Solo Historical and Cultural Exploration in Kanazawa

Echoes of Edo and Contemporary Visions

Today, I journeyed through time and art in Kanazawa, a city that beautifully marries its historical roots with a vibrant contemporary scene. From the serene samurai district of Nagamachi to the thought-provoking exhibits at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa, it was a day of contrasts and harmonies.

My day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Fuwari. It was a delightful start, fueling me for the day's explorations. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the meal was a perfect introduction to the local flavors.

Venturing into the Nagamachi district was like stepping back into the Edo period. The well-preserved streets, with their earthen walls and narrow lanes, whispered stories of samurai and their families who once resided here. The area was once the residential district for the city's samurai. It's a lovely area of canals and stone-flagged winding lanes that run between tile-topped earthern walls. The craftsmanship in the architecture was evident, reminding me of the dedication to detail I often see in my restoration work back in Montreal. The way the light played on the earthen walls was particularly captivating.

I made my way to the Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence. This restored samurai house offered a glimpse into the lives of a high-ranking samurai family. Walking through the rooms, I admired the traditional interiors and the artifacts on display. The craftsmanship was impeccable, a testament to the skills of the artisans of that era.

Exploring Kanazawa is like peeling back layers of time, revealing a rich tapestry of history and art.

The garden at the Nomura Residence was a highlight. Despite its small size, it was meticulously designed with a stream, a waterfall, and carefully placed rocks. The serene atmosphere invited contemplation, a perfect contrast to the bustling city outside. I could easily imagine spending hours here, lost in thought and appreciating the beauty of nature.

Leaving Nagamachi, I headed towards the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. The museum's modern architecture stood in stark contrast to the traditional buildings I had just visited. Its circular design and glass walls created a sense of openness and accessibility. The museum is designed so that anyone can easily walk in. The museum is famous for its installation of Leandro Erlich's 'Swimming Pool'.

Inside, I explored the various exhibitions, each offering a unique perspective on contemporary art. The Material Fever exhibition caught my attention with its innovative use of materials and its exploration of physical properties. The exhibits showed works by both Japanese and international artists, including a permanent collection and special/temporary exhibitions. Some displays disrupted the viewer's perception by revealing physical laws that are normally invisible.

For lunch, I chose Kifune, enticed by its reputation for Kaiseki cuisine. The restaurant is very popular. The lunch set was more affordable compared to the dinner course. The restaurant features a beautiful space in a renovated old house from the Taisho era. The dishes were a work of art, each ingredient carefully selected and beautifully presented. The flavors were subtle yet complex, a testament to the chef's skill and dedication.

In the late afternoon, I returned to Nagamachi for a more in-depth exploration. I visited the Nagamachi Yuzenkan, a silk painting workshop open to the public. The narrow streets have retained their old-fashioned charm. I learned that the Nagamachi district has escaped severe fire damage throughout the Edo period (1603–1867) and to this day, which is why it exists in a rare state of preservation. I also explored the Nagamachi district's water channel system.

As evening approached, I decided to experience Kanazawa's nightlife at Kohaku Bar. This small, intimate bar specialized in whiskey and custom cocktails. The bartender was incredibly kind and courteous. The ambiance was cozy and inviting, with a touch of sophistication. It was a perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.

For dinner, I decided to try Dining Tsuzumi, located in Hotel Kanazawa. The restaurant served dishes that are particular about local ingredients such as seafood caught in the Sea of Japan, brand-name meat from Noto, and Kaga vegetables. The dinner course featured a selection of appetizers, soups, and main dishes, each highlighting the region's culinary heritage. The flavors were rich and satisfying, a perfect ending to a day of cultural immersion.

As I walked back to my hotel, I thought about the contrasts I had experienced throughout the day. The historical charm of Nagamachi and the modern creativity of the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. The traditional flavors of Kifune and the contemporary twist at Dining Tsuzumi. It was a day that showcased the many facets of Kanazawa, a city that embraces both its past and its future.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve deeper into Kanazawa's cultural heritage with visits to Myouryuji (Ninja Temple), the D.T. Suzuki Museum, and Oyama Shrine. I'm also looking forward to exploring the Ishikawa Local Products Center for some local crafts and souvenirs. Good night, Kanazawa!