Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Reflections on Renewal and Tradition

Today was a beautiful blend of relaxation, exploration, and cultural immersion. As we continue our journey through Kumano Kodo, I'm finding that each day brings a new layer of appreciation for this region's serene beauty and deep-rooted history. It's amazing how a place can simultaneously offer tranquility and a sense of adventure.



Our day began with a delightful breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Lena and I were eager to try their famous bagels made with natural yeast, and they did not disappoint. The cozy atmosphere and the friendly staff made it a perfect start to our day. I appreciated the owner’s story of moving from Tokyo to embrace the quiet nature of Kumano; it’s a sentiment I can understand more and more as we spend time in this peaceful area.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After breakfast, we headed to Yunomine Onsen, a place steeped in history and known as one of the oldest hot spring areas in Japan. The village itself is incredibly charming, with traditional buildings nestled along a small river. Our main destination was Yuzutsu, a unique communal cooking spot where hot spring water bubbles out of the ground at a scorching 90°C.


Experience the therapeutic waters of Yunomine Onsen in Wakayama, where nature and tradition meet for a rejuvenating retreat.

We bought some eggs from a nearby shop and joined the locals in boiling them in the mineral-rich water. It was fascinating to watch how everyone shared stories and laughter while waiting for their eggs to cook. The eggs, once ready, had a unique, subtle flavor imparted by the hot spring water – a truly memorable snack. Lena, ever the architect, was particularly interested in the way the town utilized the natural hot spring for everyday life, a brilliant example of sustainable living in harmony with nature. I made a mental note to share this with my colleagues back in Berlin; it’s always inspiring to see how different cultures approach problem-solving with such ingenuity.

Sometimes, the simplest experiences offer the most profound connections to a place and its people.

Next on our itinerary was Kumano Kodo Park, a place dedicated to preserving and showcasing the natural and cultural heritage of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails. We spent a few hours exploring the park's trails, which wind through lush forests and offer stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The park does an excellent job of explaining the history and significance of the Kumano Kodo, providing context for the spiritual journey that pilgrims have undertaken for centuries. As someone who enjoys history, I found the exhibits fascinating, especially the stories of emperors and commoners alike traversing these paths in search of enlightenment.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Kumano Kodo Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in nature and spirituality in Wakayama, Japan.

Lena, with her keen eye for detail, pointed out the intricate stonework along the trails and the subtle ways in which the natural environment has been preserved. It's these small details that often go unnoticed but contribute so much to the overall experience. We even encountered a group of local students on a field trip, and it was heartwarming to see their enthusiasm for their region’s heritage.


For lunch, we stopped at Fushiogami Teahouse, a delightful spot known for its panoramic views and traditional Japanese fare. The teahouse is located at a strategic point on the Kumano Kodo, offering the first glimpse of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine in the distance. Pilgrims would traditionally fall to their knees and pray at this spot, a tradition that gives the teahouse its name. We enjoyed a simple yet satisfying meal of soba noodles and tempura, savoring each bite while taking in the breathtaking scenery. The peaceful atmosphere was conducive to reflection, and we spent some time discussing our experiences on the Kumano Kodo thus far.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

In the late afternoon, we made a stop at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. While primarily a souvenir shop, it offered a glimpse into local crafts and products. I picked up a few small gifts for my family back in Berlin, including some Nachi Kuro, a brown sugar candy shaped like Go stones. Lena found a beautiful handcrafted scarf, the intricate design reflecting the natural patterns of the surrounding forests. We also sampled some local ice cream, a refreshing treat after a day of hiking.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

Our final stop for the day was Kakinoate for dinner. This sushi restaurant near the entrance of the Hayatama Taisha shrine is known for its traditional and unique persimmon leaf sushi. Though I am not the biggest fan of sushi, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try this local specialty. The subtle flavor of the persimmon leaf infused the rice and fish with a delicate sweetness, creating a surprisingly harmonious blend. Lena, who appreciates sushi more than I do, thoroughly enjoyed the meal, praising the freshness of the ingredients and the chef’s skillful preparation. The restaurant had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly, making our dining experience all the more enjoyable.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As we head back to our accommodation, I can’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we shared today. From the healing waters of Yunomine Onsen to the ancient paths of Kumano Kodo Park, each moment has been a reminder of the beauty and tranquility that can be found in simplicity. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Tsubo-yu and Inabaneoji Shrine, continuing our exploration of this fascinating region. I’m particularly excited about Tsubo-yu, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the few hot springs in the world that you can actually bathe in.


Before drifting off to sleep, I thought about the contrasting landscapes I’ve experienced in my life – from the bustling streets of Foumban to the serene trails of Kumano Kodo. Each place has its own unique charm, and each has shaped me in different ways. But there’s something particularly special about this journey, a sense of peace and connection that I haven’t felt in a long time. Perhaps it’s the combination of nature, history, and spirituality, or perhaps it’s simply the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the present moment. Whatever it is, I’m grateful for the experience and eager to see what tomorrow brings.