Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Sacred Trails

Today was a day of profound connection with nature and the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo. Leaving the serene embrace of Koya behind us, Lena and I ventured deeper into the Kii Peninsula, eager to experience the legendary Nachi Waterfall and the historic Seiganto-ji Temple. I was particularly excited to capture the essence of these sites through my lens, hoping to convey the sense of timelessness and reverence that permeates this ancient pilgrimage route.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The vegetarian meal was delicious. We had a quick chat with the owner, who is a dynamic soul with strong interest in yoga, music, food, healing, and the vitality of the Kumano region. It felt like a home away from home. She even packed us awesome lunches for our hike. After our meal, Lena and I hopped on a bus that took us towards our first stop of the day: Nachi Waterfall.

The Roar of Nachi Waterfall

The bus dropped us off near Daimon-zaka, a cobblestone staircase slope that leads to Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple and Nachi waterfall. As we approached Nachi Waterfall, the air grew cooler, filled with a fine mist and the thunderous roar of cascading water. Even from a distance, the waterfall was awe-inspiring. Plunging 133 meters, it is the tallest waterfall in Japan. The falls are considered a sacred entity, worshipped at the Hiro Shrine and a place of training for Shugendo practitioners since ancient times. The combination of the falls and the surrounding broad-leaf evergreen primeval forest creates a sanctuary that has been protected since ancient times.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

We paid the 300 yen admission fee to get to the viewing platform. From there, the view was simply breathtaking. The sheer power of the water as it crashed into the basin below was mesmerizing. I took several photos, trying to capture the scale and the energy of the falls, but no image could truly do it justice. Lena and I spent a good while just soaking in the atmosphere, feeling the spray on our faces and listening to the constant roar. It’s easy to understand why this place has been considered sacred for centuries.

The sound of the waterfall is the voice of the gods; its mist, their breath.

Seiganto-ji Temple: A Harmony of Faiths

Next, we made our way to Seiganto-ji Temple, which is right next to Nachi Waterfall. This Tendai Buddhist temple is part of the Kumano Sanzan shrine complex and is one of the few remaining shrine temples following the separation of Shinto and Buddhism during the Meiji Restoration. It was originally the Kannon Hall of the shrine-temple complex. It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. According to legend, it was founded in the 4th century by Ragyō Shōnin, a monk from India.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

The temple's history is intertwined with the worship of Nachi Waterfall. The temple was purposely built near Nachi Falls, where it may have previously been a site of nature worship. The temple buildings were burned down by Oda Nobunaga during the civil wars of the 16th century. The Nyorindō (Main Temple) was rebuilt in 1587 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

One of the most striking features of Seiganto-ji is the three-story pagoda that stands with Nachi Waterfall in the background. The vivid red-lacquered pagoda stands out beautifully against the backdrop of Nachi Falls. We climbed to the top of the pagoda (for 500 yen), admiring the sacred Buddhist statues and taking in the panoramic views of the falls and the Pacific Ocean. Inside the pagoda, there are a number of important treasures, including an image of Senjū Kannon as a manifestation of Hiro Gongen. It was a perfect spot for contemplation, blending the beauty of nature with the serenity of religious architecture. The temple is dedicated to the goddess of mercy (Kannon) and belongs to one of the three centers of the Kumano faith.

A Taste of Local Flavors and Farewell to Nachi

For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. After a satisfying meal, we explored the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, a charming place that serves as both a souvenir store and a dessert shop. We picked up a few small gifts for our families back in Berlin, choosing items that reflected the local culture and craftsmanship. Lena found a beautiful hand-painted fan, while I opted for some locally made sweets.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to our accommodation, reflecting on the experiences we had. The weather in Kumano Kodo in May is generally mild, with highs around 20°C, and lows between 14-17°C. We were lucky to have a mix of sunny and cloudy periods during our journey.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha and the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. I am looking forward to continuing our exploration of this fascinating region and sharing more stories with you all.

Our day concluded with dinner at Kakinoate. It was the perfect way to end our day of exploring Nachi Waterfall and Seiganto-ji Temple.

As I sit here, writing this entry, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and spirituality of Kumano Kodo with my wife. It’s moments like these that make all the planning and preparation worthwhile. I am also grateful that I did not forget my camera, even though I forgot the sunscreen and portable water bottle. I am looking forward to what tomorrow brings. Perhaps I will invest in sunscreen at the Nachisan Tourist Center.