creating a sense of harmony and balance. I spent some time exploring the different pavilions, each dedicated to a different deity. I offered prayers for my family, for my community, and for peace in the world. It was a deeply moving experience, a chance to connect with something larger than myself and to find solace in the power of faith.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.
One of the unique features of Kumano Hongu Taisha is the space or corridor under the verandas of the pavilions. In the past, pilgrims and ascetics would use this tiny refuge for meditation, prayer, and even sleeping quarters. It was here that Saint Ippen Shonin, a prominent Buddhist monk, was enlightened. Standing in that corridor, I could feel the weight of history, the presence of those who had sought enlightenment here before me. It was a reminder that the path to spiritual awakening is a long and arduous one, but that it is always possible to find moments of clarity and insight along the way.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to treat myself to a relaxing evening at Kumano Winery Guest House/Dal Chef’s Table. I had heard great things about the Italian cuisine and the unique atmosphere of the place. The guest house is located in a rural farmhouse, surrounded by vineyards and offering stunning views of Tanabe Bay. It’s run by Giovanni dal Bosco, an Italian chef who came to Japan in 2013 and opened his “dream guest house” in 2019. The restaurant, “Dal Chef’s Table,” was even listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. Though I didn't end up going to the guesthouse itself, I did find myself thinking about how wonderful it would be to wind down there.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.
For dinner, I chose Kumagoro, a local restaurant known for its sushi and Japanese cuisine. After a long day of walking and spiritual exploration, I was ready for a hearty meal. I ordered a selection of sushi rolls, each one bursting with fresh and flavorful ingredients. The service was excellent, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day, a chance to savor the flavors of Japan and to reflect on the experiences I had had.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.
As I walked back to my accommodation, the stars began to appear in the sky, twinkling like diamonds against a velvet cloth. The air was cool and still, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the day, for the opportunity to walk the Kumano Kodo, to connect with nature, and to find peace within myself. It was a day I would never forget, a day that had touched my heart and soul.

Tomorrow, I will continue my pilgrimage, heading towards Kumano-Nachi Taisha, Nachi Waterfall, and Seiganto-ji. I am excited to explore these new sacred sites and to continue my journey of self-discovery. I plan to have breakfast at Sansaro Cafe, lunch at Tororoya, and dinner at Akihei. I am also looking forward to visiting the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. I know that the path ahead will be challenging, but I am ready to embrace it with an open heart and a willing spirit. Tonight, I sleep soundly, filled with the peace and serenity of the Kumano Kodo.

I'm also reminded that I forgot to pack an extra memory card for my camera and a Japanese phrasebook. I'll need to pick those up when I get a chance. It would have been useful to have a phrasebook today when I was making the Mehari-zushi! Good thing the staff spoke English.

Tiyiselani! (Be strong!), as we say in Mozambique. This journey is just beginning.