Exploring the Ausangate Trek: A Journey through Peru's Andean Wonders

A Day of Fiery Landscapes and Soothing Springs

Today was a day of stark contrasts, a vivid tapestry woven with the fiery hues of the Valle Rojo and the soothing embrace of Upis Qocha. Leaving the familiar comforts of Cusco felt like stepping into another world, one where the earth itself seemed to breathe with ancient secrets. I couldn't wait to share this with you all.

Our day began with an early breakfast at Crepería & Backpacker La Bo'M. The hostel was in the artistic neighborhood of San Blas. I opted for a hearty crepe filled with local cheeses and avocado, fueling up for the adventures that awaited. The atmosphere was cozy and welcoming, and the staff incredibly warm. It's the kind of place where you instantly feel at home, surrounded by fellow travelers eager to share their stories. I made a mental note to bring Greta and Leila here someday; they'd love the vibe and the delicious crepes.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off towards the Valle Rojo, also known as Pitumarca. The drive itself was a visual feast, the landscape transforming from the bustling city streets to rolling hills dotted with small villages. As we climbed higher into the Andes, the air grew crisp and thin, a stark reminder of the altitude.

The Valle Rojo, living up to its name, unfolded before us in a panorama of red. Mountains, hills, and plains stretched as far as the eye could see, painted in shades of crimson, rust, and ochre. The unique coloration is due to the oxidation and sedimentation of minerals over millions of years, a geological masterpiece sculpted by time and nature. I felt like I had stepped onto the surface of Mars, the landscape so otherworldly and surreal.

The earth has music for those who listen.

We hiked through the valley, the crunch of the earth beneath our boots the only sound besides the wind whistling through the peaks. The views were simply breathtaking, and I tried to capture as much as I could with my camera, but no photo could truly do justice to the sheer scale and beauty of this place. Even my trusty camera couldn't fully capture the experience, something I had forgotten to bring an extra memory card for! It was a humbling reminder of how small we are in the face of such grandeur.

After immersing ourselves in the fiery landscapes of Valle Rojo, we journeyed onward to Upis Qocha. The contrast was striking: from the arid, Martian-like terrain to a serene oasis of thermal springs nestled in the shadow of the Ausangate mountain. Upis Qocha, whose name in Quechua signifies an abundance of water, is considered a sacred place where waters spring from the depths of Pachamama, Mother Earth. The springs are fed by the geothermal activity of the Vilcanota mountain range.

Before our soak, we made a stop for lunch at Hacienda Huayoccari. This hidden gem in the Sacred Valley is a must-visit for anyone seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. Tucked away in a lush, vegetation-filled private estate, the hacienda houses a private collection of pre-Colombian, Incan, and colonial artifacts. We enjoyed a welcome pisco sour while browsing the interesting museum before heading into the dining area.

Lunch was a hearty, traditional Andean fare with ingredients sourced locally from their own farm and other local farms. I savored every bite, feeling the warmth of the food and the hospitality of the staff seep into my bones. It was a truly immersive cultural experience, a glimpse into the heart of Peruvian heritage.

With our bellies full and our spirits renewed, we finally arrived at Upis Qocha. The thermal springs were a welcome sight, the promise of relaxation drawing us closer. We changed into our swimwear and eased ourselves into the warm, mineral-rich waters. The air was crisp and cool, but the water was deliciously warm, enveloping us in a soothing embrace.

As I soaked in the springs, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Andes, I felt a sense of peace wash over me. The stress of daily life melted away, replaced by a profound connection to nature. It was a moment of pure bliss, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life. The springs themselves ranged in size, some accommodating only a few people, offering a more intimate experience.

Our final stop of the day was a quick visit to EKEKOS SAN BLAS -art & COLORS. I was hoping to find a unique souvenir for Greta and Leila, something that would capture the essence of our journey. The shop was a treasure trove of local crafts, and I spent some time browsing the colorful textiles and ceramics. I finally settled on a beautiful hand-painted ceramic figure, a whimsical reminder of the vibrant culture and artistry of Peru.

For dinner, we found ourselves at Cafeteria Inkaterra. The building reminded me of something you might find in the snowy peaks of Austria. The Cafeteria Inkaterra blends Andean cuisine and classic architecture with a contemporary approach. The food was tasty and well-cooked, and the service just right.

As I reflect on the day, I'm filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience such incredible landscapes and immerse myself in the rich culture of Peru. The Valle Rojo and Upis Qocha are two gems that I will carry with me long after this trek is over.

Tomorrow, we continue our adventure, venturing towards Rumicolca and the Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum. I'm excited to delve deeper into the history and culture of this fascinating region, and I can't wait to share my discoveries with you all. Before that, though, maybe a quick stop at Mamacha Papita for breakfast?

Aloha,
Kai