Solo Exploration of Leh: A Journey Through Culture and History

Spiritual Sanctuaries and Savory Secrets

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of the serene and the savory, the ancient and the aromatic. Leh continues to surprise me with its ability to offer both profound spiritual experiences and delightful culinary adventures. It's a place where the echoes of history resonate in the wind, and the flavors of tradition dance on your palate.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Tsas by Dolkhar. The restaurant's name, I learned, means 'kitchen garden' in Ladakhi, and it certainly lived up to its name. Everything was incredibly fresh and locally sourced. I opted for a traditional Ladakhi breakfast, including butter tea and some local bread. The butter tea, or *gur gur cha*, was definitely an experience. It’s salty and rich, quite different from the teas Sophie and I enjoy back in Montreal, but it warmed me from the inside out, preparing me for the day's explorations.


Discover Tsas by Dolkhar: A delightful restaurant and bar in Leh serving authentic Ladakhi cuisine amidst stunning mountain views.

Fueled up, I set off to visit Likir Gompa. The monastery is about 52 kilometers west of Leh, and the drive itself was stunning. The landscape transformed into a canvas of rugged mountains and vast open spaces. As I approached Likir, perched on a small hill overlooking lush green agricultural fields, I was immediately struck by its fortress-like appearance.


Explore the tranquil beauty and spiritual heritage of Likir Gompa, a stunning Buddhist monastery nestled in the Himalayas.

Likir Gompa, also referred to as Likir Gompa, is one of the most revered spiritual sites in Ladakh. Founded in the 11th century by Lama Duwang Chosje, under the direction of King Lhachen Gyalpo, it belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery has a rich history, having been rebuilt in the 18th century after a fire. Inside, the *Dukhang* (assembly hall) houses numerous statues of Buddha and other deities, adorned with *thangkas* and murals.

I spent a good hour wandering through the complex, admiring the intricate artwork and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. The most striking feature was the 23-meter (75 feet) high statue of Maitreya Buddha covered in gold. It's an imposing sight, radiating serenity and compassion. I reflected on the stories my grandfather used to tell me about the ancient Incas and their reverence for nature and the spirit world. There's a similar sense of connection to something larger than oneself in places like Likir. The architecture of Likir Monastery is a classic example of a fortress-type monastery. The Gompa has two assembly halls, a temple, a museum, and monk quarters. The halls contain statues of Amitabha, Maitreya, Bodhisattva, Sakyamuni, and Tsong Khapa.

Leaving Likir, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. My next stop was Phyang Monastery, about 41 km away. Phyang Monastery, also known as Phyang Gompa, is another beautiful and historically significant Buddhist monastery in the Leh district. Founded in 1515 by Chosje Damma Kunga during the reign of King Jamyang Namgyal, it belongs to the Drikung Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery sits on a hilltop, offering captivating views of the surrounding village and mountains.


Explore Phyang Monastery in Ladakh, a serene Buddhist retreat known for its stunning architecture and rich cultural heritage amidst breathtaking landscapes.

Phyang is not just a religious center but also a significant cultural and tourist destination in Ladakh. Inside, I found numerous sacred shrines, ancient murals dating from the royal period, and a collection of old *thangkas* and statues. The monastery's museum, though smaller than Likir's, held a rich collection of artifacts, including idols and weapons of Chinese, Tibetan, and Mongolian origin. I was particularly fascinated by the ancient murals, their vibrant colors still vivid after centuries.

Visiting these monasteries is like stepping back in time, a reminder of the enduring power of faith and the importance of preserving cultural heritage.

After a morning of spiritual exploration, my stomach was beginning to rumble. I headed back towards Leh for lunch at Rezangla Kitchen. This restaurant is known for its commitment to quality ingredients, delightful flavors, and exceptional service. I decided to try some traditional Ladakhi dishes, including *momos* and *thukpa*. The *momos* were juicy and flavorful, and the *thukpa* was a hearty noodle soup that warmed me right up. It was the perfect fuel for the afternoon ahead.


Discover authentic Ladakhi cuisine at Rezangla Kitchen in Leh - where every dish celebrates local traditions and flavors.

With renewed energy, I decided to indulge in a bit of shopping at Zanskar Arts. This store is a treasure trove of local handicrafts, pashmina shawls, and woolen goods. I was particularly drawn to the pashmina shawls, their softness and intricate designs a testament to the skill of the local artisans. I ended up buying a beautiful shawl for Sophie, a reminder of my journey and a way to bring a piece of Ladakh back to Montreal. I also picked up a small, hand-carved wooden figure for Mateo, hoping it would spark his curiosity about different cultures and traditions.


Discover the exquisite craftsmanship of Ladakh at Zanskar Arts, home to vibrant pashmina shawls, unique carpets, and authentic handicrafts.

As evening approached, I made my way to Karim's Leh Ladakh for dinner. This restaurant is a branch of the famous Karim's in Delhi, known for its Mughlai and Kashmiri cuisine. The restaurant is located on the third floor of Mengon Shopping Complex, offering a pleasant view of the bustling street below. I started with some *seekh kebabs*, succulent and flavorful, followed by a rich and aromatic mutton biryani. The biryani was different from what I’m used to, but in a good way. The spices were perfectly balanced, and the mutton was tender and juicy. For dessert, I couldn't resist trying the *kheer*, a creamy rice pudding that was the perfect ending to a satisfying meal. The staff was attentive and courteous, adding to the overall positive experience.


Experience authentic Ladakhi cuisine at Karim's Leh Ladakh - a family-friendly restaurant offering delightful meals with stunning mountain views.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I took a stroll through the Leh Market, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and the sounds of the city winding down for the night. The air was crisp and cool, and the stars were beginning to emerge, creating a magical ambiance.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Alchi Monastery and Sumda Chun Monastery, venturing further into the cultural heartland of Ladakh. I might even check out the Jah roots bar in the evening for a taste of local nightlife. But for now, I'm content to reflect on a day of spiritual enrichment and culinary delights, grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and diversity of Leh. I am already looking forward to breakfast at Madras - Cafe & Restaurant, lunch at Dreamland Restaurant and Dinner at Bon Appetit.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am reminded of a quote from my grandfather, which seems particularly apt for this journey:

The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.

And I, for one, am eager to turn the page and discover what adventures tomorrow will bring.

The blend of history, spirituality, and local flavors makes Leh a unique destination. I am already anticipating what new wonders await me tomorrow.