Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and gentle exploration as Lena and I continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. It was a day to absorb the history and spirituality of this ancient pilgrimage route, allowing the past to speak to us through the stones and the rustling leaves. We found ourselves drawn into the stories of those who walked these paths before us, seeking solace, enlightenment, and connection.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase Onsen Cafe. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the spiritual heart of Kumano. The cafe was a delightful start to the day, offering a mix of traditional Japanese and Western options, ensuring we were ready for the day's adventures.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Our first destination was Oyunohara, the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha. The sheer scale of the *Otorii* gate, the largest Torii gate in the world, was breathtaking. Standing beneath it, I felt a profound sense of entering a sacred space, a division between the secular and spiritual worlds. Lena and I took our time here, wandering around the expansive grounds, trying to imagine the grand shrine that once stood here before the devastating flood of 1889. It’s hard to believe that this tranquil sandbank was once the epicentre of Kumano pilgrimage.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a revered Shinto shrine and the starting point of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.

The echoes of history resonate deeply in Oyunohara, reminding us of the cyclical nature of destruction and renewal, loss and remembrance.

The silence was broken only by the gentle breeze and the distant sound of the river, creating an atmosphere of profound peace. I reflected on the resilience of the human spirit, how the shrine was rebuilt, albeit in a new location, carrying forward the legacy of Kumano. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of preserving our cultural heritage, honoring the past while embracing the future. I found myself thinking about Foumban, my hometown, and the efforts to preserve its rich artistic traditions. It’s a universal desire, this need to keep our stories alive.

From Oyunohara, we made our way to the Fushiogami Teahouse. The walk itself was a journey through picturesque landscapes, with glimpses of terraced fields and tea plantations. As we approached the teahouse, the panoramic views of the valley below and the distant Kumano Hongu Taisha were simply stunning.


Experience tranquility and authentic Japanese tea culture at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe, Wakayama, a perfect retreat for every traveler.

The Fushiogami Teahouse itself was a charming, rustic spot, run by local ladies offering handmade snacks and coffee. We sat outside, sipping on hot tea and savouring the moment. The air was crisp and clean, and the atmosphere was one of serene tranquility. I couldn’t help but think of Lena’s architectural designs, her ability to blend modern aesthetics with natural surroundings, creating spaces that are both functional and beautiful. This teahouse, in its simplicity, embodied that same philosophy.

Lena and I chatted with some fellow pilgrims, sharing stories and experiences. It struck me how this journey, the Kumano Kodo, brings together people from all walks of life, united by a common desire for something deeper, something more meaningful. It’s a reminder that despite our differences, we are all connected, all searching for our own path to enlightenment.

For lunch, we stopped at Takehara. The restaurant is known for its fresh seafood. Lena and I shared a selection of tuna dishes, each one a testament to the local culinary traditions. The meal was a delightful sensory experience, a perfect complement to the day’s spiritual explorations. It reminded me of the vibrant food markets in Berlin, where we often explore new ingredients and flavours together.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

Our final meal of the day was at Kumagoro. The restaurant offered a cozy atmosphere, perfect for winding down after a day of walking and reflection. We enjoyed a hearty meal, savoring the local flavors and reflecting on our experiences.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Before dinner, we also visited the Kumano Kodo Information Center, hoping to learn more about the trails and the history of the region. The center provided a wealth of information in English, making it easy to understand the significance of the sites we were visiting. I was particularly interested in the exhibits about the dual pilgrim recognition for those who have completed both the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo. Perhaps that’s a challenge for another year!


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the mountains, we made our way back to our accommodation, our hearts full of gratitude and peace. Today was a reminder that the journey is just as important as the destination, and that the true treasures are found in the quiet moments of reflection and connection.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our pilgrimage. We plan to visit the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center and Third Place Kumano Kodo before beginning our journey back to Berlin. While I am looking forward to returning home, I know that a part of me will remain here, on these ancient trails, forever changed by the spirit of Kumano. As we prepare to leave, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we’ve shared and the lessons we’ve learned. The Kumano Kodo has been more than just a hike; it has been a journey of self-discovery, a pilgrimage of the soul. Perhaps we will buy Otonashi-cha tea at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu.

Good night from Japan!