Exploring the Art Haven of Naoshima

Teshima's Embrace: A Day of Art and Reflection

Today, Lena and I ventured to Teshima Island, a short ferry ride from Naoshima, and it was like stepping into another world. The island is a canvas of tranquility, where art installations blend seamlessly with the natural landscape. As someone who appreciates the intersection of technology and art, I found the experiences today particularly moving, offering a chance to reflect on life, memory, and the human connection.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Issen. I opted for the beef set, while Lena enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The restaurant offered a sublime Kaiseki menu that was expertly prepared. We enjoyed it along with the beautiful view.


Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.

The Ethereal Teshima Art Museum

The first stop was the Teshima Art Museum, a place I had been eagerly anticipating. Designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito, the museum is an architectural marvel that blurs the lines between art, architecture, and nature. As we approached, the museum resembled a water droplet resting gently on a hillside overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. The structure is a concrete shell, devoid of pillars, with two oval openings that invite the wind, sounds, and light of the outside world into the space.

Inside, the experience was nothing short of magical. Water continuously springs from the ground, creating a mesmerizing dance of droplets that move and merge across the floor. The sunlight filtering through the openings created an ethereal atmosphere, enhancing the artworks on display. The main piece, 'Matrix' by Rei Naito, invites contemplation and reflection. It was a truly immersive experience, and I found myself lost in the serenity of the space. Lena, with her architect's eye, was particularly impressed by the seamless integration of the building with its natural surroundings. The museum acted as a medium to capture nature and subdue within. The building exemplifies “less is more”, as the minimal concept creates a substantial impact on visitors. The sheer white edifice stands in holistic harmony with its surroundings rather than overpowering them.


Discover the Teshima Art Museum, where contemporary art transcends into nature, creating an inspiring and tranquil experience on Teshima Island.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

The Intimate Archives du Cœur

Next, we visited Les Archives du Cœur, an installation by Christian Boltanski. This was perhaps the most profound experience of the day. The Archives du Cœur permanently houses recordings of heartbeats of people throughout the world. Christian Boltanski has been recording these heartbeats since 2008. Les Archives du Cœur is a testament to the recordees' existence.

The installation is divided into three rooms: the Heart Room, which houses the installation itself; a recording room; and a listening room. In the recording room, visitors can record their own heartbeats, adding their unique rhythm to the archive. I decided to record mine, thinking of my family back in Berlin and hoping that one day, my grandchildren might stumble upon it. Lena also recorded hers, adding a personal message to her recording.

In the listening room, we were able to search through the database and listen to the heartbeats of others. Each heartbeat was unique, a testament to the individual lives and experiences of the people behind them. It was a powerful reminder of our shared humanity and the fragility of life. The magnitude and the poetry of the gesture lies in the vision of this simple 30 second soundtrack to the very essence of your being, being held with so many others in a specially designated archive on the uninhabited island of Ejima in the Sea of Japan. The artist’s intention is to capture memories of anonymous individuals through thousands of photos, articles of used clothing, and personal names, among other things, to express the ephemeral nature of both life and memory.


Explore the profound connection between art and emotion at Les Archives du Cœur in Kagawa, a unique museum experience that resonates with every heartbeat.

Whispers in La forêt des murmures

Our final art stop of the day was La forêt des murmures (The Whispering Forest). This installation was a bit more elusive, requiring a walk through a wooded area. The forest itself was beautiful, with sunlight dappling through the leaves and the sound of birds chirping in the distance. The installation blended seamlessly with the environment, creating an immersive experience that engaged all of our senses. As we walked through the forest, we discovered various sound installations that seemed to whisper secrets to the wind. It was an enchanting experience, and we spent a long time simply listening to the murmurs of the forest. The forest itself, the castles and the crypt are characters just as well presented as the main protagonists.


Immerse yourself in La forêt des murmures, a stunning art exhibit harmonizing nature and creativity in the heart of Tonosho, Kagawa.

Before heading back to Naoshima, we stopped for lunch at NaoPAM/ Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda. This charming eatery specializes in delectable fish set meals that highlight the freshest catches of the day. With a menu that changes daily, diners can savor options like sashimi, grilled fish, and boiled fish sets featuring local favorites such as Spanish mackerel and sea bream. The owner was very welcoming, and we enjoyed a delicious meal of grilled fish sets, featuring the freshest catches of the day. It was a perfect way to refuel after a day of exploring. I have to be honest here, this is my kind of place: funky Japanese music playing, local craft beer, a simple dinner menu of sashimi or roast fish sets and one very hip owner. The staff are friendly and accommodating. A Naoshima institution that warrants a visit.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at NaoPAM in Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy atmosphere.

Evening Reflections and Tomorrow's Plans

Back on Naoshima, we decided to try a local bar called Chikurin. It was a cozy spot, and we enjoyed some local sake while chatting with the friendly owner. It was a perfect way to unwind after a day of art and exploration. This place was incredible. We went in with no expectations but the food was out of this world and the owner was amazingly friendly. Very cosy place, great atmosphere. Super welcoming to foreigners. Couldn't recommend more.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin, the charming izakaya in Naoshima, serving seasonal dishes and local beverages in a cozy atmosphere.

For dinner, we chose Nagomi, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. The restaurant offered an inviting atmosphere. The food was delicious, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.


Discover Nagomi in Naoshima - where authentic Japanese dining meets community spirit in a cozy setting.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I am struck by the power of art to connect us to ourselves, to each other, and to the world around us. Teshima Island is a place of profound beauty and tranquility, a place where art and nature intertwine to create something truly magical.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Naoshima, including the Shihōzashi Sightseeing Tower, Yokobou Park, and Naoshima Fishing Park. Lena is particularly interested in visiting the Lee Ufan Museum shop. I'm looking forward to seeing what other treasures this island has to offer.