Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Demons and Prayers by the Sea

Today was a day of dramatic contrasts, where the raw power of nature met the profound tranquility of ancient spirituality. Leaving behind the serene mountainscapes of Koya, Lena and I ventured closer to the coast, ready to explore the rugged beauty and historical depth of the Kumano region. It’s amazing how much the landscape can shift in such a short distance, and I was eager to capture it all through my lens.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. It was a great way to fuel up before delving into the day’s adventures. The local flavors and warm hospitality set a positive tone, reminding me of the simple joys of travel and good food. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of the dishes back in Berlin – Lena would certainly appreciate a taste of Kumano in our kitchen.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

Onigajō Cliff: Where Demons Once Roamed

Our first stop was the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. The name itself, translating to “Demon’s Castle,” hinted at the dramatic landscape we were about to encounter. As we approached, the sheer scale of the cliffs became apparent. Jagged rocks, carved by centuries of relentless waves and wind, stretched along the coastline, creating a scene of almost otherworldly beauty.


Discover the breathtaking Onigajō Cliff in Kumano, a stunning natural monument offering panoramic coastal views and serene hiking trails amidst rich cultural heritage.

Walking along the well-maintained path that snaked along the cliff face, I couldn't help but imagine the legends associated with this place. It’s said that pirates, or demons, once inhabited these caves, adding a layer of mystique to the already impressive natural formations. The views of the Kumano Sea were breathtaking, the vast expanse of water meeting the rugged coastline in a symphony of crashing waves and sea breeze. I could almost picture the battles of ancient times, the clash between man and nature, the struggle for survival in this harsh yet beautiful environment.

Nature itself is the most exquisite artist.

Lena, ever the architect, was fascinated by the geological formations, pointing out the various layers of rock and the effects of erosion over time. I tried my hand at capturing the scene with my camera, but no photograph could truly convey the immensity and power of Onigajō. We spent a good couple of hours exploring the cliffs, taking in the panoramic views, and simply marveling at the forces of nature that had shaped this landscape.

For lunch, we stopped at the Onigajō cliff Center. It was a convenient spot to grab a bite and reflect on the morning’s exploration. The center also had a display of a massive firework ball, a nod to the area's famed firework performances.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.

Fudarakusan-ji: A Journey to Paradise

In the afternoon, we sought a different kind of experience at Fudarakusan-ji. This ancient Tendai temple, nestled in Nachikatsuura, offered a stark contrast to the wildness of Onigajō. As we stepped through the temple gates, a sense of serenity washed over us. The air was still and quiet, the only sounds the gentle rustling of leaves and the distant chirping of birds.


Explore the tranquility of Fudarakusan-ji, a beautiful Buddhist temple in Wakayama, Japan, where spirituality meets stunning natural landscapes.

Fudarakusan-ji is renowned for its history of Fudaraku Tokai, a practice where monks would set out to sea in small, coffin-like boats, seeking the Buddhist paradise of Fudaraku. This act of devotion, a journey into the unknown, was both awe-inspiring and unsettling. The temple itself was small, but it held a profound sense of history and spirituality.

We visited the pavilion that housed a replica of the boat used in the Fudaraku Tokai ritual. It was a sobering sight, a reminder of the sacrifices made in the pursuit of enlightenment. I imagined the monks, setting sail with unwavering faith, entrusting themselves to the mercy of the sea. It was a powerful testament to the human spirit, the yearning for something beyond the material world.

As someone who grew up in Foumban, a town steeped in artistic traditions and spiritual practices, I felt a deep connection to the history of Fudarakusan-ji. It reminded me of the importance of faith, the search for meaning, and the enduring power of the human spirit. Lena, who often finds solace in the clean lines and purposeful design of architecture, appreciated the temple’s simple yet elegant structure, finding a sense of peace in its understated beauty.

Evening Reflections and Culinary Delights

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a meal at Hinoki Steak House. After a day of exploring cliffs and temples, a hearty steak seemed like the perfect way to end the day. The restaurant had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the aroma of grilled meat filled the air. I opted for the Kumano beef steak, wanting to savor the local flavors. It was cooked to perfection, tender and juicy, a true delight for the senses. Lena chose a seafood dish, equally impressed with the freshness and quality of the ingredients.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

After dinner, we ventured to Wine Kumano a local bar known for its selection of natural wines. It was a cozy spot, perfect for unwinding after a long day. We sampled a couple of different wines, chatting with the friendly owner about the local culture and the best places to visit in the area. It was a relaxing end to a day filled with contrasts – the ruggedness of Onigajō, the serenity of Fudarakusan-ji, and the simple pleasures of good food and good company.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

As I write this, back in our cozy accommodation, I can’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences of today. The Kumano region has a unique charm, a blend of natural beauty and spiritual depth that is both captivating and humbling.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Yunomine Onsen and Kumano Kodo Park [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. I’m particularly excited about Yunomine Onsen, one of the oldest hot springs in Japan, and the opportunity to soak in its healing waters. I’m also looking forward to delving deeper into the history and significance of the Kumano Kodo trails. It’s a journey of discovery, both outward and inward, and I’m eager to see what tomorrow brings.

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” I feel like each day on the Kumano Kodo is a step further into understanding myself and the world around me. With Lena by my side, I know this pilgrimage will be an experience we’ll cherish for years to come. I'm also glad that I remembered to pack my light rain jacket, just in case the weather decides to take a turn. However, I wish I hadn't forgotten the sunscreen. The sun was quite strong today and I can already feel my skin getting a bit sensitive. Oh well, lesson learned!

Good night from Kumano!